Float Pin Wont Come Out

[mjpxs11sh]

ive read the posts/threads about getting the float pin out, but i cant budge it loose enough to try to get dykes in there to get it to free up. its soaking with PB Blaster. the pin head is tight and flat against the post. the carbs arent even dirty. they look new inside, but ive got the good ole fuel leak into airbox on #2. paranoid about breaking the post.

[James England]

Use tin snips.... wire clippers. Place the jaws in between the flat head and the post and just squeeze the clippers. Usually this gets the pin moving. If pliers won't go between the pin and the post, get a pair of normal pliers and grip the round part of pin (pliers at 90 degrees to it) and rotate firmly. All mine came out this way..

[latexeses]

Ken Talbot built a sweet little tool for removing a stuck float pin.

Do a search for "stuck float pin", grab a beer and start reading!

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...tuck+float+pin

Be careful whatever you do. I have been lucky and none of the carbs I have broken down have had a stuck pin so I am a poor source of advice.

[CaptonZap]

While I will agree that the tool shown in the quoted post is a gem, when faced with the stuck pin problem last time, I came up with a tool that is easier to fabricate. IF, you have a pair of tin snips and some 22 to 16 ga metal.
The thing you are trying to do is to be able to push on the pin and not have one post move toward the other. The solution is a piece of sheet metal, cut with just a small amount of taper, that can be inserted between the two posts. Then, with a pair of channel locks, you put one jaw on the side of the post that has the head, and the other jaw on the protruding end of the pin. As you squeeze the jaws together, the force is transferred from the end of the pin, to the post, through the tapered metal to the other post, and then the pin is pushed out. You can see that you have to position the jaw on the headed side so that the head of the pin can slip past it.
The taper of the sheet metal should be no more than 2 or three degrees. Think of a wedge with just percept able taper. The end can be cut off so that the metal doesn't interfere with the float stuff.
Once you get the pins unstuck, you can use the usual methods for removing them, and DON'T drive them in that far when you reassemble them. As has been noted, they can't come out when they are covered by the bowl.
If you aren't in a hurry, PM me and for the price of a self addressed, stamped envelope, I'll make you a piece of tin and send it to you. The old tinner, CZ

[DGXSER]

I built the tool using a piece of aluminum angle 2"x2". Worked great for me. I had an entire set with very stuck float pins.

[natemoen]

Heat the the post a bit and twist the pin to break it free.

I had a set of '81 carbs that were really gummed up, heated and twisted the pins a few times, you could see the old dried up gas start to bubble out of the hole, and as I twists I pulled the pin out. All 4 came out like butter.

Then I ground off the shoulder so they don't hold themselves in.

[brcree]

pin

MJ....I've used an old dart tip, remove the flight holder end and with a small hammer tapping lightly has worked. Heating the pin up first will help as stated.

[mjpxs11sh]

thanx all. the head side is so thin i cant get any tool to slide behind it. a razor blade width is all there is, but not strong enough. ill try heating it and give it another shot. i have a variety of tools, but havent found the right one yet. had to step away for a awhile before i broke the post.

[fredintoon]

Hi 11sh,
a spring loaded (automatic) centrepunch applied to the pin's tail has always worked for me and it minimizes the risk of damaging the pivot post.
And James, "dykes" ain't what you might think, it's USspeak for sidecutters.

[mjpxs11sh]

yeah Fred, i USED to have a gold colored one. i probably need to give it a good whack, but a busted post would be worse than what i got. i call em dykes too, and have neighbor man haters too!

[fredintoon]

yeah Fred, i USED to have a gold colored one. i probably need to give it a good whack, but a busted post would be worse than what i got.

Hi 11sh,
best you go buy another one, eh? I'd say the pin don't need a good whack so much as a precise one and a spring punch is the best tool I know of to do that and not transfer extra force to the pin post.
FYI calling a sidecutter a dykes is unknown in the UK and seldom done in Canada. Same as a Brit asking a North American for a Mole wrench. (UK name for a vise-grip)

[mjpxs11sh]

update: i re-carb cleaned and blew them out with the needle/seat still in and to my surprise, it seems they reseated. they held pressure when i blew into the fuel line.
id still like to take them out and clean em all, because of the screens, to satisfy my curiousity. i dont think those can be blown out. PM'd KT about his custom made tool and may go that route. thanx for all replies

Michael

[Rasputin]

I built this and It worked really good for exactly what you describe.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30036

[skids]

I built this and It worked really good for exactly what you describe.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30036

How did I miss that thread? Nice device. The center spacer is the critical component!