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No Spark, Rewired Handle controls, and changed stator coil

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  • #16
    Update.... The bike will start and run when the starter is jumpered with a screwdriver and the atarter is running with the bike the but onlywhen the atarter is running..this must be in my wiring but I dint know where it could be

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    • #17
      sounds like it could be a ballast resistor fault,
      but im not sure if they were fitted to the 80 model
      bike, if they are i think its situated under the tank on the left
      side of the frame, disconnect the resistor and join the wires
      together, i think they are red/white wires, if im wrong im sure
      some1 will correct me.

      the other wires in the headlight bracket u mentioned sound like the turn
      signal wires for the front blinkers.
      pete


      new owner of
      08 gen2 hayabusa


      former owner
      1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
      zrx carbs
      18mm float height
      145 main jets
      38 pilots
      slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
      fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

      [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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      • #18
        ok, i found out part of the wire issue, down the line two wires were melted together shorting out to the brake light, fixed the starting and running issue by separating and rewiring the connections but nowwhen plugged up the brake light will not shut off even when the switch is disconnected, can this be a short in the reserve lighting system???

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        • #19
          No, the RLU only deals with the headlight, well, provided your wiring is correct anyway.

          The brake light is its own circuit and simply gets power form either brake switch.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

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          • #20
            I i will check the back switch because I am sure the front is correct

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            • #21
              update... the rear switch was out so i disconnected and replaced everything is working great!!! Thanks for the quik replies, here are the pix that were requested...




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              • #22
                This may be the answer I've been looking for!

                Hey, this sounds like the exact same problem I'm having, but I'm electronically retarded, so I'm hoping that I can get some help on this while it's still a fresh topic.

                I also have an '80 SG that turns over, but doesn't spark. It just quit while I was riding. Fortunately, I was only a block away from a friend's house when it happened! Anyway, the headlight doesn't turn on with the key, but does come on when it turns over. From what I've read, this would be correct, even though the bike hasn't technically "started" due to lack of spark. Is that right?

                Also, I noticed that the brake light comes on with the front brake, but not with the rear. That's what's making me think that this is the same problem. Is that what was happening on yours? If so, seeing as I'm practiacally schematically illiterate, could you upload some photos of which wires these are and where on the bike your melt together happened?

                I'm out of the country every other month, and unfortunately, I just left a few days ago, so it'll be a while before I can actually dig into the bike again.

                And, just out of curiosity and a slight interest in actually learning how the electrical system works, what causes the fused wires to prevent the bike from sparking? Take it easy on me though. If possible, explain it like you'd explain it to a 6 year old. Haha! Ok, ok, I'm selling myself a little short... More like a 7 year old.
                -Whatever it is, it's better in the wind.

                1980 XS1100SG - "Bluesy Suzy"
                -Oil cooler
                -TKAT Fork Brace
                -Drilled Airbox w/ K&N
                -Engine guards
                -Speed Bleeders
                -TC's blade fuse block (waiting to be installed)

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                • #23
                  You may have more than one problem. Did it quit running at the same time that the rear brake switch quit working? The rear brake switch is down in a dirty location, and can get gunked up to the point that it will not work. But that would not keep the bike from running. Did you check ALL the fuses? The one on the left side, and the three on the right? CZ
                  Last edited by CaptonZap; 07-31-2011, 08:15 PM.

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                  • #24
                    Honestly, I have no idea when the rear brake quit lighting up. When the whole bike quits running, you normally don't hit the rear brake very often after that, let alone look to see if the back lights up when you do.

                    When I checked, I disconnected, cleaned, and reconnected every fuse and wire connection I could find. That fixed a blinker problem I was having, and now absolutely everything lights up beautifully on the bike, except the brake light when the rear brake is pressed, and spark plugs don't spark. I could still ride with the brake light problem, but the lack of spark little harder to live without. That's why this thread struck my interest. In this case the two issues were connected.

                    As Justin said:
                    Originally posted by Justindrider View Post
                    ok, i found out part of the wire issue, down the line two wires were melted together shorting out to the brake light, fixed the starting and running issue by separating and rewiring the connections
                    I didn't go through and check every individual wire along its full length, nor do I even think I know where to start undertaking a task that size, but if Justin's bike wouldn't spark and he had rear brake light wires shorting out, and the bike started sparking again when he repaired those wires, that's what I going to assume is happening with mine. If not, I can dig through everything all over again, or tear my brother's runner apart and swap out one piece at a time until mine fires up ...but I don't think he'd be to happy about that, and the brake light wires seem like something quick to check, that I'd actually be able to repair.

                    I'm hoping that the simplest (to repair) solution is the right solution. It never has been in the past, but it's gotta be one of these times.

                    Justin, which two wires were the trouble makers on your bike, and where at in the wire were they shorting? I don't want to have to tear apart any more than necessary.
                    -Whatever it is, it's better in the wind.

                    1980 XS1100SG - "Bluesy Suzy"
                    -Oil cooler
                    -TKAT Fork Brace
                    -Drilled Airbox w/ K&N
                    -Engine guards
                    -Speed Bleeders
                    -TC's blade fuse block (waiting to be installed)

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      mine were shorting out from the wiring i had done and it was the start switch to a hot, with the brake problem the switch was getting stuck just before it cut the circut off there are green and brown wires just below the fusebox connecting to that switch

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