Cylinder holding bolt? vs stud bolt? - And anti-seize?

[KA1J]

I'm trying to figure out what is the difference between the Cylinder holding bolt vs the cylinder stud bolts? also, do I use anti-sieze on the larger crown nuts that hold down the cylinder head on the cylinders?

Looking on the parts diagram for the crankcase http://tinyurl.com/3rmsnpp I see number 8 ( Part Number: 2F3-11363-00-00 ) represents cylinder holding bolts. There are two of them. they are the nemesis I had to deal with getting my head & cylinders off; they had rusted terribly and the rust had impacted into the guides in the head & cylinders and I spent two hours getting the head off with a mallet and blocks of wood acting as a chisel.

I also see number 7 ( Part Number: 90116-10273-00 ) represents stud bolts and there are 8 of them.

One of the two number 8 (Cylinder holding bolts) bolts came out of the crankcase instead of the crown nut breaking free and would not come free and I needed to cut it in half to remove it from the head because of the rust buildup on the guides.

Looking at the existing cylinder holding bolt and the stud bolts, I don't see a difference. I was given as supply of assorted engine bolts & associated parts and have several extra of the shorter (number 7) stud bolts and maybe a cylinder holding bolt.

So...

What is the difference between them and how can I tell which is which?

On the crankcase end of the cylinder holding bolt, should I use anti-seize on the threads? Locktite? nothing?

And on the crown nuts at the top that I torque the head down with, do I use anti-seize or nothing on them?

I find it curious it was the cylinder holding bolts that rusted so. None of the 12 other studs had any rust at all on them.

Thanks!

[TADracer]

In answer to part of your question, I usually use anti-sieze for this but not because of worrying about acorn nuts seizing up like some of yours but more because you should clean and lubricate threads before you torque them. Most manuals call for applying a bit of motor oil to the threads but I find anti-sieze worke very well for lubricating threads before toqueing them.

Now on the other end of the stud (crank case end) you might want to torque the studs into the crank case at a bit more than the 25 pound/feet as spec'd for the acorn nuts or maybe apply a small bit of non-hardening thread locker. That way the studs will stay in the block next time you disassemble.

[KA1J]

Thanks for the info about the Anti-Seize & Locktite. I bought some "High strength" Locktite red today and will use that on the stud/"Cylinder holding bolt" and hopefully get the bike together; Assuming a "Cylinder holding bolt is exactly the same as the adjacent Stud Bolts of the same dimension.

Is it? None of the local dealers I have talked to have the foggiest clue what the difference is between a Cylinder holding bolt and a Stud bolt of the same dimensions beside it.

[KA1J]

Let me rephrase the question as I need to know the answer before I put the cylinder & head back on & I just want to get on with it.

Has anyone removed the crankcase studs and then put them back without keeping track of which stud came from which hole, just that the four long ones went to the outside and the eight shorter ones fit on the inside of the cylinders? If so did you have any engine issues after this that related to the head/cylinders?

My only issue is that I have to replace one "stud" and Yamaha says it is a "cylinder holding bolt" but it is no bolt, it is indeed a stud tightened by a large Acorn nut on the head, just like the other 11 on the head that torque the head, and I have replacement studs of the proper length but have no idea which hole they came from.

Thanks!