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Tale of Woe.

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  • #1

    Tale of Woe.

    So today did a little sync and got it running better but still having a little backfire out of cyl 4. Did a shakedown cruise and had it purring along about 3500 RPM and suddenly a terrible rattle from the top end. Shut it down and left it on the side of the road and went to find a friend with a trailer... Back home at midnight and pretty disgusted. Thinking it through - it sat outside for six years and probably had the outside intake valve open for years and it has been sticking since it started running again (explains backfire). Finally stuck on a hot engine and kissed the piston.
    I guess I'll pull the valve covers and see what the valves look like from the back side then pull the head. Can the head come off in the frame or is it best to remove engine? Some days it's best to stay in bed...
    When the horse is dead, dismount.

    Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.
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  • #2
    Well, that sucks....

    You can pull the top end off the motor with it in the frame, but if you holed a piston you'll want to pull it so you can flush it out good. Good luck....
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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    • #3
      Yup... the horse is dead and I have dismounted...
      When the horse is dead, dismount.

      Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

      Comment

      • #4
        I think you've identified the cause, exactly. I had an XS1100 earlier this year that set fire to the airbox. It had been standing for 10 years and I found an inlet valve (which had been in the open position for years) was rusted open..... I nearly lost the whole bike in my back yard...... The valve stem was crusted up with rust and locked solid......

        Bad luck
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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        • #5
          Oh well... After some sleep - looks like a great chance to dig in and learn more. I had clues that I should have followed - and serve as a warning to others with long-term outside storage issues... The valve clearance on #4 intake was .022 and that should have told me right there it was not closing all the way. The backfire - it blew the vacuum line off and stopped the fuel flow from the left petcock on my first ride. And finally the sync kept jumping around and could not get carb #4 right which I took to be a dirty pilot circuit. Live and learn. I guess "Lets get it on the highway and blow the cobwebs out" is not the best decision!
          When the horse is dead, dismount.

          Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

          Comment

          • #6
            James - What did you find when you pulled the head? Did the piston hit the valve? Was the cylinder damaged? Best case I'm hoping for is some new valves and scar on top of the piston... I've worked on truck engines that dropped valves - the valve would get hit and break off, then punch a hole in the head and crack the cyl wall. A chunk of valve would be molded into the piston top and all the antifreeze would pour out the exhaust and fill the crankcase... instant boat anchor. At least I didn't see any antifreeze!
            When the horse is dead, dismount.

            Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

            Comment

            • #7
              Reading the service manual it looks like it's not too bad to pull the cams and head. The tricky part seems to be keeping the timing chain from falling off the crank sprocket... I'm thinking lots of bungie cords! Does anyone have an opinion on the availability of a cylinder head? Are they super-scarce or am I better finding a parts engine? Has anyone had any luck getting their head worked over at a machine shop? Thanks for advice.
              When the horse is dead, dismount.

              Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

              Comment

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