Giving up on my XS1100H...

[Stepka]

So I have been fighting liaking carbs for at least 3 months and I have hit my breaking point. I have set the carbs to 81 specs, 80 specs and even 79 specs. These dam things are stressing me the hell out.

[Stepka]

Oops I miss spelled

[DGXSER]

First, is it the typical leaking out the air box, back of the carbs, and maybe into the crankcase? Or is the fuel leaking around the fuel Ts or the float bowls?

If its the typical spots, then one reason or another your float valves are not sealing. Could be floats, but the plastic ones that should be in your carbs are about indestructible.

Could be the O-rings around the seats, those are easy to replace by getting a set of nitrile o-rings at HF for about $5 or less and putitng new ones in there.

Could be the actual valves, you can new ones with new seats for not alot of money.

Now, I at one time had QUITE the time getting my carbs to quit leaking. Every time I installed them a different carb would leak. Sealed perfect on the bench, upside down and right side up. But mount them on the bike and one or more would leak. Ended up being the rubber auto style fuel line I was using. The soft rubber was getting shredded by the T fittings and little pieces of the rubber would get to the float valves and hold one open. I went to Home Depot and bought some Briggs and Stratton fuel line for a lawn mower, put that on and never had another problem with those float valves leaking.

Hopefully some of that helps you out. Ohh...and we do not count spelling here, that only counts in grade school.

[Stepka]

First, is it the typical leaking out the air box, back of the carbs, and maybe into the crankcase? Or is the fuel leaking around the fuel Ts or the float bowls?

If its the typical spots, then one reason or another your float valves are not sealing. Could be floats, but the plastic ones that should be in your carbs are about indestructible.

Could be the O-rings around the seats, those are easy to replace by getting a set of nitrile o-rings at HF for about $5 or less and putitng new ones in there.

Could be the actual valves, you can new ones with new seats for not alot of money.

Now, I at one time had QUITE the time getting my carbs to quit leaking. Every time I installed them a different carb would leak. Sealed perfect on the bench, upside down and right side up. But mount them on the bike and one or more would leak. Ended up being the rubber auto style fuel line I was using. The soft rubber was getting shredded by the T fittings and little pieces of the rubber would get to the float valves and hold one open. I went to Home Depot and bought some Briggs and Stratton fuel line for a lawn mower, put that on and never had another problem with those float valves leaking.

Hopefully some of that helps you out. Ohh...and we do not count spelling here, that only counts in grade school.

It leaks into the airbox, everything is new inside the float bowl and I have used clear plastic line with cone filters since I first rebuilt them. If I tap on the bowls with a rubber hammer they stop leaking but if I run the tank dry they leak again. I am going to work on them today and if they dont seal up, I may have to give up. It's gonna be hot as hell here in MN today so this should be fun with out any A/C in the garage. With me luck people, please chime in with anymore ideas.

[jetmechmarty]

One or more of your floats is hanging up. Maybe on the gasket? You might have one or more needles getting cocked and not closing after the floats have dropped. I think the second option is more likely. I have a similar issue that I have yet to attend to.

[Rickrod3]

My 2 cents

Next time it happens ;I would find out if it is all of them, or jut one of them.
This would help you to narrow down the possible causes.
By pulling the bottom of the air cleaner while it is leaking you can tell which carb or carbs that are leaking.

It helped me find the crud built up inside the carb by the tees which would make its way onto the needle valve.

HTH.

Rick

[jetmechmarty]

The wet spark plug will tell you which one it is.

[cywelchjr]

It leaks into the airbox, everything is new inside the float bowl and I have used clear plastic line with cone filters since I first rebuilt them. If I tap on the bowls with a rubber hammer they stop leaking but if I run the tank dry they leak again. I am going to work on them today and if they dont seal up, I may have to give up. It's gonna be hot as hell here in MN today so this should be fun with out any A/C in the garage. With me luck people, please chime in with anymore ideas.

If they are doing that it's because they are dropping too far and they WILL stick when they do that. There is a second adjustment that adjusts how far they can drop down, and they only need to be able to drop a short distance, if you get that adjusted right, they can't stick down. It's the second little tab on the floats and if you adjust it you will find it limits how far the float can drop, adjust it so the float can drop only enough to open the needle valve slightly (the float needs to move only about 1/4" at the most) and that should stop the problem for good. It's an adjustment that is often missed when adjusting the carbs. It can also be more of a problem if the needle valves are turned around the wrong way, the clip that goes over the float tab can bind one way and not the other, the easy fix is the just get rid of that little clip on the needle valve, but I've always just made sure it was on the right way to not bind and used the adjustment to limit how far the floats can drop when doing my XS400 carbs which use the same floats and needle valves (actually mine are real hybrid, brass floats with the push in seat and o-ring seal etc plus the cross passage and rubber plug in the low speed jet).

[cywelchjr]

One or more of your floats is hanging up. Maybe on the gasket? You might have one or more needles getting cocked and not closing after the floats have dropped. I think the second option is more likely. I have a similar issue that I have yet to attend to.

Same issue as I mentioned, use the adjustment to limit how far the floats can drop, that will stop the sticking.

[Stepka]

Well it FINALLY STOPPED leaking!!! I had adjusted them to .90" and had a slight issue with 1&2 but 4 was a gusher to a little tapping made them stop. After that I drained and refilled each bowl about 8 times to insure that they closed. Now to put everything back together, change all of the fluids and get out for a test ride..... after I replace coils and misc things on a CB650 Thanks for all of your help

[Stepka]

So.... now I have no gauge lights... WTF!?!?!?!? I removed the tank and noticed a Red/Yellow wire spliced into a Blue/Yellow wire (lighting circit), I connectede them normally and noe no Head Light or gauge lights.... WTF??? I really need some hrlp regarding his ptoberm.

Its a good thing I make my own beer and it's cold on tap..... just for issues like this

[jetmechmarty]

Its a good thing I make my own beer and it's cold on tap..... just for issues like this

Sometimes it's best to just walk away. The fresh look may shed new light.

You're going to have to print off a wiring diagram of your bike. From there, you should be able to determine what goes where, understanding that there may be errors in the diagram. Once the wiring is in the right place, you can once again determine what is, and isn't, working. At this point you can troubleshoot and make proper repairs. I am making the assumption that someone before you has tampered with the wiring.

[TopCatGr58]

You've been PO'd.

Hey Stepka,

Lots of wires and color combos. The Red/Yellow sounds like a HOT/12 volt line, and the blue/yellow sounds like the one for the headlight relay, but not sure? Prior to you "fixing/correcting" the splice, when you turned the key on, was the headlight on right from the get go...before starting the bike?

The headlight is supposed to come on after the bike is started, via a wire tapped from the alt, with a diode in line, going to a latching relay. Another component is the RLU and they can also go bad, and folks will bypass them also.
T.C.

[Stepka]

Hey Stepka,

Lots of wires and color combos. The Red/Yellow sounds like a HOT/12 volt line, and the blue/yellow sounds like the one for the headlight relay, but not sure? Prior to you "fixing/correcting" the splice, when you turned the key on, was the headlight on right from the get go...before starting the bike?

The headlight is supposed to come on after the bike is started, via a wire tapped from the alt, with a diode in line, going to a latching relay. Another component is the RLU and they can also go bad, and folks will bypass them also.
T.C.

The hedlight came on with the key but was really dim. I did not have any cluster lights at all, thats why I looked into it. I have fixed everything now but have not tested yet, but hopefully I will get a chance today.

[Stepka]

Well... great news!! I have dash lights after start up but my headlight still did not come on.... than I hit the high beam and it lit up. Should I be worried about the lighting unit or relay?... I'm gonna pull the light and see if there is voltage at the connector