Stiffer rear shocks?

[Lucien Harpress]

I've got a question. I've done a few mods to my bike, and I'm worried that I may have jacked the handling a bit. I replaced the shocks that the PO put on (non-standards, not sure what kind) with stock shocks. I then proceeded to bolt on a couple of ammo-can saddlebags, which (together) probably weigh a good 35-40 lbs., slung back pretty far. The end result is a bike that, while still rideable, has a front end that feels lighter than it did. I've got NOTHING up front to balance this weight out, and the problem isn't horrible, just enough that I'm always noticing it.. So, here's my questions:

- Would stiffer shocks in the rear help my problem?

- What's out there for shocks a bit stiffer than stock? (I REALLY don't feel like breaking the bank on this)

Thanks in advance.

[Poprock]

XJ 1100 air shocks. Move your boxes forward some?

[petejw]

the rear shocks are adjustable,
both spring and dampening,
have u tried adjusting them?

[jetmechmarty]

Put the bike on the center stand. Measure the distance from the axle to a point directly above it, say the seat rail. Put the bike on the ground and sit on it with your feet on the pegs. (You'll need someone to help you with this) Take the measurement again. Subtract it from the first measurement. You're looking for about 30-35mm. If it's much more than that, you should replace the springs with something stiffer, if you can't correct it by adjusting the preload. 1 in = 25.4mm

[jetmechmarty]

Correcting your issue with "cheap" shocks may prove a challenge. While I'm not crazy about them, I have Progressive Suspension shocks with 140/200 spring rate. They haul the load and work fine, I'm just not a big fan of progressive wound springs. Some folks I have great respect for, like them just fine.

To do it over again, I would contact Traxxion Dynamics. They can source economical shocks for you with the proper spring rate for your application. Of course, that depends upon your definition of economical. I consider the Progressive units economical as compared to all the $500-$1000 "good" shocks out there. We all know that's not going to happen.

Another option is to source take-offs from a heavy cruiser. I'm sure this group has the knowledge to point you in the right direction. It might take a bit of trial and error to come up with the correct springs.

[oldyam80sg]

I use Progressive shocks that i bought from Dennis Kirk and have Progressive springs in my front as well.I also weigh 225 lbs and experience no light feeling in the front.I think i paid $80.00 for the rear shocks.

[Lucien Harpress]

Thanks for the info, guys. The shocks I have now are already cranked up to their stiffest preload, and it's JUST under what I need to cut it. My main concern was where to go from here, without breaking the bank.

There's a few of the XJ shocks on Ebay for relatively reasonable prices right now. Are those pretty much a bolt-on to a 1980 Standard?

[cywelchjr]

The XJ shocks are pretty close to bolt on. And they will carry a good bit more load than the stock shocks even, plus have adjustable dampening. The only issue is that you have three choices when mounting them:

1. Remove the helmet lock and mount them just like on the XJ, you will likely need to clearance the lower eye of the right shock just slightly to get the lower bolt in.
2. Leave the helmet lock on, but keeping the shocks on the same side as original, turn them 180 degrees so the hoses go behind them rather than in front of them, this unfortunately puts the dampener adjuster on the inside where you can't see it though, you still have the clearance issue on the lower right eye when putting the bolt in (maybe).
3. Swap the lower bushings between the left and right shocks, and then of course swap the shock left to right, this does the same thing as turning them around but leaves the dampener adjustment on the outside, this is how 3Phase has his mounted, mine are mounted used method 2, but I'm seriously considering switching to method 1 this weekend, depends on how time works out, cause I have a lot of things planned, probably more than I can get done.

But in essence, yes they are pretty close to plug and play, and the ride is MUCH better with them on. Both smoother and more adjustable, since it's air ride, you can adjust it more finely than with normal pre-load. The only issue is if they leak, in which case you have to rebuild them (did I mention they are rebuildable? ), putting new seals in them and fresh oil, and putting fresh oil in them isn't a bad idea anyways, and is done by level rather than by volume, using 5w fork oil. I can run mine nice and soft for around town, and then crank them tighter if wanted for the road, but I've found the pressure that gives me good ride and handling and keep them there.

[Lucien Harpress]

REALLY good to hear they're rebuildable. That was my major worry, that they would be sealed units like the ones I have now, and I'd get a pair that would end up leaking, with nothing I could do about it. Good to know!