'80 SG... First Start...

[bikerphil]

Well, after double-and-triple checking everything with the carbs off the bike, I just dunno...

Float levels looked very close when checked with the tube off the drain, so that's not it. I tried 'simulating' the engine vacuum with my shopvac to see if I was getting a fuel out places it shouldn't be coming out of

I'm having a hard time getting anything done today, 'cause my dog decided this year he doesn't like fireworks.. Every time something goes boom, he gets totally underfoot (and at 90+ lbs, that's a lot under foot!) and I have to calm him down. We'll both be glad when the 4th is past....

That oughta make a nice 4th of July bang, gas fumes thru a wet vac, you know a spark from the motor

Yep, animals don't like that noise, Happy 4th though.

[crazy steve]

Woo hoo! Some success finally!!

Went through and changed out the rebuild kit needles for a set of good stockers, and swapped on a set of bottom-drain bowls. I also re-set the float levels to 24.5mm instead of 23 to drop the fuel level. That may be a bit lean, but I'll do the sync and idle adjustment first before I worry too much about that. I did have trouble with high idle, but finally figured out that the throttle sleeve wasn't letting the carb butterflies close quite all the way. Pulled the sleeve and altered it until I had slack in the cable, much better. I now have a stable idle.

It appears the RLU has gone TU, as the 'headlight' indicator came on after the third start, and stays on no matter if it's high or low... grrrr...

But it's progress!

[petejw]

good stuff,
was that the slide needles or the needle from the
needle and seat?

to check for corect float height while riding
have the bike in 5th gear, crack open to wot from
2000rpm, there should be no lag or bogging down and
should accept throttle to redline if floats are set correctly.

[crazy steve]

Pete, I replaced the slide needles. The rebuild kits came with some adjustable brass needles, but they had a different taper and a rather sloppy fit in the slides. I had to dig through all my carb stuff to come up with four good stockers...

And there's definitely 'stuff' in that eBay exhaust, as the mufflers still had smoke coming out them five minutes after I shut the bike off!

[DGXSER]

Glad you got the carbs almost sorted out. Just reset that float height back to stock and you should be in fine shape.

Don't overlook the easy solution on the RLU and try a new headlight.

[natemoen]

Glad you got the girl running!

[bikerphil]

Ah, the wrong needles were the problem. I've seen it happen a couple times, wouldn't even think that would affect low speed. Good, you got it running better.

[petejw]

yep, didnt think the needles would come into effect at idle,
good to know in future tho.

[DGXSER]

As I mentioned or eluded to earlier in the thread, I made a mistake in assembly the first time I dug into my carbs. Out of curiosity I took one of the slides apart just to see what was in there. When I put it back together I put the spring in first, then the needle. I only took one apart and so it was only one back in wrong. That one cylinder ran rich as can be no matter what I did with the mix screw in low RPM and idle. That cylinder would foul out when sitting at a light, or cruising around at low RPM, but as soon as I got above 3k or so it would kick back in. Run the bike at low RPM and the plug came out black as the ace of spades. Run it above 3k and look again, plug was nice and tan/clean. Took me a loooonng time to finally figure out what was wrong. Got the needle and spring in the right order and that bike ran great ever since.

Essentially, it is the same thing as having your slide raised up just a little, so you actually bring the main jets into play at idle and low RPM.

[petejw]

As I mentioned or eluded to earlier in the thread, I made a mistake in assembly the first time I dug into my carbs. Out of curiosity I took one of the slides apart just to see what was in there. When I put it back together I put the spring in first, then the needle. I only took one apart and so it was only one back in wrong. That one cylinder ran rich as can be no matter what I did with the mix screw in low RPM and idle. That cylinder would foul out when sitting at a light, or cruising around at low RPM, but as soon as I got above 3k or so it would kick back in. Run the bike at low RPM and the plug came out black as the ace of spades. Run it above 3k and look again, plug was nice and tan/clean. Took me a loooonng time to finally figure out what was wrong. Got the needle and spring in the right order and that bike ran great ever since.

Essentially, it is the same thing as having your slide raised up just a little, so you actually bring the main jets into play at idle and low RPM.

both you and phil made the correct call there,
i was always under the belief that the needle along with the main jet
wouldnt make any difference at idle, u learn something everyday hey.

[bikerphil]

Keepin' my fingers crossed, Steve didn't really say if it runs well yet. Gotta really ride it, you know.

[crazy steve]

Well, I missed a few days (one due to a funeral, and the second to let my back recover from those unpadded church pews; those just kill my back...), so I got out and worked on the sync/adjustment today.

First, let me say that my 'Murrin' sync tool works great. Took less than ten minutes to get the initial sync before I had to shut the motor off. Why did I 'have' to shut it off, you ask? I painted the barrels/heads with brushed-on oil-based paint, and there's a cure process when you do this. A few more heat cycles, and it'll be ready to test ride.

The carbs adjusted no problem, so it probably was the slide needles causing the problem (well, that and the throttle being too far open due to the throttle sleeve). Smooth idle, responds to throttle good, starts easily. All good...

I'm waiting until tomorrow to do a test ride, as nobody is around on a weekday to retrieve me if there's any 'glitch' in the ride... I'm also waiting until after the test ride to see if I need to change the float levels, as I think they're set pretty close to where they were before.

The issue with the RLU was a loose connection at the handlebar control plug under the tank; I tightened the female side and the problem is gone.

I also figured out the 'trick' to getting the stock airbox on with minimum fuss. Some of you may already know this, but in case you don't, here it is: Get the stacks started on the carbs on one side or the other. Don't worry about the airbox being cocked. Once you have two on one side on the carb throats as far as you can, install the lower mounting screw on that side. Now you can go to the other side and 'lever' the airbox towards the carbs to get the other two on. The screw prevents the first two from popping off... Works great....