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  • No Power Issue

    Hi Guys,

    First off, go easy on me. This is my first bike and I'm not too skilled (but learning) at all of this mechanical stuff.

    I have a 1980 XS11 standard that doesn't seem to be getting any power. One day when I was coming home from a ride it started sputtering a few hundred yards form my house. I thought I may have been running out of gas and thought myself lucky to be so close to home. I pull in the driveway and shut if off to talk to my SO who happened to be outside. When I went to go start it again to put it away, there was nothing. No lights on the instrument panel, no attempt to turn over, nothing. So I figured I'd somehow killed my battery.

    This was right before vacation so unfortunately I had to put it away for a week.

    I get back from vacation and try to push start it down the road, but have no luck. So, and this is where some people might call me names, I looked up on the internet to see if its possible to jump a bike battery with a car. Most said yes, a few said no. So I gave it a shot. I hooked it up to my car, and it started right up. Cool! I went to disconnect the jumper cables and it died immediately upon removing the bike side negative clamp.

    So now I'm reading stuff about a bad rectifier, but that doesn't seem to be what I'm seeing. Fuses all seem good, I checked all of the connections behind the fuse plate and nothing seemed bad. I have the battery hooked to a trickle charger right now, but its reading at 100%.

    Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Sounds like you may have an issue with the ground wire from your battery. Make sure your getting good contact on both ends.

    Better check the positive while your there also.

    Might just get lucky and just have a bad connection.
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

    Comment


    • #3
      A dud battery will charge and discharge quickly. It's a bad sign when you put a dead battery on charge and find it's fully charged in ten minutes. Or showing as fully charged when it's not.

      The TCI 'black box' ignition unit needs a minimum voltage to run (the exact voltage is on the forum somewhere but I think it's about 10.5v). Anything less than that and you don't get a spark. You'll not bump start it and even the emergency kickstarter won't get the bike going if the voltage is too low.

      If it isn't the ground connection, I'd replace the battery. The fact that your bike runs when jump connected to a car battery, then dies when it's disconnected, seems to indicate that your battery is no good or youhave a bad ground.

      Put a new battery in and see if it starts and runs. Then just turn your headlamp on and rev the engine. If the headlamp brightens up, your charging system is working..
      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Schwiggy,

        The guys have already covered it. You didn't say how old the battery was. They usually only last abouut 3 years or less. The charging system needs a decent battery to function properly. IF you don't have one, go to your local Harbor Freight or similar discount hardware store and pick up a cheap multi meter for less than $10.00, so you can test your charging system.

        Yes, you can jump your bike with a car battery, some say it's better/safer if the car is NOT running. When the battery plates sulphate, they can't hold much if any charge, the current flow resistance thru them is very high, and that's why the charger can show that it's full with a very short charge time, but it has very little amperage power.

        Aside from the brighter headlight when you rev it, testing the battery with the multimeter across the +/- terminals, first at idle, it will probably show 12 volts, but at 2500 + rpm, it should be reading 14.5 or so volts.....if it's still showing 12 volts, then further diagnostics are in order, but the system is NOT charging.....could be Reg/Rect...most common problem, but can also be Field coils, or Stator coils....you've already verified that the large white plugs from the stator BEHIND the fuseblock are intact, not melted or corroded, so that helps eliminate one possible problem.

        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #5
          Could also be a poorly connecting fuse, moving the jumper cables around could have jostled things around to connect and disconnect things. Probably the battery connections or battery though.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys.

            I looked at the wiring behind the fuse box again and one of the connections (3 white wire connector) was definitely corroded to all hell. But it looks like its been corroded for a lifetime.

            I checked the ground wire from the battery and it seemed like it had a solid connection at both ends. I am going to try a new battery. Mine is only a year old, but I did buy it form Walmart, so maybe it was kinda crappy to begin with.

            Comment


            • #7
              Those 3 white wires are the output from the alternator. You'd better clean or replace it or don't count on any charging...

              Tony
              Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

              The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Schwiggy View Post
                I did buy it form Walmart, so maybe it was kinda crappy to begin with.
                I bought mine a Sam's (Walmart) too. The line of batteries they carry are made by Interstate batteries, at least here in OK, and are quality stuff.

                The new one I got had to be charged on the trickle charger for 26 hours for the initial charge, as per instructions, and is working superlatively.
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just because the battery is a year old means nothing.I had a similar problem with my ZRX with a Wal-Mart battery.In the winter time i use a trickle charger to keep the batteries so they don't sit.I also try to start 2 bikes every 2 weeks.My ZRX battery was fine until i took it off charge then it would sit for a week and die.As soon as the charger was back on it took like 10 minutes to charge and then be OK and die again after a week.I took it out for a ride and that helped but wanted to be sure so had it load tested at Auto-zone-It had a bad cell.I took it back to Wal-Mart and got a replacement.Maybe got a bad batch in.
                  1980 XS1100 SG
                  Inline fuel filters
                  New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
                  160 mph speedometer mod
                  Kerker Exhaust
                  xschop K & N air filter setup
                  Dynojet Recalibration kit
                  1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You can also go to Auto-Zone and get the ball tester to check the gravity level if you have a battery that isn't completely sealed for like $3.00
                    1980 XS1100 SG
                    Inline fuel filters
                    New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
                    160 mph speedometer mod
                    Kerker Exhaust
                    xschop K & N air filter setup
                    Dynojet Recalibration kit
                    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                    1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Schwiggy View Post
                      Thanks guys.

                      I looked at the wiring behind the fuse box again and one of the connections (3 white wire connector) was definitely corroded to all hell. But it looks like its been corroded for a lifetime..
                      Well it won't have been a lifetime so, as the venerable Geezer has already said.... get them cleaned pronto. If they're really bad and De-Oxit leaves no prongs left, replace the blocks completely.
                      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                      Comment

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