Removing broken spark plug - Suggestion?

[Incubus]

OK, I will tell the long story later. For now, I was switching the head on Succubus, the bitch bike, for a head off a same year parts bike. Everything went very smoothyl, right up until I had the carbs mounted, air box mounted and was about to put on the tank and start it. First, though, gotta get rid of this crusty old plugs. Two, three and four went without a htich. No. 1 plug was... resistant. During it's sojourn as lawn art, the plug must have taken up Zen. It had now become one with everything, but most immediately, the head.

Damn thing snapped right above the threads, flush to the spark plug hole.

I sprayed it with B-12 and I am letting it set for a spell. OK, I'm pouting. Then I plan to hit the thing with left hand drill bits and see if it will loosen up. However, I really don't want to pull the head again if I can avoid it. Any suggestions, anyone?

Patrick

[ManagerMike]

You should be able to break out the remaining ceramic from the center of the plug leaving a hollow shell ideal for an e-z out, just keep in mind the chances of pieces getting into the cylinder and start with the engine at TDC #1 to facilitate removal of any foriegn material with a shop vac and compressed air.
If it still won't budge with reasonable effort, you can carefully heat the shell with a torch then let it cool, and try again. This causes the steel to expand then shrink again loosening the threads, works on caliper and wheel cylinder bleeder screws about 95% of the time. Good luck!

[latexeses]

Are you sure everything (ceramic) cleared out of the base of the plug when it broke?
My first instinct would be to soak the thread area with Corrosion X or Kroil or as others have used, Marvel Mystery Oil. I would let it set soaking for a couple days actually.
For me, I have always had the best luck removing anything stuck in dissimilar metals is to add some heat. In this case a handheld propane torch to heat up the aluminum head around the plug just before I start with an extractor.



A couple of light raps with a hammer and a brass rod on the remaining plug would help too.

Take your time though.

[Incubus]

I have never had a lot of luck with EZ outs. After reading your postings I checked my set of Craftsman extractors. I have exactly one left with an intact tip. The others have caused great consternation, I know, but I cannot recall the exact moments of their failures. It certainly came at a bad time.

The survivor is the giant one I did not think I would ever have the opportunity to snap. It is, however, the RiGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB.

I have been studying this thing. It looks pretty stout, and very hard. It fits a 7/16 box end, but I don't think I could actually break this thing with a box end. I'm thinking this will require more power. Perhaps a 19-volt drill... or that big ole two handle Craftsman drill...

No, it has to be pneumatic. Only air power would have the torque to snap that size of bit. It looks pretty tough.

While I ponder, though, could anyone suggest which would be the correct medium for removing this plug? Hand tools only? Battery drill? Mongo drill? How much snap and power can I bring without ripping off a corner of my cylinder head?

Patrick

[natemoen]

Start small and work your way up to the high torque stuff.

[dpotter58]

How much snap and power can I bring without ripping off a corner of my cylinder head?

Film it. If you snap that bad boy off I want to see it!!!!

[skids]

I would try heating it and apply a lube like ph blaster I think the cooling of the metals will draw in the lube. The trouble with trying to just wrench it out is it bring out the aluminum threads from the deeper end and that would be real hard to force it through any good threads! Been there done that.

[skids]

That should read PB Blaster.

[Larrym]

Best "Penetrant" EVER

Use old brake fluid as the penetrant/lubricant.

Used it when I was an exhaust mechanic and continued to favor it above all others to this very day. (Dropped a rusty gas tank on an old F-350 truck...)

Don't get it on any painted surfaces: it's that aggressive.

Also does a nice "warning smoke" before it gets hot enough to ignite when/if you come to using a torch.

Plus one for videotaping/posting the heroics.

(Am I the only one who always uses anti-seize on every spark plug I install?)

[Shacknasty]

I would have the intake valve open and a shop vac on the exhaust when removing the porcelain. Keep that crapola outta yer motor!

Time is yer friend here. heat, penetrating spray and patience will work the best in the long run.

Every time you think about it use a propane torch and get it almost spit sizzling hot, apply the penetrant, and rap (not bash or whack!) yer wrench or whatever a couple time with a small hammer. Then leave it cool and repeat. After a few days it WILL come out. If ya get in a hurry, you could cause a lot more work for yerself.

Ya gotta believe!

[Diskman01]

I had the same thing happen on an old car. 2.5L Chrysler with aluminum head. Spark plug corroded and snapped it clean off leaving the threads in the hole.

Tried 3 in 1 oil, heat, brake fluid, acetone mixed with ATF, PB Blaster and finally a large "easy-out".

Snapped the easy out off. Ended up pulling the head and seeing it was cracking anyways. Installed replacement head and an intake valve decided it didn't want to be one with the stem anymore. The motor ate the valve.

I foolishly rebuilt the motor (sleeved the cracked cylinder) with a new master kit and pistons AND rods (NEW). Gave the car to my wife (at the time) who promptly tossed it into a storage facility and didn't pay the fees.

But I digress..

Try heat, lube and a square easy-out.

Don't be shocked if you get to pull the head and have a shop install a heli-coil though.

Good luck.