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Is there a tech tip somewhere for the washer placement?
Foot placement would be a better place to start before tearin' into it.......just sayin'
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
jat,
if u remove the gear shift cover, theres a line on the shift drum that
corresponds to a line on the shift lever with the trans in 2nd gear,
theres also 2 punch marks on the shift shaft that also needs to be aligned,
if u have a clymers its on pgs 125/6, might be worth while checking these
out as well b4 tearing into the trans.
pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
Well I'm not trying to add fuel to the fire here but I had the same troubles with my bike. I thought it was something other then having to do the dremel fix a washer swap too but I was wrong. My trouble with second was I sometimes couldn't shift into or get passed it to third. Especially after the tranny got warm. I found the dogs on my gears were wore so bad that it wouldn't allow it to engage. It kept popping back out into neutral. Sometimes it would throw it into first. So I'd say while your in there fix anything that's bent or broke. And do the dremel fix now cause if you don't you'll be back in it in time anyways.
Now on my brothers 81. He had third gear issues. But you could still ride it. You could shift past third to fourth and back to second just fine. It just slipped and popped. And he even had a bent shift fork I had to replace. He rode his bike like this for a year before I got into it. And now both bikes shifts great. I done the washer swap on both and I even beveled the gears that the dogs engage into to help pull them together when they engage. Gives it more a positive engagement. Especially when your hammering down on it.
You'll be fine. Just follow the procedures here and you'll have it back together in no time.
But I do wonder and I may have missed it but why are you splitting the case? You don't have to with the dremel fix.
Good Luck!
Chris
79 XS1100 Standard aka: Mutt
87 Honda TRX350D 4X4: Old Blue!
93 NewYorker Salon: Sleeper...
71 RoadRunner 440 Magnum: Mean Green!
69 Charger 440 Magnum: Pleasure Ride!
I hear ya! Texas and Bug good points, I thought laying off the clutch was a good thing to help minimize heat and wear. I do the same in any car I drive with a manual tranny.
Not really impressed with my OEM service manual, is clymer's better? Is there a better option than these?
Sadly, no. The Clymer has pretty much the same info as the factory manual with a few more mistakes thrown in for good measure; it's primary advantage is it was written by people with english as a first langauge...
For tech info, the FSM is best...
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
[QUOTE=crazy steve;330809]Sadly, no. The Clymer has pretty much the same info as the factory manual with a few more mistakes thrown in for good measure; it's primary advantage is it was written by people with english as a first langauge...
Sadly, no. The Clymer has pretty much the same info as the factory manual with a few more mistakes thrown in for good measure; it's primary advantage is it was written by people with english as a first langauge...
For tech info, the FSM is best...
Where would I find one?
I guess I already have it, mine is coded LIT-11616-XS-13
Actually the truth be known...........HERE is your best source for information, technical or otherwise.......
81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
Another opinion, if your pulling the engine and splitting the cases, then the flipping the bike and all that is no longer your concern. By splitting the cases, the entire repair becomes childs play by comparison. So, regardless if shift pawl and othe such issues that may or may not be the cause of our problem, and all of which you will be able to investigate on your way to splitting the cases anyway, I would work on those gears and swap the washer while you have it all apart.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
Could you send me that post with the photos so that I can make an addendum tech tip to the dremmel fix tip?
Nubian, can't remember how many miles on the bike, but IF I were going to split the cases, I would first check out the wear on the cam chain and Primary chain, it would be a perfect time to replace them both if needed.
Okay, second thought, you don't necessarily need to remove the jugs and top end to split the cases, so it would be a bit more work to replace the cam chain, but still a decent time for it.
Might as well R&R the clutch plates as well, new HD springs, mic the fibers, replace if near min spec, etc.
As for the starter clutch, a fellow replied to the admin email a while back with some additional techniques to service the starter clutch shaft.
Hi TC,
Just to tell you about something I tried,my starter clutch packed up completely,and I couldn`t get one anywhere, so I put my old one in my lathe, and polished it on the bearing surface.
Well, it`s working perfect, so I`m stoked.
regards,
Lionel
So... just wanted to add that you may want to use some emory cloth or such on the actual starter shaft to SMOOTH it out so that it doesn't have any gouges or such in it. At first this sounded counterintuitive to me, thinking a smoother shaft might allow the starter clutch wheels to SLIDE around it too easily, but I guess if it's rough, that the wheels possibly bounce on the surface instead or just don't have much surface area to grasp/pinch when it's trying to engage the shaft.
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
Here are my priorities in order:
The main reason for splitting the case - starter clutch.
While i'm in there will check shifting forks and gears. Will like to have a set of new gears at the ready just in case they need replacing. No time for dremel fix if necessary. Reason being someone will be helping me and I don't want to impose on his time and space. Same goes for shifting forks if need be. As for the shifting forks what can I expect to find there, if in need of repair can they be repaired (bent back or whatever)or do I have to replace them. In both cases I will need part numbers for all the gears being replaced and the forks?
Someone PLEASE chime in here 2nd request.
Also which gaskets will I need?
Aside from that I would like to install a kickstarter while I have it open desperately trying to piece one together. If not successful I would like to at the very least install the parts that won't require me splitting the case to complete the job.
Again if someone could chime in and advise which parts those are, that would be great.
Is there anything else I should be looking at while the case is split so I will hopefully never have to split open again
Here are my priorities in order:
The main reason for splitting the case - starter clutch.
While i'm in there will check shifting forks and gears. Will like to have a set of new gears at the ready just in case they need replacing. No time for dremel fix if necessary. Reason being someone will be helping me and I don't want to impose on his time and space. Same goes for shifting forks if need be. As for the shifting forks what can I expect to find there, if in need of repair can they be repaired (bent back or whatever)or do I have to replace them. In both cases I will need part numbers for all the gears being replaced and the forks?
Someone PLEASE chime in here 2nd request.
Also which gaskets will I need?
Aside from that I would like to install a kickstarter while I have it open desperately trying to piece one together. If not successful I would like to at the very least install the parts that won't require me splitting the case to complete the job.
Again if someone could chime in and advise which parts those are, that would be great.
Is there anything else I should be looking at while the case is split so I will hopefully never have to split open again
Thank you all
Here is the schematic of parts for the kickstarter
Select/Motorycycle, etc, to find the listing for the parts/gears. These gears are on the countershaft, not the main gear shaft. 2nd gear meshes with 5th, and 1st meshes with 4th. It's been noted that the later year bikes usually loose 1st more than 2nd, but all are susceptible. I lost 1st first on my 81SH, then 2nd a few months later...so would highly recommend getting all 4 gears. I found 3rd was actually already factory undercut in my trans when I did the dremmel on it. You might also be able to find a listing of the gears on this site using the SEARCH function for threads with "trans gears part numbers" or such, I remember someone posting a list a while back!
You don't really need any gaskets, you can use 3Bond/ Yamahabond or equivalent gasket maker/sealant instead, or you can buy a roll/sheet of material at local auto store and make your own.
The forks from what I've seen with regards to wears is on their sides where they contact/engage the gear wheels, folks/PO's who experienced the skipping gears would "learn" they could keep it in gear by maintaining SHIFT LEVER TENSION which would use the fork pushing against the gear to keep it meshed...but these forks are aluminum rubbing against hardened steel!
The bending I would imagine would be in the same direction as the sideways wear patterns...that's the stress points/direction.
Now as for the kick starter....I can't remember who posted it, but there was a difference in a few of the gears on the starter motor shaft that the kickstarter would engage..and since Yamaha did away with the kicker, they changed that gear so that it would NOT engage/grab the shaft when it would be turned by a possible kicker gear, so it was almost fruitless to try to add it to the later model bikes. The earlier 79-80's I believe still had the earlier designed gear that would still grab/engage to turn the starter gears, so you could add the kicker gears and it would work!
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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