Dyna Coil?

[SFerinTEXAS]

Put another way. Its been proven other coils can be put on these bikes. Never been proven it is a need. Started as an option , turned into a must do.
I did it (not me ) so you should syndrome .

[motoman]

+1 what SF said!.........changes approach associated with tuning/main jetting.......ever so slightly but as a 'lean burn' motor with emissions a manufacturer concern, hotter coils with the more precise spark from the Iridiun plugs, tis even a leaner burn......not good in my books without making a few 'richen-up' changes............never much cared for 'holed' pistons or collapsed rings......JMHO.....

[SFerinTEXAS]

+1 what SF said!.........changes approach associated with tuning/main jetting.......ever so slightly but as a 'lean burn' motor with emissions a manufacturer concern, hotter coils with the more precise spark from the Iridiun plugs, tis even a leaner burn......not good in my books without making a few 'richen-up' changes............never much cared for 'holed' pistons or collapsed rings......JMHO.....

can you water that down for people like me. I hope I';m not alone here but that's OK if so. A lot of times I feel that way. But don't worry much a bout it.

When I have a question I ask. If I have a comment sometimes I make it.

[cywelchjr]

He's saying these engines run a bit lean anyways, especially the 80+ motors, and the hotter spark and possibly hotter plugs often put in with them are supposed to make the engine run leaner, and leaner means hotter which can melt the pistons if you don't rejet to adjust the mixture to make it richer to adjust. It's certainly a reason for me to not change them, cause my plugs are just about right, so changing would likely mean rejetting and why break what's working just fine right now? I may do the plug wire replacement, but I might just go with the NGK wire splices that might let me replace all but what's inside the coils with new wire.

[TopCatGr58]

Not wanting to turn this into an HBT discussion, but for folks who have badly worn/aged/rotted plug wires that are crumbling apart as they are touched, then I would prefer to put on newer stronger coils and better insulated wires than "try" to do the wire replacement process having to do dremmel surgery on the OEM coils. Yes, if your OEM coils/wires are in good condition, then sure this is a LUXURY mod, but many folks have reported much better/easier starting, and stronger running engines with the high output coils. Others also reported the elimination of low rpm misses and such with the new coils by possibly providing stronger sparks at lower voltage levels during low rpm low alternator output. SO...we're just trying to provide the info necessary so that folks who do need to do the MOD can proceed with the correct parts and techniques.

T.C.

[James England]

many folks have reported much better/easier starting, and stronger running engines with the high output coils. Others also reported the elimination of low rpm misses and such with the new coils by possibly providing stronger sparks at lower voltage levels during low rpm low alternator outputT.C.

Absolutely. My bike ran OK with the OEM coils....but with 3 ohm Dyna coils, the difference is 100% noticeable. Instant starting. Irritating low rpm misfire 'cough' disappeared. A hugely stronger, brightly coloured spark instead of the OEM feeble one. Iridium plugs are all a nice tan brown.

Same goes for the Geezer reg/rect upgrade.... yep the OEM one worked fine but the upgrade is vastly better. Full charging at about 1500rpm instead of 4,000rpm, no slow flashers at stop lights on tickover, better charging.

OEM doesn't mean the best possible and OEM parts aren't somehow sacrosanct. Look at the pickup wires, or awful welding on the swingarms especially, or regulators that fry the neighbouring rectifiers 'cos they share the same heatsink, awful tyres on them when new etc etc. COST came into things when these bikes (and any bikes) were made and quality was compromised sometimes.

I put silicone HT leads with carbon fibre cores on my bike. Again, the OEM leads were OK but definitely not as good. OEM HT caps? Hardly the best and you hardly ever see them. (I bought some and used the metal casings to disguise my NGK caps). IMO there's nothing wrong with improvement. I certainly benefit from it on my own bike which starts and rides like a different machine

[New2Me]

I feel slightly overwhelmed with all the info on this site. Im replacing my coils with the DC1-1 (3ohm) and will eliminate the ballast resister like tutorial says. What got me confused is the type of plug and wire needed. I read about needing resister type plugs to avoid radio interference or wires with resistor caps for the same reason. What determines if you need that or not? I bought NGK BP6ES for the bike based off what I read somewhere on here. Personally Im confused about this concept of "resister plugs" because all plugs are a resisters. So how do you make a resister-resister! I'm as old as my bike so I really didn't tinker with technology.

[crazy steve]

The 'resistors' are to remove radio interference, which if you don't run either resistor plugs, wires, or caps, the ignition system will generate RF (radio frequency) noise on other RF electrical equipment; TVs, radios, computers, etc. You can actually be ticketed for this...

The OEM plugs are non-resistor (the NGKs you bought), as are the factory solid-core wires, so Yamaha used resistor caps. If you want to retain the look and/or fit of the OEM wires, fitting resistor caps is the easiest way; new ones are available from most any bike dealer, as well as online. Carbon-core resistor wires are commonly available, but can go bad much easier than solid-core and aren't generally used on bikes. Or you can switch to resistor plugs; they will have a 'R' somewhere in the number.

[New2Me]

So that's what people were talking about when they referred to their "5k MSD" caps? I guess that makes sense now! Thanks Steve, and everyone for helping me out. I really appreciate it! Unfortunately this isnt that last you've seen of me though.

[cywelchjr]

No problem. We welcome questions from those new to these machines (and even those not new to them, we are all still learning about them, even those who are 30 year owners). The whole point to this site is to share information about these bikes and riding and bikes in general and our love of the bikes and riding (not necessarily in that order) of both. It's much better to ask questions if your not sure than to damage things because you were afraid to ask. It's often easier to help you through the job in the first place, than to try to talk you through fixing a botched job.

[crazy steve]

The interesting thing about all this, is it usually isn't an issue on a car/truck as the metal body blocks the interference. But on a vehicle with a open motor or a fiberglass body, you'll run into the problem. Anybody that's familar with Corvettes remembers those bulky, clumsy 'ignition covers' that surrounded all the plug wires and the distributor. If you took them off, you couldn't listen to the car's radio for all the ignition whine...

[New2Me]

I knock out radios with my HID lights on my car. A light burnt out so I bought a ballast & bulb kit off ebay because it was cheaper than just buying a bulb. (and I was too lazy to check if the balast was bad) Well I just replaced the one side and as soon as I turned on the lights the garage and car radios went to static! (thats FM not AM) It was cold and I wasn't in the mood to fix it so its still like that today. If I use the xm radio threw the tape adapter I dont get static.

So that I am clear I should buy (2) 5k ohm 90 degree and (2) 120 or 45 degree in 5k. Then a universal spiral core wire kit from local parts store and im good to go?