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  • Seized engine.. Help!

    Okay so I just recently purchased a 1980 1100 xs special for a very cheap price, due to the engine being locked up. The bike has been sitting for around 6-7 years luckily with the spark plugs in it. Also I am a new member to this forum! yay!

    Okay so here is what I've tried, and I wanted to see if you guys had any recommendations (before I have to tear into the engine). I have pulled the valve covers and sprayed a good amount of penetrating oil there. Also I pulled the spark plugs and sprayed a good amount on top of the pistons. I put the bike into 5th gear and tried rocking it, without any luck. My next step is to try and turn the engine by the crank, but I wanted to verify on which way I needed to try and turn it (I would assume clockwise?). And also where I need to try and crank it from, this should be by taking off the right side crank case cover and turning it by the bolt on the generator? If so how much force should I apply?

    I'm sorry if these are silly questions, I've have yet to deal with a seized engine. I would really appreciate any tips and concerns you may have!!!

    Thanks!!
    1980 1100 xs special

  • #2
    Give the penetrating oil time to do it's work. Give it another squirt today then try rocking it again the next day. As far as trying to break it free, I think you'll get better results using the in-gear-and-rock method, but use first gear.
    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

    Comment


    • #3
      Welcome to the form! You might want to try the search button, im sure there are some posts regarding "stuck engine" out there. Sorry I cant answer any of your questions... I do know people have brough back stuck engines though. Seemed like it took a few days of soaking with various fluids to get them to release. Think I remember someone using a combination of trany fluid and penetrating oils... Good luck and welsome.

      PS. If you dont have any, go out and get PB Blaster. Nothing compares to it, its the best.
      '79 XS11 F
      Stock except K&N

      '79 XS11 SF
      Stock, no title.

      '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
      GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

      "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

      Comment


      • #4
        Time is your friend when it comes to stuck engines. If you force it you quite often will break things, if you do it slow and give it time to free up things are usually good to go.

        I have had engines that have been sitting outside for years without plugs and sometimes it might take a couple months but you can get them free without breaking things.

        Diesel fuel and atf make a nice penetrating fluid for breaking engines free. Just give the cylinders a good coating each day and rack it back and forth a few times each day and she will come loose when it is ready to.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment


        • #5
          Well, first, do you know why the motor is seized? If it became seized due to a mechanical failure of some sort, it may be easier to just get another motor.

          As far as turning it by hand, your best bet IMO is to remove the alternator cover, use a strap wrench on the rotor and try turning it counter-clockwise as you're facing it. If it's really locked up, trying to turn it via the bolt will just loosen the bolt. If trying to turn it on the ignition side, you'll damage the timing wheel or advance unit where it keys into the crank if you use too much force.

          Have you tried turning it with the starter? This would be your easiest method; connect a jumper battery to the bike. Hook the negative directly to the motor casing, then touch the starter lead to the solenoid to positive. If that doesn't spin it, time to pull the head....
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment


          • #6
            Pentrating oil

            I have used PB Blaster with mixed results over the years. I use CRC Knock'er Loose exclusively now. The stuff melts rust. We use it at work to get bolts that hold hot manifold systems on injection molds to come loose. The bolts get rusted and baked into place, but it gets them loose! We used to have to drill the heads of the socket head cap screws to get the manifolds off. You can get it at W.W. Grainger.
            1979XS1100SF
            K&N's and drilled airbox
            Jardine 4in1
            Dunlop Elite 3's
            JBM slide diaphragms
            142.5 main jets
            45 pilot jets
            T.C.'s fusebox & SOFA
            750/850 FD mod.
            XV 920 Needle Mod.
            Mike's XS plastic floats set at 26mm
            Venture Cam Chain Tensioner

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DAVINCI View Post
              Give the penetrating oil time to do it's work. Give it another squirt today then try rocking it again the next day. As far as trying to break it free, I think you'll get better results using the in-gear-and-rock method, but use first gear.
              Hi DaVinci,
              if the motor is rusted shut and NOT mechanically jammed, patience is what's needed, that, and penetrating fluid.
              Squirt and rock, repeat daily.
              But high gear, NOT first. The leverage works backwards when the wheel is trying to drive the engine.
              Fred Hill, S'toon
              XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
              "The Flying Pumpkin"

              Comment


              • #8
                Before you try turning the crank Get electric power to it using jumpers if you need to to find neutral with the dash light.So far as Ive seen a seized engine is an assumption.This will disengage the motor from the middle drive.Then try the starter, with the plugs out of course.
                79SF
                XJ11
                78E

                Comment


                • #9
                  check the oil in the mid drive
                  careful what you wish for.........you might get it

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    1979 XS 1100 Special parts all are original

                    I have decided not to ressurect my yamaha 1100XS special. Other than the starter, and the front tire, clean and synch carbs, everything is available for part-out. Contact Mike Butler 714-828-5812 or 714-326-5720 on my cell. I live near Knott's Berry farm
                    79 XS Special

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you everyone for your reply's! I will try these recommendations and keep you all updated. I also heard that a good penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of powersteering fluid and acetone, any thought on that? I have tried PB blaster without any luck so far, it has been sitting for a few days now. Also I did try to turn the engine with the starter and I didn't have any luck with that. And also as far as I know the bike was a daily driver for the previous owner, and he just let it sit too long so it seized up. So as far as I know there is no mechanical failures... but people say just about anything to sell a bike
                      1980 1100 xs special

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've heard good results from using Kroil...

                        http://www.kanolabs.com/
                        '79 XS11 F
                        Stock except K&N

                        '79 XS11 SF
                        Stock, no title.

                        '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                        GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                        "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Diesel is all iv'e ever used for a seized top end. Takes a while, and daily attention, but usually works. Not sure about the atf/acetetone mix? Acetone is a solvent and would likely dilute the lubricating quality of the atf, and would evaporate out pretty quick I think.

                          You need to remove the head, as filling the cylinders through the plug holes could result in a hydraulic lock, and possible piston and/or valve damage when you do get it moving. Even hand cranking can damage things if you've got a cylinder full of liquid trying to compress, (if the plugs are put back in of course, which iv'e seen). And, besides, pulling the head removes the added load of the cams which should allow the engine to turn a little easier. 'course you'll have to re-time the cams when you do get it moving, but that's not hard.
                          Last edited by b.walker5; 06-17-2011, 05:55 PM.
                          1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                          2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                          Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                          "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            if its a seized bearing all the penetrating oil
                            wont help any, might not hurt to drain the oil
                            and see if there is any foreign material in it,
                            if the engines been sitting for a long time, ull
                            at best need new valve stem oil seals,
                            personally id pull the engine apart and see what you have
                            to deal with.
                            pete


                            new owner of
                            08 gen2 hayabusa


                            former owner
                            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                            zrx carbs
                            18mm float height
                            145 main jets
                            38 pilots
                            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If you think the rings are stuck you can free the engine with hydraulic pressure.

                              Find a cylinder that has both valves closed. Fill that cylinder up with oil. Take an old spark plug and knock all the ceramic out of it. You should be able to look right through it. Go to your favorite parts house and procure a grease fitting with a half inch base. Screw the grease fitting into what's left of the spark plug. Screw the assembly into the spark plug hole you just filled with oil. Get your grease gun and pump grease into the cylinder. It's going to break free in a hurry. You're going to have to take it apart to get the grease out, but you won't be breaking up any pistons trying to get them out.
                              Marty (in Mississippi)
                              XS1100SG
                              XS650SK
                              XS650SH
                              XS650G
                              XS6502F
                              XS650E

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