Rotella oil

[buggrin]

In an old thread some guys said plain old Rotella was the trick, so I made a note, taped it to the old Honda oil bottle, and just bought a gallon of 30wt. Now, after rereading the articles I'm having second thoughts that maybe I didn't write enough info on the note. I seem to remember the users saying NON-multi vis, but would like to check before pouring it in. Should it be straight 30 wt, or 10W40 Rotella?

For the last couple thousand miles I can hear a little bottom end knock after the engine heats up, so I'm thinking maybe a little higher viscosity may fill those 50 thousand mile gaps a little better. It's been running on the Honda 10w40 stuff for quite a few years now.

[wildbill]

Re:Rotella oil

The only kind of Rotella oil I have seen is 15wt40.I don`t know what is going on{your situtation} but that oil should work good. What I understand is 30wt is to thin.Anybody have any ideas? Hope this helps

[Jerry]

Although most commonly found in the 15W-40 viscosity, Rotella is available in straight weights as well. I've been using the 15W-40 in my XJ (and other vehicles) since 1999 and see no reaon to change. Riding temps range from below freexing (about 23 degrees F) to well over 100 degrees F. I change oil and filter about every 3K miles. Many of these miles were put on while pulling my trailer (about 170 - 180 pounds fully loaded) and riding solo. When I pulled the tranny covers last year to do the 2nd gear fix I found almost no sludge, varnish, metal chips, or other stuff in the pan. (Bike had about 45K on it.)

I'ld go with the milti-viscosity oil, but since you have the straight 30 I would use it and change over at the next 3K oil change.

[Robert Haller]

I have only used the 15W-40 Rotella.

[TopCatGr58]

Well,

I agree with the Multi-Visc oils vs. the single weights, but I also would be a bit more worried about your bottom end knock!! If you've got a connecting rod that's getting loose, I'd look into replacing the bearings before you end up with a piston rod out the side of your case!! Or spinning a bearing and really scoring up the crank where you would then need to replace it completely!

Are you sure it's a bottom end noise, and not valve train noise? Have you taken a long wooden rod and used it like a stethoscope to listen to the different parts of the engine to determine where you can hear this "knock" the loudest??

I live in the moderate south, temps don't get too cold, and so I run a 20-50 range vs. the thinner for more northern latitudes!

Good Luck! T.C.

[buggrin]

Bottom end knock

Top Cat et al--

Yes, I'm a little worried about the noise. It isn't really a loud or distinct rod knock but a slight increase in the noise level when the engine warms up at highway speed -- 50 - 60 mph. The frequency definitely changes with engine speed and temp. It only does it intermittent when pulling alone easy. Up hill, accelerating, faster, or going down hill it is dead quiet. The last time the oil was changed the noise seemed to subside for 500 or so miles. The articles say that the majority of viscosity loss occurs in the first 800 so I'm thinking it's something on the border line altho it may be increased exhaust noise from the headers since I recently changed from OEM to 4 into 2 aftermarkets.

There's no way I can get my head down near the case to try to find where it's coming from and it does not seem to be getting louder (in the past 2000 miles) so I'm just going with it until something changes or it sounds like something more specific. If anybody has any ideas I'd sure appreciate hearing them.....

Thanks for the replys -- guess I'm back to Tractor Supply to multi vis. It took me a month to find a place that sold straight 30 wt. Oh well.

[wildbill]

I wonder what octane gas are you running in your bike?Does the noise sound like a spark knock or a ping?Check it might be something like that or something along those lines.

[mitch]

Exhaust ?

I had a slight exhaust leak at the head and i thought it sounded like a knock in the motor. Did this just start after you changed the exhaust? You might look real close at that . Get a buddy to cover both pipes when the bike is running as you check up front . Just a thought Good Luck...........................MITCH

[buggrin]

Mitch/Bill

Both good ideas -- had not thought of the preignition knock. Next tankfull will be higher octane as a check. As to the exhaust noise -- well, when I put the Jardine 4 into 2 on there were a couple of leaks that sounded a lot like this, but more torque and position adjustments fixed those leaks.. I'm wondering if the thinner header pipes (OEM were a lot heavier) aren't transmitting some exhaust noise resonance. In either case (ping or leaking exhaust noise) wouldn't the noise be happening more during heavier accelerations instead of the constant pulling on flats at 50 to 60 mph?

I been riding this horse since 1978 and just sprung for some Speigler brake lines, new K491 rubber, and all M/C and caliper rebuild kits (with pistons). The engine would figure to let go just after spending all this money so I'm probably running more than a little paranoid.

Thanks all for the hand holding.

[mitch]

Ya could

Try putting the old exhaust back on just to check. Ya know ya love wrenching on that old bike . ................MITCH

[CMA1]

To check the resonance theory.... on the pipes....
Get some hi-temp material cloth (asbestos used to be good now??? can't get it I don't think) and wrap it around the pipes a cpouple times (only a 2 or 3 in. wide piece) and use a SS worm clamp to snug it to the pipe. That creates a 'damper' that will either silence the resonance or change the frequency.
Just a Thought...

[skids]

Re: Bottom end knock

It could be running a bit lean after it warms up. You say it knoks when accelerating up hills and suck? Maybe a little knocking on acceleration from stop signs? Try using a grade of octane a bit higher an see if it continues. I am talking outside of my expertise, but that is what I would try first. The other thing I would mention is that straight weight oils do not have polymers that can break down quickly and reduce viscosity to the first number. (ie 15W-30 becomes 15W oil when the polymers wear out). I don't think the noise is an "oil problem."

Originally posted by buggrin
Top Cat et al--

slight increase in the noise level when the engine warms up at highway speed -- 50 - 60 mph. The frequency definitely changes with engine speed and temp. It only does it intermittent when pulling alone easy. Up hill, accelerating, faster, or going down hill it is dead quiet. (snip)I recently changed from OEM to 4 into 2 aftermarkets.

[skids]

Re: Re: Bottom end knock

That should have been written as, "when accelerating up hills and such." I am the absolute worst proof reader in history and I swear, I DO try to get it right before I hit the SEND button! =:-/

Originally posted by skids
when accelerating up hills and suck?

[buggrin]

Loss of viscosity

That was what I remembered from prior oil threads and articles -- that the multivis oils tended to get lower over time. Maybe the straight 30 wt would go longer without thinning, but I took it back and got some Pennzoil 20W50 instead. The manual sez 10W40 and I hate to second guess the engineers (since I was one in a previous life -- before retiring), but since it's hot here in Dixie, no prob.

It turned much cooler yesterday (55F) & while riding it sure seemed like the noise took much longer to start and only happened in a smaller range of conditions -- accelerating, speed, etc. It's always occured only after the engine is hot -- real hot, and this confirms the temperature related part. Again, remember this is a fairly subtle noise -- I can't even hear it unless I'm wearing a helmet. Surely not the clunking that comes out of a serious rod knock.

Have not tried higher octane gas yet, but will in next tankfull. I'll do that before changing oil & report back. Your idea of running a little lean may have merit cause since it was new It consistently get 45 to 50 mpg riding 2 up with a Vetter type fairing and does some pinging after extended 80 mph running on hot days after pulling off the freeway into regular city traffic. Them Jardine headers sure didn't take long to blue up.

[jacuff1]

Kinda sounds like carbon build-up in the head. This would make the compression ratio higher which could cause "spark knock", aka pre-ignition. You can confirm this by going to the highest octane gas available. If the knock goes away, you've found your problem. Then I would buy some combustion chamber cleaner (there are different brands) and run it thru with a couple of tank-fulls of fuel and it should take care of the problem.

John