Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

need help and i'm on the road

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • need help and i'm on the road

    I left WI yesterday and I want to hit the two Western corners of the States. See all the cool things in between. Today the engine started leaking oil at a pretty fast rate... about a quart in 200 miles.

    It looks like it is coming from the top middle. Here is a picture of where I think it is coming from.


    Right now I am in Fairmont, MN staying at a motel so I could get online access and figure out what is the best way to fix it.

    I think it needs a new head gasket, is that correct? Is that something that I can do myself on the road with minimal tools (maybe I can find some help or someone to lend me their garage?) or do I need to shell out the money and bring it in to someone? I don't even want to know how much that would cost.

    Any advice is appreciated right now. Thanks.
    Last edited by thebottle; 06-12-2011, 12:00 PM.
    1980 XS1100SG
    1998 KLR 650

  • #2
    Look at the front side and check out the cam chain tensioner. Usually when it is at the back of the fins in the middle like that the cct is actually the thing leaking. It just blows through and then you see it in the back.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah, the cam chain tensioner does leak but never this fast and not in that location but now that you mention it I think you are correct. I never thought of it blowing through to the back like that and I think it is leaking faster because I am cruising at 75-80mph which brings the RPMs up to about 5k so that is most likely why it is leaking faster? Is that right?

      Wow, that makes me so much happier to realize this because it is not as big of a problem then.
      1980 XS1100SG
      1998 KLR 650

      Comment


      • #4
        I wouldn't say that is isn't a big deal. you are still dumping oil out at a reasonably fast rate! It still needs to get fixed asap!

        Then you need to see WHY it is leaking. Is it the little side oring that failed? Is it the front plug that is leaking? Is it the main gasket leaking? IS IT LOOSE?!?!?!
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment


        • #5
          Well, I mean that I won't have to tear the engine apart to fix it. It just stopped raining so I am going to go take a look at it. I'll report back.
          1980 XS1100SG
          1998 KLR 650

          Comment


          • #6
            Those plugs at the front of the CCT are a pain and frequently leak.

            In answer to your other question, I would never contemplate doing a head gasket when away from home, based in a motel. No way! But you're not going to need to
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment


            • #7
              Alright so it is leaking pretty fast from a bolt above the CCT and also slowly from the middle of the CCT.



              Any advice on how to fix? Can I take that top bolt out and get away with RVT or some type of epoxy to stop it? What about the middle of the CCT? It looks like the previous owner gobbed RVT all around it except for the spots that it leaks, lol.
              1980 XS1100SG
              1998 KLR 650

              Comment


              • #8
                thebottle,

                get some Permatex 1 Minute gasket at the local autoparts store. I have used it in a emergency and works great. All you have to do is apply per the instructions. Don't have to let it cure. Hope that helps you.
                Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.

                ATGATT, It could save your life!

                1980 XS 1100SG
                Dyna 3 Ohm Hi Output Coils
                Pod Filters
                DynoJet Kit
                T.C.'s Fuse Block
                Slip Streamer Turbo Windshield
                Custom Tank and Side Cover Decals
                V-Max Auto CCT

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by thebottle View Post
                  Alright so it is leaking pretty fast from a bolt above the CCT and also slowly from the middle of the CCT
                  That nut above the CCT is the front bolt for the cylinder head, so you may have a cylinder head problem, I think.
                  XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    No oil pressure there though. It's the cam chain tunnel.

                    If you scrape all the silicone off of there, some hardening form a gasket or epoxy sould stop the hemoraging.

                    clean aroud it real well and possibly even sand a bit so the stuff has a good surface to stick to.
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I have it cleaned and sealed and waiting until tomorrow for it to set and see if it worked or not. Thanks for the help.
                      1980 XS1100SG
                      1998 KLR 650

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        As James said, that bolt/nut above the CCT is one of the 2 head bolts/nuts that secure the head from underneath. But they don't usually leak. I would look farther up from there, I'm suspecting the valve cover and it's gasket, you should check the bolts and tighten them if found loose. Once home you may need to replace the valve cover gasket/ or use gasket maker sealant alone. Hope the new application of the RTV on the CCT plug provides the stop gap seal you'll need to continue your trip.

                        T.C.
                        T. C. Gresham
                        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                        History shows again and again,
                        How nature points out the folly of men!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If that don't work......clean that silicone mess off of there......WITHOUT removing tensioner.....stop at a Napa before your next nitely stop and get a bottle of IndianHead copper shelac and a can of CRC BrakeKleen(it on sale, $2.18),a small wire brush. Scrape off what you can, then wire brush where all that mess is and spray with BrakeKleen, let evaporate dry, and brush some IndianHead all around and on that tensioner, let set all nite........should work till you get home. If plug in front on tensioner starts to leak, stop, get a bottle water, Pepsi, whatever, drink the product and put the cap over front of tensioner and hose claamp it on there.......When you get home, ****-can that tensioner, following procedure here, and put in a auto-tensioner before that stock POS causes chain to jump time and the oil leak WILL be the least of your worries!
                          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by motoman View Post
                            When you get home, ****-can that tensioner, following procedure here, and put in a auto-tensioner before that stock POS causes chain to jump time and the oil leak WILL be the least of your worries!
                            +1 on that!
                            Greg

                            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                            ― Albert Einstein

                            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                            The list changes.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              looks to me like your base gasket is leaking. mine leaks in the same exact spot. what i did to confirm and somewhat repair;
                              1. clean well with carb cleaner
                              2. apply aerasol foot spray to area of suspected leak
                              3. drive a little while to confirm leak
                              4. reclean with carb cleaner
                              5. apply gorilla glue with small artists piant brush

                              this will not stop leak, but will considerably slow it.
                              testing 1-2-3

                              1980 1100 mns

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X