Motion Pro valve tool

[James England]

Hi Folks. Is the Motion Pro valve tool any good? The one that keeps the shim buckets down when doing the shims? I wondered if it's a lot of strain to be putting on one bolt-hole (or do you use both holes on the tool at the same time?). I'd hate to use the tool and find the strain cracks the bolt hole.

Are there other tools around that will do the same job? Or is it better to remove the camshafts?

[BA80]

I have and use that tool James. It takes a little practice to learn to use it but it works well for me. The bolt you use is long enough that it doesn't put enough strain on the bolt hole to be a problem.

Some prefer to loosen the cams which is OK but I would rather repair a valve cover bolt hole than a cam cap bolt hole because of an error in judgement.

But, that's just me.

[James England]

Some prefer to loosen the cams which is OK but I would rather repair a valve cover bolt hole than a cam cap bolt hole because of an error in judgement.

Aren't the cam caps held on by nuts, screwed onto studs?

[CatatonicBug]

Lots of folks don't like the tool, but I kinda wonder if it's because they got a mal-formed one or it's just user error. I got mine and once I figured out how it worked, I had no problems at all with it. I suggest using a different, shorter bolt to hold it down (not the actual valve cover bolts).

[BA80]

Aren't the cam caps held on by nuts, screwed onto studs?

Yes, but you have to loosen and retorque 10 of them each time which multipies the possibility accidentally stripping a stud or nut or pulling a stud by 10.

[DGXSER]

James, yes the cam caps are held down by nuts on threaded studs the caps drop over. I have used the official Yamadog valve tool before. Went through all my shims. Took some time and on one valve I could not get to work not matter how I tried.

I recently went through the valves on Banshee and used the cam caps method. Do all you measuring first, then remove the CCT and the caps from one cam. You can now lift the cam up to get the shims out and replace as needed. Finish one cam, reinstall the nuts and washers, remove the other and repeat. this method is MUCH faster and simpler in my opinion.

[petejw]

I recently went through the valves on Banshee and used the cam caps method. Do all you measuring first, then remove the CCT and the caps from one cam. You can now lift the cam up to get the shims out and replace as needed. Finish one cam, reinstall the nuts and washers, remove the other and repeat. this method is MUCH faster and simpler in my opinion.

hey don,
i do it the same way, but leave the cct in place and remove the center chain guide, theres just enuff slack in the chain for the cam to rise, without the worry of the chain slipping. jat

[crazy steve]

You can get one that's not formed right; I bought one, and it's going to need some grinding on it before it will work. I still haven't used it (or modified it for use), as I've found that removing the caps is just as fast and gives access to all the valves. In fact, I pulled both cams so was able to do all the valves at once. This is a good thing IMO, as it allows you to swap the shims freely. The SG needed 6 of the 8 valves adjusted, but after moving the various shims around, I only needed to get 2. This would have been a laborious process if doing them one at a time...

[BA80]

Opinions vary.

Generally you only need to adjust 1 or 2 per cam if you check them regularly.

[James England]

You can get one that's not formed right; I bought one, and it's going to need some grinding on it before it will work.

I did hear that before somewhere on the forum. I'd feel slightly aggrieved to buy any tool which needs grinding and tweaking before it will work. I usually vote with my wallet on sub-standard things.

Having read the responses, I think I will go for the cam -caps off approach. I'm probably wrong and being over-cautious but a possibly sub-standard tool which uses a very thinly cast part of the engine to hold down a hefty spring kind of puts me off. I can imagine tightening that bolt, watch the valve spring being held down, then hear a CRACK! as the weak spot in the head casting manifests itself. Plus the possibility of having a 'senior moment' and rotating the engine the wrong way.....

I've stripped three heads on donor engines and never once found that the cam cap studs have unscrewed from the head, by the way. In every case, the nuts came off easily.

In any event, there's my winter maintenance sorted out.

Thanks everyone