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  • Shim values

    I'd appreciate some help, I just measured my valve clearance on my XJ11 & the normal ranges in inches are:

    Exhaust: .008 ~ .010

    Intake: .004 ~ .006

    My measurements (No, not my chubby gut...):

    Intake #1 = .003 shim is 285
    Intake #2 = .005 shim is 280 (is OK)
    intake #3 = .004 shim is 280
    Intake #4 = .004 shim is 280

    Exhaust #1 = .009 shim unchecked (is OK)
    Exhaust #2 = .008 shim is 275
    Exhaust #3 = .008 shim is 290
    Exhaust #4 = .010 shim is unchecked (is OK)

    I'd like to replace the shims on intake 1,3,4 and exhaust 2,3.

    I have them out and would like to exchange them for the proper ones
    but I'm not sure which values would be the best to put in at
    this time but probably the next size or two sizes lower.

    What would be my best choices for shim values with these measurements?

    Thanks!
    82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

  • #2
    hi KA1J,

    each .5mm shim is equal to 2 thou,

    personally id change the intake 1 to 280 that would make it 5 thou,

    and even tho the ex valve 4 is in spec id drop it down to 8 thou
    with the next size shim up.

    u want the gaps to be as close as possible with each other,

    i know this probably conflicts with some but
    i also like the gaps to be on the smaller side of the specs for better
    performance, as long as the valves havent been lapped recently
    then they shouldnt close up any time soon.
    pete


    new owner of
    08 gen2 hayabusa


    former owner
    1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
    zrx carbs
    18mm float height
    145 main jets
    38 pilots
    slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
    fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

    [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

    Comment


    • #3
      One other thing, I've discovered is the short side of the lobes are not exactly what I expected. I thought the point opposite from the tip of the lobe was the widest point to measure but I get my widest measurements a bit off to the side from that.

      For instance, I just exchanged the shim in #1 exhaust with the shim from #4 and I find it indeed now measures .008 but not at 180 degrees from the tip. I get this measurement when the cam is rotated ~10-40 degrees off the line following the path the shim travels. This is where I get my .008 reading. If I point the tip the farthest from the shim I read .005.

      I've been taking my measurements from wherever I find the widest gap, do I need to take them from where the tip is pointed the farthest from the shim or have I been measuring correctly by finding the widest point?

      Don't tell me I have bad cams... Do I?
      Last edited by KA1J; 06-08-2011, 09:00 PM.
      82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

      Comment


      • #4
        I would say you have worn cams not bad ones. The gap from the factory should be consistent for the until you see the lobe start being formed. So the side opposite the lobe should be the widest gap, if yours is not, then your cams have some wear on them. The part I would be interested in, is how much difference do you get between the opposite point and your widest gap?
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

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        • #5
          I just checked mine again.

          Intake:

          #1 = .004
          #2 = .004
          #3 = .004
          #4 = .003

          Exhaust:

          #1 = .009
          #2 = .008
          #3 = .008
          #4 = .007

          Do I simply reshim #4, or do all but #1 exhaust. I'm replacing the cam chain, too.
          Marty (in Mississippi)
          XS1100SG
          XS650SK
          XS650SH
          XS650G
          XS6502F
          XS650E

          Comment


          • #6
            i know this probably conflicts with some but
            i also like the gaps to be on the smaller side of the specs for better
            performance

            I'm on the other side of the fence. I'm betting that 99 (or 100) out of 100 people will never be able to notice any performance difference in a valve shimmed to the max vs the minimum clearance spec. I'm also betting that there's very few that just really love to get back inside that valve cover once they ever get it good and leak-free.

            I like to set 'em and forget about 'em for 50k+ miles, so I set them as close to max as possible without going over. I don't want to be 10 or 20k miles down the road.. wondering if that gap is getting too close and worrying about burning a valve.. etc. I ride to get away from hassles and worry.

            Just my 2 cents. Not saying Pete is wrong in any way.. it's just our train of thoughts are on a different track.
            Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

            You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

            Current bikes:
            '06 Suzuki DR650
            *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
            '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
            '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
            '81 XS1100 Special
            '81 YZ250
            '80 XS850 Special
            '80 XR100
            *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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            • #7
              OK Tod, I'm not having fun doing this, so I'm going to break the chain, pull the cams, and shim all of them out to the max.
              Marty (in Mississippi)
              XS1100SG
              XS650SK
              XS650SH
              XS650G
              XS6502F
              XS650E

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
                OK Tod, I'm not having fun doing this, so I'm going to break the chain, pull the cams, and shim all of them out to the max.
                That would be my choice too; as much hassle as it is to adjust these, the longer the time between the better. I also use the 'early' intake spec (.006-.008") across the board, regardless of the year. The little extra noise tells me everything is happy...
                Last edited by crazy steve; 03-09-2012, 01:25 PM.
                Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                '78E original owner - resto project
                '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                '82 XJ rebuild project
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                '79F parts...
                '81H more parts...

                Other current bikes:
                '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
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