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  • Stator-wet or dry?

    I have developed a small oil leak behind my stator cover. I can't remember if the stator is oil bathed or not. If yes it's just a gasket leaking, if no then I have a cranshaft seal leaking. Any thoughts?
    US Army 1986-1991

    1979 1100 Special (on the road after 16 years!)
    1983 GS300L (wifes ride)
    1985 Super Glide
    2012 Super Glide

  • #2
    Originally posted by old_chopper View Post
    I have developed a small oil leak behind my stator cover. I can't remember if the stator is oil bathed or not. If yes it's just a gasket leaking, if no then I have a cranshaft seal leaking. Any thoughts?
    The stator is not oil bathed. It runs dry. It looks like you have a crankshaft end seal leak. If it were my bike, I'd run it until it got bad enough to warrant doing the major job of replacing the crank end seals.... plus, given the size of the task, any other seals I encountered on the way!

    I wonder if anyone has a tech tip about replacing the seal from the outside? I know from stripping three engines that the seals are pretty hefty and have a lug round them that engages in the crankcases. It would be nice if there were some way of stopping the leak, maybe by prising out as much as possible of the old seal and using a non-lugged 'usual' oil seal. No doubt the combined wisdom of this forum will have something to say....
    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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    • #3
      as james has stated, there is an oil seal that has a lip
      on it that leaks that sits behind the rotor, to replace this type of seal
      with a genuine seal u would need to seperate the cases,
      but u can buy an after market seal with out this lip and replace the worn one,
      i havent got a part number but im sure some1 soon will chime in
      with the details.
      pete


      new owner of
      08 gen2 hayabusa


      former owner
      1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
      zrx carbs
      18mm float height
      145 main jets
      38 pilots
      slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
      fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

      [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

      Comment


      • #4
        And there's this.
        Also, there is a taper fit oil galley plug at the bottom of the engine case. If it was leaking oil, you might want to pull that out and replace the O-ring with a new one. Do not by any means run or turn the engine with the alt cover off, as the oil pressure will blow that plug out and spew oil everywhere. The only thing holding that plug in is the tightened down alt cover.
        http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...65&postcount=2
        Guessing is fun, take it off and find out.
        79SF
        XJ11
        78E

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        • #5
          Replacing that seal is not hard at all. The hardest part for me was finding a bolt the right size to remove the rotor from the shaft. Once that's done, you can just pry out the old one and press in the new one. Do check the galley plug seal first though. It may be as simple as replacing that o-ring.
          1980 XS850SG - Sold
          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
          -H. Ford

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
            Replacing that seal is not hard at all. The hardest part for me was finding a bolt the right size to remove the rotor from the shaft. Once that's done, you can just pry out the old one and press in the new one. Do check the galley plug seal first though. It may be as simple as replacing that o-ring.
            Did you have the cases split to do this? I was hoping the seal was put in from the outside and could be replaced easily.
            Thanks for the replies!
            US Army 1986-1991

            1979 1100 Special (on the road after 16 years!)
            1983 GS300L (wifes ride)
            1985 Super Glide
            2012 Super Glide

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            • #7
              Nope. No case-splitting required. The old seal gets destroyed in the removal process, but it comes out with only a small amount of persuasion. The new seal goes in with even pressure all the way around, and fits right in. Like I said, the hardest part was removing the rotor.
              1980 XS850SG - Sold
              1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
              Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
              Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

              Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
              -H. Ford

              Comment


              • #8
                Cool. I'll tear into it tomorrow evening and see what I find. My HD is supposed to stain the floor, not the Yamaha!
                US Army 1986-1991

                1979 1100 Special (on the road after 16 years!)
                1983 GS300L (wifes ride)
                1985 Super Glide
                2012 Super Glide

                Comment

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