Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Turn Signal Switch

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Turn Signal Switch

    I've been trying to find out why my auto cancel isn't working. I've read a number of posts as well as Mike Harts "Yamaha's Auto Cancelling Turn Signals"

    As he says when the signal is turned and then the bike turned off and then back on again the signal is still active. Mine does that as well. And on mine with the bike off, if I push the switch to turn the signal on and then power the bike, the signal is active as well

    Mike says that on a good switch the copper leaves are only in contact with the switch lever when pushed fully to one side or the other. He just bent the leaves a little and problem solved.



    However, This is not my situation. The copper leaves are not in constant contact with the switch lever.

    So I'm wondering about the white block that slides when the switch lever is moved.



    It can be reset to centre by pushing the lever in. Is this normal operation? I can't think why not, but I can't figure out why my signal stays active even when the power is off. Or is THAT normal operation? I don't think it is.

    Advice? Comments?

    Thanks
    Bob
    1979 XS1100F
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Before you start doing anything with the switch-on my SG -I don't know if yours functions the same but i had to replace the auto cancelling relay under the seat as i took apart the switch too but the problem still existed.The relay i got brand new solved the problem.
    1980 XS1100 SG
    Inline fuel filters
    New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
    160 mph speedometer mod
    Kerker Exhaust
    xschop K & N air filter setup
    Dynojet Recalibration kit
    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

    Comment

    • #3
      What is happening to you is COMPLETELY normal operation. If you turn the key completely off and turn on the signals, no lights should flash. However, as soon as you turn the key to anything BUT the "off" position, the signals should start flashing. They will not stop flashing until you push the lever IN or travel the normal "cancelling" distance (speedo must be connected) to activate the canceller. Sounds like yours is working perfectly!
      1980 XS850SG - Sold
      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
      -H. Ford

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
        What is happening to you is COMPLETELY normal operation. If you turn the key completely off and turn on the signals, no lights should flash. However, as soon as you turn the key to anything BUT the "off" position, the signals should start flashing. They will not stop flashing until you push the lever IN or travel the normal "cancelling" distance (speedo must be connected) to activate the canceller. Sounds like yours is working perfectly!
        My F model doesn't do that. If I turn off the key with the flashers flashing and then turn the key on again, they don't flash. Same goes if the key is off and I slide the flasher switch on and then turn the key.... there's no flashing until the switch is moved again. ie turning off the ignition key 'zeroes' everything. Mine is a UK one though and the wiring looms do differ from the US ones in several ways.
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by James England View Post
          My F model doesn't do that. Mine is a UK one though and the wiring looms do differ from the US ones in several ways.
          So why bother posting up?

          What's up with us lot over here?

          Noticed you have also found a supplier for the rear wheel bearings and you ain't giving us lads a look in.

          Well good for you.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by FJ111200 View Post
            So why bother posting up?

            What's up with us lot over here?

            Noticed you have also found a supplier for the rear wheel bearings and you ain't giving us lads a look in.

            Well good for you.
            Chill out!!
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by FJ111200 View Post
              What's up with us lot over here?

              Noticed you have also found a supplier for the rear wheel bearings and you ain't giving us lads a look in.
              You are more than welcome to bearings if I can get any, although I don't actually have a supplier as yet. The problem is that they will not manufacture relatively small quantities.

              Please don't take it personally that I haven't posted on the UK site. I'm a committed Christian and avoid blasphemy and swearing etc. I find it demoralising. Like I say, it's nothing personal and you are very welcome to have bearings if I succeed in getting any.
              XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

              Comment

              • #8
                I am astonished!

                I hardly believe that our brethren on the UK site would engage in such bawdy behaviour...

                I had envisioned a much more proper discussion:

                "Hate to bother any of you chaps, but I seem to be in a bit of a sticky wicket and needed advice. "

                "No problem at all. How may I be of service?"

                etc. etc. etc.

                Now I find out they are worse than us. Kinda like finding out your parents pick their nose.

                Really James we are glad you picked us and welcome your different perspective like we welcome our friends in NZ and AUS.

                Dunno why FJ seemed so grumpy this time.

                John
                John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

                Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
                '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
                Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

                "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...
                X