Electrical gremlin

[vileneeds]

Posted this in another post but I think it warranted being seen by those who do not read the older threads.

Does anyone have the electrical schematics for this? I wired the turn signals and they worked but did not blink. I wired the brake to them so they would light up with the brake and they work too well and stay lit. Any suggestions?

Thank you

[crazy steve]

You can't tie the brake and turn sigs together unless you use a 'trailer convertor' to switch the various inputs; without one, your problem is the result. If you do use a convertor, you'll lose the auto shut-off feature and have to swap the Yamaha flasher unit for a two-wire car unit.

Wiring diagrams are in the back of the FSM; you can download this by clicking the link in Catatonic Bug's sig line. Look for one of his posts...

[vileneeds]

Right. So undo the the brake light hook ups, then any idea about the blinkers not blinking?

[crazy steve]

The turn signal circuit on these bikes is really touchy about voltage, connections, etc. First, if the turns light up (including the dash indicators) when switched to left or right but don't blink, go through and clean all the connections, lamp sockets, switch contacts, etc. Do you still have the OEM Yamaha flasher? These are very expensive to replace, but are also touchy about the connected load. Most 1157 or 1156 lamps (commonly used for replacements) have a slightly different wattage compared to a 'motorcycle' lamp (22 watts vs 27 for bikes). If after cleaning, they still don't blink and you don't have 'bike' lamps in there, replace the lamps with bike-specific lamps. Even after all this, sometimes they won't blink until voltage gets above 13 volts (or more), so if the bike isn't running they won't blink, although this usually indicates that all the connections still aren't as good as they should be.

You could also have a bad flasher. Again, these can be replaced with a two-wire car unit (the 'electronic' versions are the best choice here) but the auto shut-off will quit working. It is possible to carefully disassemble the stock flasher and clean/polish the contacts inside and restore them to use.

[vileneeds]

Thank you, I had not started it for the checks. got a part number for the bulbs handy? I got the 1157 in there right now. I did not know it was the touchy.

[CatatonicBug]

JAT - Remember that the rear turn signals cannot be wired as running lights (on all the time) unless you get red lenses for them.

[crazy steve]

Thank you, I had not started it for the checks. got a part number for the bulbs handy? I got the 1157 in there right now. I did not know it was the touchy.

I've never seen a consistant part number on these; each motorcycle brand has an individual number. But I've gotten these from both Yamaha and Harley dealers (auto parts stores don't have them AFAIK); you can tell them apart from the car types by the third filament support in the middle of the filament. They've usually cost about $4 each...

Not all bikes are this bad, but some are. But if you're trying to keep the OEM flasher and the auto shut-off feature, these can be the hoops you have to jump through. Guys have installed LED lights in only the dash indicators, and the change in load was enough to make the lights stop flashing.

And 'Bug is correct; if you're running dual-filament lights in the rear for turns/running lights, you have to have red lenses installed.

[vileneeds]

Lenses are red. Thatnk you for the heads up there too. So I got all the kinks out and took it for a ride. Got a 1/4 mile from the house and i heard my fuses pop one at a time until the bike went all quiet on me. What range of aperage should i be using? I still have th tube type and they are no longer in the box but in an after market rig. Matbe they are not rugged enough for the bike?