cam chain questions

[mack]

What would be the measurement from the face of the cam chain tensioner housing back to the metel piece, that you would replace the chain at. Second question, is the travel for the tensioner plungers the same between the auto's and the oem's?

[TADracer]

Dont know about the second part of your question as I use a manual CCT but, the distance from the gasket surface to the metal surface on the chain guide is +/- 1 5/8" on my machine. I recently installed a new chain and the measurement was still about the same. If you are trying to decide if its time to change the chain, if you are near the end of the plunger travel, its time.

[mack]

thanx,

That is exactly what I wanted to know. I can figure out the second part myself.

[bikerphil]

Mack, the Venture/Vmax tensioner has more travel than the OEM, you can probably get a bit more chain life with the Venture/Vmax tensioner mod.

[motoman]

"I recently installed a new chain and the measurement was still about the same." /Hmmm...interesting, maybe another indicator of stock tensioner not holding along with flat portion of shaft only showing approx. 1/4" of travel use from set bolt indentations over 30 yrs..........vary interesting.....

[TADracer]

"I recently installed a new chain and the measurement was still about the same." /Hmmm...interesting, maybe another indicator of stock tensioner not holding along with flat portion of shaft only showing approx. 1/4" of travel use from set bolt indentations over 30 yrs..........vary interesting.....

Exactly why I got rid of the OEM tensioner several years ago. It would not hold an adjustment and on the flat side of the plunger there was a definate mark showing where it was sliding back under the pinch bolt. I changed the chain mainly because I had the motor down and in a position where it was easy to put in a new chain. Difference in length of the old and new chain (before stretching) was negligible and I probably could have stayed with the old chain.

[mack]

Be nice to

nail this down for a quick check, rather than having to tear the valve cover off to check when engine still seems noisy after cct adjustment. Mine is fine, but I was thinking after reading of another member having trouble with noise after several adjustments and stripping out the threads by over tightening. If the chain is worn, no amout of adjustment or tightening will get rid of the noise. These bikes are hitting the time when the chains need to be replaced.I'd imagine this will be a hot topic over the next several months. If one doesn't exist already, "checking and replacing cam chain " may be a good thread for the maintenance section.

[motoman]

Tad seems to have already "nailed this down" mack........negligible stretch, as I have always suspected. Mack, as far as noisey after adjustment......likely slipped back a bit after starting and a quick blip of the throttle, least that's what happened to mine on two seperate occasions and not really knowing at the time. I know "stretch" is the common term used, but in actuallity the pins and holes wear over time creating a slight clearance.......and with however many links there is adds up to to "stretch". As I previously stated, once you take adjuster apart and see the set-bolt marks, you'll likely see barely a 1/4" of distance that has set-bolt mark from end to end. Before making the swap, I even filed the flat part of shaft back smooth again, as I could see that since travel was minimal with the adjustment, once bolt was seated, still partially covering previous mark, upon tightening it would follow and "walk" back to where it previously was or close to it. Have seen this happen over the years with many other set-screw type applications. The PROPER use of a set-screw application is to be able to locate two of them 90degrees out from each other. In extreme load or vibration conditions(shaker screen etc. on a rock crusher or hot-plant operation) this is the only way a bearing assembly can be held in place. If sets are 180degrees(opposite) or only one in use it will NOT hold. As a manual adjuster, IMO the shaft should have been left round(more set pressure created because of smaller surface area) and two of them 90degrees out from each other. In doing so, the set bolt don't have to be nearly as tight(hence the cracked or stripped thread housing). Been wanting to post this for a couple of years, and seeing more of this issue coming up was a verification that it was time.

[mack]

love the auto

I love the auto. That was the best piece of advice so far, since I joined this site. Next best maybe upgrading to Geezers volatage regulator, with TC fuse block right up there.

[motoman]

If you havn't done it, TKat's fork brace WILL make a new better handling bike out of it......second best upgrade next to auto CCT........IMO.

[mack]

got one

Yes I've installed one but my carbs are driving me crazy so I haven't actually put too many miles on it with the brace to determine if it does make a difference.