hazard relay

[Nubian]

where can I get a hazard relay switch for my XS11H there is one on ebay but it looks real rough. Are they hard to come by or can they be gotten new?

[cywelchjr]

where can I get a hazard relay switch for my XS11H there is one on ebay but it looks real rough. Are they hard to come by or can they be gotten new?

I'm not aware of any way to get them new. But I've not seen any that couldn't be fixed easily either (not saying they aren't out there). Most of the time, you just need to clean things up and solder the wires back onto the connectors of the switch, they didn't solder them very good back in the day and they corroded and came loose, which keeps the turn signals from working as well as the 4 ways. Just a little quality time spent with a small wire brush, some solder paste, a soldering iron and some solder and they are usually as good as new. I think to replace that switch you have to replace the entire left control pod, it's not available as a separate item (AFAIK it never was) as it's an integral part of that control pod. I've fixed mine once, and I think I've got one wire that I didn't do a good enough job on so I have to open the pod again this weekend and check it out. But to get that switch you would look for the left side switch for I believe an 80 or 81 standard for sure, although I think a special one with work as well but I'm not sure about that (I think they are the same but I'm not sure they are).

[Nubian]

I'm not aware of any way to get them new. But I've not seen any that couldn't be fixed easily either (not saying they aren't out there). Most of the time, you just need to clean things up and solder the wires back onto the connectors of the switch, they didn't solder them very good back in the day and they corroded and came loose, which keeps the turn signals from working as well as the 4 ways. Just a little quality time spent with a small wire brush, some solder paste, a soldering iron and some solder and they are usually as good as new. I think to replace that switch you have to replace the entire left control pod, it's not available as a separate item (AFAIK it never was) as it's an integral part of that control pod. I've fixed mine once, and I think I've got one wire that I didn't do a good enough job on so I have to open the pod again this weekend and check it out. But to get that switch you would look for the left side switch for I believe an 80 or 81 standard for sure, although I think a special one with work as well but I'm not sure about that (I think they are the same but I'm not sure they are).

I meant the relay that sits under the seat. Not the switch on the handle bar. My turn signals work fine but not the 4-way. I'm thinking it's the relay

[Nubian]

do the specials and standards use the same switch?

[Nubian]

I meant the relay that sits under the seat. Not the switch on the handle bar. My turn signals work fine but not the 4-way. I'm thinking it's the relay

do the specials and standards use the same switch?

I meant relay switch.

[crazy steve]

Do check the switch; just because the turns work doesn't mean the hazard switch isn't bad. I just got done rebuilding mine for the SG (yes, the Specials also had the hazards), and two of the three switches I have had a bad contact in that part of the switch. Before you buy a new flasher, check the switch.

Unplug the switch from the harness (both plugs), then with the hazard switch 'on', check for continuity between the dark brown (chocolate), brown/yellow, and dark green wires. If you have good continuity between these, the switch is good. Open, or high ohms (anything over 10 ohms will be high), the switch is bad. It may be a broken wire, it may be a bad contact; you won't know until you open it up. Don't assume if you find a wire off that's the problem; check/clean the contacts too. The contact that seems to go bad is the one connected to the brown/yellow, at least that's the way all mine were...

[cywelchjr]

I meant relay switch.

Ahh, if you find that you need that, any good variable load two prong automotive flasher unit will work there. I prefer and electronic unit for that, cause they are more reliable than a mechanical one, but they cost a tad bit more, but in any case they should run less than $10 for one from auto zone or any other auto parts store (even walmart should have them).

But as crazy steve says, make sure the handlebar switch is good first, cause that is the common cause rather than the flasher (that's a flasher unit not a relay btw). And he is right, it can be corrosion in the switch or loose wires or both, I cleaned the switch at the same time I soldered the wires back on mine, so I don't know if I had a dirty switch as well, as I always assume dirty switches and clean them automatically as part of the maintainence process when working on switches and such.

[Nubian]

Ahh, if you find that you need that, any good variable load two prong automotive flasher unit will work there. I prefer and electronic unit for that, cause they are more reliable than a mechanical one, but they cost a tad bit more, but in any case they should run less than $10 for one from auto zone or any other auto parts store (even walmart should have them).

But as crazy steve says, make sure the handlebar switch is good first, cause that is the common cause rather than the flasher (that's a flasher unit not a relay btw). And he is right, it can be corrosion in the switch or loose wires or both, I cleaned the switch at the same time I soldered the wires back on mine, so I don't know if I had a dirty switch as well, as I always assume dirty switches and clean them automatically as part of the maintainence process when working on switches and such.

Thanks, the reason I was leaning that way was because I removed the flasher and everything else kept working fine w/o it.
But I will go through those checks and advise .
Thanks again,
BTW this site is very similar indeed to my old haunt at simpletractors.com. where the people are very friendly and eager to help. If anyone here is into old iron sub-compact tractors namely Simplicity, Allis-Chalmers and Deutz-Allis check them out

[cywelchjr]

Thanks, the reason I was leaning that way was because I removed the flasher and everything else kept working fine w/o it.
But I will go through those checks and advise .
Thanks again,
BTW this site is very similar indeed to my old haunt at simpletractors.com. where the people are very friendly and eager to help. If anyone here is into old iron sub-compact tractors namely Simplicity, Allis-Chalmers and Deutz-Allis check them out

The flasher has nothing to do with everything else, the switch does, and it can have a problem that makes ONLY the hazard lights not work. You can the flasher in the side, in place of the turn flasher, mine will work my turn signals (only works one way though) which might tell you if it's ok or not.

[crazy steve]

Thanks, the reason I was leaning that way was because I removed the flasher and everything else kept working fine w/o it.

These are two semi-separate circuits, so you can have one work and the other not. The other thing is the hazard switch is in the very bottom of the switch housing, so if any water gets in there, it will collect in the switch...

[Nubian]

The flasher has nothing to do with everything else, the switch does, and it can have a problem that makes ONLY the hazard lights not work. You can the flasher in the side, in place of the turn flasher, mine will work my turn signals (only works one way though) which might tell you if it's ok or not.

will do
Thanks again

[fredintoon]

I meant the relay that sits under the seat. Not the switch on the handle bar. My turn signals work fine but not the 4-way. I'm thinking it's the relay

Hi Eddy,
the flasher clickything under the seat is an el-cheapo from out of a car.
Pull it and short across the terminals it was plugged into.
If the 4-ways come on steady the clickything is fritzed.
If they don't you need to fix the 4-way switch on the handlebar &/or the wiring.

[Nubian]

I should of guessed it, when I bought the bike I remember the flashers working but after I picked it up from the shop for a once over and inspection, they said it did not work luckily it was not needed for a sticker.
Anyway I took the switch apart and low and behold after some wire twisting they worked. Someone must of gone in there before because the hi and low beams are reversed. I'll have to figure that out.
Thanks everyone

[Nubian]

Just sprayed some plastic safe electrical contact cleaner in there and jiggled the switches around a bit and Voila! All works well. At some point later on I will address the Hi/Lo switch issue.
Thanks again everyone

[CatatonicBug]

Just sprayed some plastic safe electrical contact cleaner in there and jiggled the switches around a bit and Voila! All works well. At some point later on I will address the Hi/Lo switch issue.
Thanks again everyone

Chances are, the problem will come back quickly. Until you open that housing up and re-build the mechanism/connections in there, you're just asking for trouble. There is a small contact board in there with several soldered connections on it. It is very common that they need to be re-soldered back on there. Take it all apart, clean the pieces, re-solder ALL the connections (not just the loose ones), then coat it all in dielectric grease before re-assembling.