Rear Brake Pad Replacment XS11 1978

[Peter Brackett]

I am trying to replace the rear breake pad of XS11 1978
the spring bar is in place at top
there are 2 shiny clips at each end of the slot at top were pads need to sit into so the old pads must have been sitting and rubbing on these tabs

but i can't figure out if the pad against the caliper should sit on top of these 2 shiny tabs or down beside them.

but the pads almost fit into the space but not quite on top of the tabs.

Any suggestions.
I can email a pricture to another email address

Thanks
Peter- Calgary

I've had this since new and ridden it from Southern ontatrio to Vancouver Island and down to San Francisco in 1978.
So I try to take good care of it.
Started on 1st crank again this year- incredible.
Great engineering.

[motoman]

Those are stainless steel and allow the pads to slide easily when brakes applied and return smoothly. Top portion of pad backing plate on both ends ride up against those stainless steel tins. Hope that helps or is clear as mud.

[Peter Brackett]

Stainless slides at top for brake pad

thanks for reply
is there a trick to push tem up far enough to lide the caliper pad sideways into its seat
or do you have to just reasonably force it.

does it hlep if you install the outside pad first

Also, is this the only point I should lubricate.
would a little axle grease- just a small amount so it doesn't get on pads- be approrpiate to put there.

I can send a pic if you email peter_brackett@cpr.ca
thanks

[gareth]

I replaced the rear pads on my 79 special last week. I found I couldn't get the "piston" pad in even after pushing the piston back with a c-clamp. I kept on comparing the new pads to the old, convinced they were too big, even filing the edges of the pad in case they were burred. But I was trying to fit the pads with the bracket still attached to the the caliper assembly, which not only was stopping the pads going in, but made it impossible to remove and clean the stainless clips. Once I took off the flat wide plate that engages the pin on the swingarm, it was 'game on'.
Not saying that that is your problem..but it was mine.

[Diskman01]

I can't remove the little retaining screw that holds the inner pad in the caliper. When I pulled the wheel off for a new tire I couldn't get the screw out to re-install the pad. Seemed seized in there. I didn't want to push my luck by removing the caliper so I simply notched the screw hole on the pad so it can slip in without removing the screw.

Will pull the calipers this winter and rebuild.

[Ken Talbot]

I just serviced the rear calipers on Tsunami and Purple Reign without removing the screw. In fact, I never remove the screw when removing rear calipers or fronts on Standards. Instead, I push on the top of the caliper hard enough and long enough to force the piston way back into its bore. This will tilt the caliper quite a bit once you get the piston in far enough. Then, you can sort of rotate the caliper back and lift it, and it will come clear of the retaining screw. Putting the caliper back on is just the reverse of this procedure, wiht no need t mess with the screw. You start sliding the caliper back on, tilted way over at the top. Push down, and you will feel the screw hook back into the slot on the far pad.

While I was doing this, I actually thought this might be a good procedure to document with a short video. Hmm.....

[SFerinTEXAS]

On my rear pads on the SF. I don't use the screw May not be a good idea on STD fronts. Not a problem after 15 K and a second set of shoes(not from wear) on the rear.