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  • Speed Bleeders

    Speaking of Speed Bleeders... Other than bragging rights is there any really good reason to use stainless bleeders? They're twice as expensive as the "standard" variety. Following past habit I'll be bleeding the lines every year & will use teflon tape on the threads so there's no chance of seizing.

    I do have the pump mity-vac so bleeding shouldn't be much of a problem regardless.


    Gary
    82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

  • #2
    strength

    Gary,
    I find feeling a tiny bit more confidence in the strength of the SS bleeder vs a standard "pot metal" one...I've had so many break in past when removing - dissimilar metals create a bond sometimes that is difficult to not break them.

    That being said I bought the Russel bleeders and don't think they are SS - but just wanted the easy 1 person operation. I am not too worried either way since everything on a motorcycle is accessible - on a car not always that way.

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

    Comment


    • #3
      The only reason for buying SS anything is for the corrosion resistance. Stainless is actually not as strong as 'regular' steel; a typical SS bolt is rated lower than a grade 5 steel bolt. With that said, stainless hardware can be a nice upgrade and will keep looking good far longer than conventional plated bits as long as you remember that it's not as strong and use it selectively.

      If you do use stainless bits, it's extremely important that you use anti-seize on all threads, particularly stainless-to-stainless and stainless to aluminum. Stainless galls easily, and I've seen stainless nuts turned onto stainless bolts by hand and then seize/strip when trying to remove. SS to aluminum is nearly as touchy, so always use anti-seize.
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #4
        strength

        "Less than sane" Steve...

        I realize that SS is weaker than regular steel, but I'm not convinced that regular bleeders are made from regular steel... maybe its just because they are hollow, but I've had so many snap off (of course always on a new to me vehicle because nobody treated the threads) and have to be backed out.

        I never had trouble using an extractor though to get them out.

        Agree on antiseize - esp on modern aluminum heads and manifolds with today's vehicles...that bond happens fast.


        Do you ever use teflon tape on bleeders? I haven't but see alot of references to it.

        John
        John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

        Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
        '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
        Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

        "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jwhughes3 View Post
          ...Do you ever use teflon tape on bleeders? I haven't but see alot of references to it.

          John
          It's almost mandatory if you're using a Mitivac for bleeding; if you don't, it will suck air in around the threads and take forever to get a good bleed. With tape and a Mitivac, I can bleed brakes almost as fast as I can pour the fluid into the master cylinder. The tape also works as anti-seize, so it's a twofer...

          If you buy Speedbleeders, most of those I've seen come with coated threads for sealing purposes (usually a teflon spray coating). But if they're uncoated, some tape is in order to make them work right.
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment

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