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  • Clutch problem after replacement

    Hi all,
    I very recently replaced my friction discs and steel plate discs, and now there is no slipping whatsoever. Now the problem is that the clutch won't fully disengage.

    When I had the clutch apart, I noticed what seemed to be at first a staple poking out through a hole in the ...err... clutch hub #2 according to the clymer's manual, if I remember correctly.

    So I started pulling on this thing and apparently it was a wire that went all the way around the hub #2 (i think that's what it was called) and had it off before I realized what I was doing was removing something purposefully put there. The wire was holding on yet another steel disc. So, with the steel disc, it made the order of friction discs and steel discs from inside to the out (left to right) f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s if I remember correctly. I debated it over with myself for sometime after not finding anything about it on the site and put it back in along with my new discs.

    Now that I have everything back together, the clutch will not fully release, even if I have the handlebar side cable adjustment set tight and the clutch side set normal/tight.

    Was it a mistake to put that last steel plate back in or did I put the clutch back together wrong?
    1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
    1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
    http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

  • #2
    If the old friction disks were thin, and the PO just added another steel to make it right, I would tend to think that replacing the friction with new(read thicker) ones, the extra steel plate makes the whole assembly too thick. Maybe someone can measure or calculate the TOTAL thickness of all the plates when stacked. That could help determine if an exytra steel plate is needed or not. Some bikes may need it and some not, depending on the thickness of the steel plates.


    -Justin

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    • #3
      Justin

      Hey Justin are u gonna be able to come to my rally next summer would sure like to meet you, see ya on here all the time >>>MITCH
      Doug Mitchell
      82 XJ1100 sold
      2006 Suzuki C90 SE 1500 CC Cruiser sold
      2007 Stratoliner 1900 sold
      1999 Honda Valkyrie interstate
      47 years riding and still learning, does that make me a slow learner?

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      • #4
        I can't promise anything yet, but I'll see what I can do. I'll check the rallies section to check for the dates.

        -Justin

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey there Snow,

          What you separated was the Clutch Boss Assembly(sub), according the clymers, the thing with all the splines around it that slides down inside the clutch basket to align the plates before you put the Star Pressure plate and springs on!

          "The clutch boss is a sub-assembly with a built-in damper located inside the first clutch plate(steel). Do not disassemble this unit unlesss there is severe clutch chatter. Make sure the retaining ring end(staple like wire) is securely in place."

          The number of plates you quoted, 8 friction and 8 steels with the last steel attached to the clutch boss as the last steel is correct.

          There was a large 2mm thrust washer that should have gone onto the shaft before putting the basket on, and there was a second smaller thrust washer that went just inside the basket beneath the #2pressure plate(the one with the spring shafts), then the Friction and steels and then the clutch boss assembly went into that and against the inner thrust washer, and the final steel that should have been part of the clutch boss assembly. Now if you had an extra steel plate along with the one attached to the clutch boss assembly, then you could have an unneeded extra steel plate!?!?

          Did you soak the frictions in oil before assembling? Are you using extra heavy springs? Did you sand off any varnished oil residue from the steels? You said the engine clutch adjustment was normal/tight....I'm assuming you meant you turned the screw in until it made pressure contact, then backed it out 1/4 turn and then set the lock nut around it without allowing the center rod to turn!? That's about all I can add/ask that could apply!
          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the info - I'm pulling the clutch apart in about 10 minutes after the oil finishes draining and the bike cools down a little more. Thanks for the detailed info TopCat, I do have the feeling I put something in the wrong place.

            The good news is that I have a spare motor I can snag the clutch boss assembly from
            1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
            1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
            http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

            Comment


            • #7
              Well, I had everything in the right order, so I put it all back except I replaced the part in question and now the clutch is releasing correctly.

              As always, thanks for the help
              1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
              1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
              http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

              Comment

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