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  • #1

    Front wheel questions

    I removed the front wheel on my G to have a new tire mounted today and I have a few questions. The speedometer drive that the cable attaches to looks like the cast aluminum is broken on one of the raised areas... It looks like the PO or a shop may have tightened the axle without the drive tangs seated properly? Is this a common problem? Will it cause an inop speedo or bad things to happen?

    Also, the front wheel bearings have grease, put they feel kind of jerky - not smooth. I believe they are sealed and cannot be cleaned, inspected and repacked... correct?

    One more - I saw a service on-line that will grind the stainless steel disk rotors making them all smooth and happy ($50 x 3 = $150)... not necessary? They have a few shallow grooves and are rusty... Scotch-brite pad ok?

    I may be riding in a few weeks if all goes well. Thanks for advice!
    When the horse is dead, dismount.

    Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The bearings are sealed. They are cheap as well. If they are tight and rough, just pop them out and replace them. Probably less than $8 for both of the bearings.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment

    • #3
      rotors

      Barnfresh - I would hesitate to grind away valuable rotor thickness, potentially making the rotor heat faster and affect your braking.

      If you want to make the rotors pretty, maybe find some used? Grooves won't hurt anything - the pads seat into the grooves and everybody has friction and bike stops - no problem.

      Try scotchbriting (is that a verb?) it and see how it looks - $150 seems like a lot of simoleans for grinding....

      BTW - I really like brass brushes chucked in the air drill or die grinder for polishing the rust - is much gentler to steel and chrome than steel wire brushes....


      John
      John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

      Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
      '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
      Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

      "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by Barnfresh View Post
        I removed the front wheel on my G to have a new tire mounted today and I have a few questions. The speedometer drive that the cable attaches to looks like the cast aluminum is broken on one of the raised areas... It looks like the PO or a shop may have tightened the axle without the drive tangs seated properly? Is this a common problem? Will it cause an inop speedo or bad things to happen?

        One more - I saw a service on-line that will grind the stainless steel disk rotors making them all smooth and happy ($50 x 3 = $150)... not necessary? They have a few shallow grooves and are rusty... Scotch-brite pad ok?
        As long as the internal gear spins easily with no binding and the break isn't such that the grease can leak out or crap can get in, the speedo unit will be fine. That locating tang is simply to make it idiot-proof for getting the speedo cable pointed right. Once the axle is tightened, that tang does nothing.

        As far as turning the rotors, John is right; if the rotors are bad enough to need turning (out of round, or really deep grooves), they will probably need replacing. Maroon scotchbrite pads work pretty good for cleaning them up without damaging the surface.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by Barnfresh View Post
          I removed the front wheel on my G to have a new tire mounted today and I have a few questions. The speedometer drive that the cable attaches to looks like the cast aluminum is broken on one of the raised areas... It looks like the PO or a shop may have tightened the axle without the drive tangs seated properly? Is this a common problem? Will it cause an inop speedo or bad things to happen?
          Not familiar with the Standards, so I will leave it to the more informed members opinions there.

          Originally posted by Barnfresh View Post
          Also, the front wheel bearings have grease, put they feel kind of jerky - not smooth. I believe they are sealed and cannot be cleaned, inspected and repacked... correct?
          Not necessarily true, there is a seal over them that can be removed and new grease packed into them, at least on the stock ones. However, if you can feel the notchy movement in the bearings, it may well be to late for grease. For what it cost, the difficulty involved (once you figure out the tricks ) and what is at stake, I would go ahead and replace the bearings. Getting them out is the hardest part. Mine cost me alot more than Nate quoted, more like $24 I think shipped, I got the ALL BALLS brand off an ebay seller. All the parts and seals for the front wheel, both sides.

          [QUOTE=Barnfresh;324651]One more - I saw a service on-line that will grind the stainless steel disk rotors making them all smooth and happy ($50 x 3 = $150)... not necessary? They have a few shallow grooves and are rusty... Scotch-brite pad ok?QUOTE]

          Key to it is to see if they are our of round. As long as they are within spec for out of round, the surface rust and minor scratches will clean up, heck the pads will wear those out over time. These disc are very tough stainless steel so it is almost hard to hurt them.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
            Not familiar with the Standards, so I will leave it to the more informed members opinions there...
            Y'know, I can't for the life of me figure out why Yamaha built two different speedo drives; one for the standards, one for the specials. Other than the different speedo cable hook-up at the drive (requiring different cables), they appear to be all-but-identical. Same thickness, diameter, etc, with the only possible difference being a slight (and I mean slight) change in the angle of the cable when installed (2-3 degrees? If not less, and that may be machining tolerance). I don't see any reason why they couldn't be swapped as long as you use the matching cable...
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

            Comment

            • #7
              Steve, if you try to put a Standard speedo hub on Special forks, the cable won't connect, it hits the lower part of the Special forks below the axle, BTDT.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              ☮

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
                Mine cost me alot more than Nate quoted, more like $24 I think shipped, I got the ALL BALLS brand off an ebay seller. All the parts and seals for the front wheel, both sides.
                If you need the seals yeah go the kit rout. If not then just get the bearings. I got nsk shielded bearings for the 2 front and the rear right bearing for $9 and some cents.
                Nathan
                KD9ARL

                μολὼν λαβέ

                1978 XS1100E
                K&N Filter
                #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                OEM Exhaust
                ATK Fork Brace
                LED Dash lights
                Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
                Green Monster Coils
                SS Brake Lines
                Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                Theodore Roosevelt

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
                  Steve, if you try to put a Standard speedo hub on Special forks, the cable won't connect, it hits the lower part of the Special forks below the axle, BTDT.
                  That's the only thing I didn't check, and you're right, it won't fit..

                  But you can go the other way no problem (special drive to standard forks), so that begs the question; why did they keep making two different drives after the special came out?
                  Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                  '78E original owner - resto project
                  '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                  '82 XJ rebuild project
                  '80SG restified, red SOLD
                  '79F parts...
                  '81H more parts...

                  Other current bikes:
                  '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                  '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                  '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                  Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                  Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Thanks - I ordered the ALL BALLs kit... matter of fact, that would be a good name when it's finally on the road.

                    My rotors will probablly clean up ok, but these would sure look cool...

                    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAH...item45fa93af1f
                    When the horse is dead, dismount.

                    Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Barnfresh View Post
                      Thanks - I ordered the ALL BALLs kit... matter of fact, that would be a good name when it's finally on the road.

                      My rotors will probablly clean up ok, but these would sure look cool...

                      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAH...item45fa93af1f
                      Drill the rotors yourself.
                      Nathan
                      KD9ARL

                      μολὼν λαβέ

                      1978 XS1100E
                      K&N Filter
                      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                      OEM Exhaust
                      ATK Fork Brace
                      LED Dash lights
                      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
                      Green Monster Coils
                      SS Brake Lines
                      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                      Theodore Roosevelt

                      Comment

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