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I'm back - carbs out - humor and a question

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  • I'm back - carbs out - humor and a question

    Hi guys, I took your advise and got the carbs out. I'm using the Clymer manual and it seems pretty good, but it said to pull the carbs out to the left - I could only get them out on the right. Talk about starting off on the wrong foot. Here's a funny quote right out of the manual regarding NOT disassembling the airbox "it is very time consuming and frustrating to reassemble these little monsters so leave them alone". Is that hilarious or what? Some guy writing the manual must have had first hand experience and wrote that before he cooled off

    OK, first question. I think I found what you guys call the "Octy". Its a bunch of vacum and fuel lines attached to a small aluminum box and the carbs. I'm assuming it has something to do with the vacum activated petcocks -am I right? If so, could I get set-up with just two fuel lines coming out of the bottom of the carbs and going right to the petcocks? I would assume if I could I'd have to get new petcocks that are not vacum operated right? Thank you so much for your help so far!
    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

  • #2
    I will assume you have a special since you have the octy and I will further assume you still have a special tank on there as well.

    If you still have the special tank then yes you can just run the lines from the back nipple on the petcocks and just plug the front nipple on the petcocks. The front nipple is prime and the rear nipple is on and reserve.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment


    • #3
      Wow, thank you Nate. I hope I don't end up getting your your collective nerves. I love bikes, but I'm not the greatest wrench and prefer to ask/research before doing anything.

      I apologize that you had to guess on my set-up. I'm going to put this in my tag line.

      Also, I read a big thread on removing the octy. It seems like it's a common practice to have the right petcock operate the two left carbs and vice-versa. Any reason for this?
      '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

      Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

      Comment


      • #4
        Oh, and bye-bye octy. What a mess that thing is. I like simplicity. My other bike has manual petcocks too so I won't forget to turn them off. Plus, by-by airbox - another behemoth. Mikex XS pods on the way and proper jetting to boot. My mind is made up! Don't try to change it!
        '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

        Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

        Comment


        • #5
          It is better to ask and know than to assume (wait that is what I did...) and regret it after you find out.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            As to fuel line routing, the common practice of routing left petcock to righ carbs and vice-cersa is to get plenty of line to add in-line fuel filters, and slack for lifitng th tank for service.

            If you have read amny of those threads you probably read that I do not follow the pack on that method, I go straight out of left petcokc down to the left carbs and vice-versa, and yes I have in-line fuel filters in there, they easily slide between the air intake boots with my stock air box, but since your giving that the boot, yours will be even simpler to make that work.
            Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

            When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

            81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
            80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


            Previously owned
            93 GSX600F
            80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
            81 XS1100 Special
            81 CB750 C
            80 CB750 C
            78 XS750

            Comment


            • #7
              I can not think of one single good reason for tossing the octy!. If for nothing else than the fact it provides one more measure to keep fuel from flowing when not running. It hurts nothing to be on there and offers some protection. Takes almost nothing to maintain it. The fact that it does require more lines and it is a bit confusing to deal with is no big problem. How often do you really have to learn where the lines go or how it works. A few minutes spent researching and all could save an engine from gas in the oil. How bad can that be?
              Anyone can lose their temper and toss it but why? Does it make life simpler to feel that turning off the petcocks manually is better than having the extra protection of the octy? You do what you like but I will be keeping mine on all my bikes. JMHO
              2-79 XS1100 SF
              2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
              80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
              Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rasputin View Post
                I can not think of one single good reason for tossing the octy!. If for nothing else than the fact it provides one more measure to keep fuel from flowing when not running. It hurts nothing to be on there and offers some protection. Takes almost nothing to maintain it. The fact that it does require more lines and it is a bit confusing to deal with is no big problem. How often do you really have to learn where the lines go or how it works. A few minutes spent researching and all could save an engine from gas in the oil. How bad can that be?
                Anyone can lose their temper and toss it but why? Does it make life simpler to feel that turning off the petcocks manually is better than having the extra protection of the octy? You do what you like but I will be keeping mine on all my bikes. JMHO
                Now didn't I say to not talk me out of it?? Seriously, I completely agree that it serves a good function and it is a good safeguard. And you're right, it wouldn't be that often you'd have to mess with it. Nonetheless, I'm leaning toward getting rid of it because I like a simple, minimalistic approach. Having said that, when I wreck my engine from gas in the oil I give you complete permission to give me the "I told you so's"
                '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                Comment


                • #9
                  Figures, just when I go to order Mikes XS 54mm pods - he' out of stock
                  '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                  Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Could always keep the octy in your toolbox so you could use it later if you so choose.
                    Nathan
                    KD9ARL

                    μολὼν λαβέ

                    1978 XS1100E
                    K&N Filter
                    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                    OEM Exhaust
                    ATK Fork Brace
                    LED Dash lights
                    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                    Green Monster Coils
                    SS Brake Lines
                    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                    Theodore Roosevelt

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Me and you think alike Nate, I'm going to keep all the OEM parts just in case.
                      '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                      Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Lot's of guys have blown-off asking one question and done things that led to dozens of questions.

                        The cool thing about this list is that one gets almost real-time replies. One can post a question, go drink a beer, and come back to several answers.

                        Another good idea: skip past my suggestions to someone who knows what he's talking about....
                        "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'd say if you can't get the pods, don't bother cause the others aren't worth bothering with. There are several threads that cover ways to make it really easy to get the carbs in and out with the airbox in place, and it's really easier to tune it with the airbox, and I have read enough stuff out there to be really nervous about the filtering ability of pods based on the filter material type. I've read some of the studies of the particulate levels stopped by gauze type filters, and with the lack of top end parts (things like pistons and rings) I'm more worried about as much filtering as I can get (I have a uni filter in the stock box on mine) rather than looks or sound, I want my engine to last a long time, that includes good filtration on the oil, and I'm thinking about trying synthetic oil for the lower wear characteristics. And I don't buy cheap filters anymore, I pay a bit more for the premium filters, more filter area, generally tighter filtering and more filter area meaning longer engine life.

                          There are a couple of somewhat recently found mods to the airbox that are supposed to allow it to be moved further back and allow the carbs to be taken in and out much easier, and adding the easier tuning AND having the extra support for the carbs (the airbox is 1/2 the carb mounting and support, and if you take them out, you are doubling the load on the carb boot rubbers, increasing the chance of failure of them) which if you're hitting any rough roads you really want to have, if you take the airbox out, you need to supply an alternate support for the back of the carb rack to replace the half of the carb mounting you removed.
                          Cy

                          1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
                          Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
                          Vetter Windjammer IV
                          Vetter hard bags & Trunk
                          OEM Luggage Rack
                          Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
                          Spade Fuse Box
                          Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
                          750 FD Mod
                          TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
                          XJ1100 Front Footpegs
                          XJ1100 Shocks

                          I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hmm, now that's something I hadn't thought of - support for the rear of the carbs. I found K&N pods that are virtually identical to Mikes XS pods, only the best price I could find was about 110 bucks. I'll have to give this more thought.
                            Last edited by 11Rider; 05-15-2011, 04:58 PM.
                            '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                            Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              There are double carb pods. I think they were around 40 a piece.
                              Nathan
                              KD9ARL

                              μολὼν λαβέ

                              1978 XS1100E
                              K&N Filter
                              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                              OEM Exhaust
                              ATK Fork Brace
                              LED Dash lights
                              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                              Green Monster Coils
                              SS Brake Lines
                              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                              Theodore Roosevelt

                              Comment

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