In-line fuel filter & Seafoam & Idle Speed

[Mendizale]

Hello,

I just acquired my first XS1100--a 1979 Special. Everything seems to be running quite well. The carburetor intake rubbers (I don't know what they are called, but I think they allow for fuel air intake to the engine, and seem strong enough to help actually secure the floating carburetors in place. At least they seem to float.) are a bit cracked, but I have applied a compound to seal them for now.

After the bike is warmed up, I have also noticed that my idle is about 1100 or 1200 rpm, but that it can be anywhere from 1500 to 1900 rpm after coming down from some highway miles.

After looking through some posts, it seems people recommend a product called Seafoam, and also in-line fuel filters. My questions are:


Idle speed:
Is what I have described normal?
If not, what should I look into first?


Seafoam:
Is it recommended as maintenance, even if the bike seems fine?
How often should I use it?

In-line filters:
Should I install them?
What kinds should I install?
Where should I get them?
Are there expert tricks to installing them correctly?
Should I install them on both regular lines as well as both reserve lines?

Thanks in advance for your help and patience. I apologize if my English is unclear--I can try to rephrase anything that doesn't make sense!

Mendi

[CatatonicBug]

You mention "floating" carbs? There are rubbers on BOTH sides of the carbs to secure them in place. Do you still have the airbox installed?

Regular idle speed is 1100 rpm. It is common for the rpm to rise when the engine is hot after a long run. It is also common for that to cause the bike to be difficult to start (i.e., stop for gas after 100 miles across the desert, then try to start, but the engine won't fire). Lots of things you can try as far as tuning goes to reduce that affect.

Seafoam is just a fuel system cleaner. It's a good one though. It also works well as a fuel stabilizer if you are letting the fuel sit for a while (winterizing). As for regular use, that is up to you. It's $8/can, so it can get pricy if you use it in every tank, but it won't hurt anything except your wallet. It's good for cleaning SLIGHTLY gummed-up carbs, but if one treated tank worth of fuel doesn't fix the problem, it's time to take the carbs apart and clean them manually.

In-line filters are a good idea. There is only one fuel line that enters the carbs on each side, so that is where they get installed. Look for small filters like these. I got them at Cycle Gear (they had to order them for me).

[Mendizale]

Hello CatatonicBug,

Thanks again for your reply. Yes, the carburetors are supported on both sides--sorry I failed to say that earlier.

When you specified the size for the special order, what information did they need? Do you tell them the bike model, or the carburetor brand, or the hose diameter (which I don't know), etc?

Mendizale

[CatatonicBug]

Hose diameter. Cycle Gear, like most places, has no idea what an XS11 is. These bikes are too old to be in anyone's bike database.

The Stock hose diameter is 1/4", but some folks get the Tygon fuel line and drop down to 3/16" to remove the need for clamps.

[cywelchjr]

Hose diameter. Cycle Gear, like most places, has no idea what an XS11 is. These bikes are too old to be in anyone's bike database.

The Stock hose diameter is 1/4", but some folks get the Tygon fuel line and drop down to 3/16" to remove the need for clamps.

I got the 1/4" stuff at O'Reilly's and it fits so tight I can just get it on and off so no hose clamps for me. I don't see how I could get 3/16" stuff on no matter how hard I tried. I figure something would break if I tried to get fuel line that small on there.

I'm not sure what the stuff is made of, but it's stayed flexible for well over a year, it's clear so I can see what's inside, it was pretty cheap, and it's made for lawnmowers and stuff. I figure for like $1.50 for 2' of the stuff I can replace it every couple of years if I need to, but it doesn't seem to be deteriorating so far.

I did use clamps on my XS400 with the same hose, but the fittings on the carb end are just slightly smaller.

[bikerphil]

Carbs might be slightly out of sync if your idle increases after a long highway run.

[Mendizale]

This is all interesting. Now I need to discover how to discover if the carbs are out of sink, and what to do about it if they are.

Thanks, every one!

Mendi

[Ken Talbot]

Now I need to discover how to discover if the carbs are out of sink, and what to do about it if they are.

The only way I know to tell if they are out of sync is to hook them up to a sync tool. Then the answer to part 2 is obvious!

[Mendizale]

Thanks Ken. Any ideas on the ins and outs of sync tools? IE, which to get or avoid, best place to buy, etc?

Thanks,

Mendizale

[CatatonicBug]

Thanks Ken. Any ideas on the ins and outs of sync tools? IE, which to get or avoid, best place to buy, etc?

Get the one from carbtune.com. It comes from England, but it's the best one out there. Do yourself a favor and get the carrying case that goes with it. It's compact and portable, and has no liquid to spill or get sucked into your carbs. If you can spare the extra cash while you're there, get the colortune tool too. Some folks don't like them, but the combination of those two tools makes tuning a snap IMO.

[Prothec]

I got the 1/4" stuff at O'Reilly's and it fits so tight I can just get it on and off so no hose clamps for me. I don't see how I could get 3/16" stuff on no matter how hard I tried. I figure something would break if I tried to get fuel line that small on there.

I picked up 1/4" black bulk fuel line last week from O'Reilly's because I was tired of my left fuel line kinking. I thought it would be tight enough to go without clamps, but once they were exposed to fuel it seems like they softened a bit and need clamps. My wife is getting tired of the smell of fuel wafting from the garage.

[natemoen]

I picked up 1/4" black bulk fuel line last week from O'Reilly's because I was tired of my left fuel line kinking. I thought it would be tight enough to go without clamps, but once they were exposed to fuel it seems like they softened a bit and need clamps. My wife is getting tired of the smell of fuel wafting from the garage.

And the inside lining of that double walled stuff tends to flake off as you push the lines onto the barbs and het stuck in the float needles.

[Poprock]

Lawn mower fuel filters with 1/4" inlet/outlet work well. ORielleys had the ones I use. Tygon is the only way to go on fuel lines. Sea Foam is great stuff.

[Mendizale]

Get the one from carbtune.com. It comes from England, but it's the best one out there. Do yourself a favor and get the carrying case that goes with it. It's compact and portable, and has no liquid to spill or get sucked into your carbs. If you can spare the extra cash while you're there, get the colortune tool too. Some folks don't like them, but the combination of those two tools makes tuning a snap IMO.

Wow, I actually thought those tools would be more expensive, but they're still out of my range for a little while. Looks like I'll have to save up, unless some beneficent motorist near Seattle has carbtune I can borrow...

That is a hint.

[CatatonicBug]

Wow, I actually thought those tools would be more expensive, but they're still out of my range for a little while. Looks like I'll have to save up, unless some beneficent motorist near Seattle has carbtune I can borrow...

That is a hint.

If no one offers, you can always get the cheaper round gauges from harbor freight and do it that way. Heck, some people use the single gauge from a mighty-vac and just switch back and forth between cylinders until they all read the same. Takes much longer that way, but it's a lot cheaper.