Oil and gas all over

[Stuckinmud15]

Hey guys, I just started working on my 1100 again and ran into some really rediculous.issues as usual. We got the bike running and once it warms up it runs pretty good idling. When I slowly crack the throttle it runs fine, if I snap it, the bike chokes and will sometimes die. Now here's the kicker, about 15 min of it sitting running we moved it out of the garage into the driveway, I rode it about 5feet when a breather hose that used to be connected to the air box started spewing motor oil. The bike stayed running but then carb number 4 started leaking gas out the back of it. I am at my wits end with this piece of ****. Why did the damn bike wait almost 20 min to start spraying oil and gas, and most important, what the hell is causing this??

[natemoen]

First off, you have a float valve that is causing the gas to come out of the back side of the carb.

Second, If you have oil coming out of the crank breather hose then the crank is too full. IF it took a long time to do that like that AND you have gas coming out of the back of the carb, my guess would be that the gas slowly overfilled the crankcase and then when it got full enough it started coming out of the breather. DUMP THAT OIL AND FIX THOSE CARBS!!!!!! If you dont your going to trash your bearings fast!

[WMarshy]

I second that tip. If gas is pouring out the back then its dumping down into the cylinder and might be washing the oil off the cylinder walls. Better be careful about running for too long like that. I'd be suprised if that cylinder is even firing if its getting that much fuel. Its highly likely the oil has gas in it if its coming out the crank vent!

[Stuckinmud15]

Ya I figured something with the float valve, however I replaced the needle and seat o-rings, and carb 4 didn't leak when I performed the leak test. Number 3 leaked when I did the test, but I disassembled the carbs and when I reassembled them none leaked. Makes np sense to me its like the bike has a mind of its own.

[natemoen]

Could be the float git Hung up on the gasket or the float dropped too low and the needle got cocked and couldn't go back up.

Both happen commonly

[LoHo]

I had that problem when I replaced my needles with new ones that had the light wire keepers. I took the keepers off and no more problems.

[mack]

viton tips

not sure if you went for the vitons, but no matter what, use your old seat washers. Metal to meteal will find a way to leak.

[cywelchjr]

No washers, press in seats with o-rings. It's likely if there are no inline filters that debris is coming down the fuel lines and holding the needle valve open, or they are not closing on initial fill, which can be fixed by tapping the side of the carbs as they are filling with something semi-hard (rubber mallet, wooden hammer handler etc) most of the time. If you have filters but used double wall automotive fuel line, that stuff can flake off on the inside and cause problems too.

You did check the oil level with the bike on the center stand right? Not with it on the side stand? Or with it held in the same position as the center stand would hold it if you don't have a center stand. If you filled and checked it on the side stand, it's WAY over full, and you need to drain a LOT of oil out, it should only take 3 quarts (and just a tad over for the filter) for a full oil change.

Almost always if oil comes out of the vent line, there is too much of it, and that's either from gas in the oil, or from putting too much oil in the engine in the first place.

[Stuckinmud15]

No washers, press in seats with o-rings. It's likely if there are no inline filters that debris is coming down the fuel lines and holding the needle valve open, or they are not closing on initial fill, which can be fixed by tapping the side of the carbs as they are filling with something semi-hard (rubber mallet, wooden hammer handler etc) most of the time. If you have filters but used double wall automotive fuel line, that stuff can flake off on the inside and cause problems too.

You did check the oil level with the bike on the center stand right? Not with it on the side stand? Or with it held in the same position as the center stand would hold it if you don't have a center stand. If you filled and checked it on the side stand, it's WAY over full, and you need to drain a LOT of oil out, it should only take 3 quarts (and just a tad over for the filter) for a full oil change.

Almost always if oil comes out of the vent line, there is too much of it, and that's either from gas in the oil, or from putting too much oil in the engine in the first place.

Yes we filled with the bike on center stand, I will change the oil and get some inline filters. I have an octy so where should I be putting the filters?

[Stuckinmud15]

Something I just realized too is the carb seats all have those fine dome looking screens on them, so how would any particle sizeable enough come through?

[DGXSER]

It is surprising how little a peice of crap it takes to hold the float open. I have had that happen to me before.

[skids]

One other possibility...the float pivots can set sticky with corrosion. If you have them opened-up, make sure that the pivots move freely. Concerning the dome-screens on the fuel valves, about all they are good for (assuming you have inline filters) is for filtering out the rubber bits that can come from the fuel lines. Just about worthless. There are possibilities with the spring-loaded needles in the fuel valves...they can get sticky. Also, although you filter the hell out of the gas, dissolved rust from the tank (aka rust "tea") can form heavy deposits on brass components that are hard as rock!

[cywelchjr]

As for inline filters, you want to put them as close to the T's between the carbs as you can, so they are after the Octy, so that on prime and on etc it's always filtered. You can do a really short piece off the T to the filter and then the line from the filter to the fitting from the Octy and prime port (basically the line that hooks to the T now, just get two small short lines and two filters, hook the filters to the T's with the short lines and the lines that hook to the T's now to the other end of the filters and that should keep and crud out of the carbs).

[Shacknasty]

If you are gonna run yer engine more than just a couple of minutes, and the bike is not moving, put a fan on the motor. Yer bike will thank you.

It sounds like you don't have an airbox. If the mix and synch is not spot on, and you have pods, you will have the throttle problems you describe. Hell, if those two things are wrong even an airbox won't fix it, but it would not be as bad.

If ya just keep going, eventually you will run out of things to fix (or money).