YICS eliminator question

[yamtom]

fuel drain plugs !!

That fuel level checking thing screws into the drain plug of the carbs, then the fuel level should be at 2 mm within the surface of the bowl gasket IIRC. I personally would set the floats at perfection as per the manual, getting the height right from the gasket surface as per the manual, and if it runs well, youve got it, if not, finish off with the fuel checking thing screwed into the bowl drain. After all this, dont forget to vacuum synch the carbs after the bench synch brings them in close. There are some that dont do the vac synch, but its important.

[Smash]

Ok I think I'm understanding. What you're basically doing is running the bike to get fuel in the carbs, shutting it off, then draining each bowl to make sure there is the same amount of fuel in each. If they aren't the same, have to dissemble the carb to adjust by bending the float arm?

[Smash]

Is it ok to reset the idle after I've synced the butterflies? Right now bike will not idle without choke lever engaged, and even then idling low (yes allowed bike to warm up).

[Smash]

Nevermind, found the answer. XJbikes.com writeup says to adjust idle after bike warm.

[CaptonZap]

Ok I think I'm understanding. What you're basically doing is running the bike to get fuel in the carbs, shutting it off, then draining each bowl to make sure there is the same amount of fuel in each. If they aren't the same, have to dissemble the carb to adjust by bending the float arm?

Not quite.
What you are doing is to pull the drain plug, insert the fitting for the tube, (clear plastic), put the top of the tube above the carb top, turn on the gas petcock, start the bike, and observe the fuel level. Make a note of how much it needs adjusted, and then do the same thing three more times.
Or get three more fittings and hoses, and do them all at once.
When you get the measurements, (#2 is 1mm low, #4 is 2mm high), Take the carbs off and turn them upside down. Remove the bowl from #2, and measure the float height.
Bend the tab to make it 1mm lower, from the body parting line to the top of the float.
#4 will get the float raised 2mm. (Remember, they are upside down, so raising the float will lower the level)
Put the carbs back on, and recheck the levels.
THEN, you are raedy to sync the carbs, with the YICS tube installed. CZ

[DGXSER]

OK, first off, they suggest the same fuel level check for the SH models. It was the first year they put the fuel bowl drains on that allow it. I have never doen it, and my bikes run fun. IMO, if you simply set the float level correctly from the gasket surface of the bowl (with cabrs off and bowls removed) they should run just fine, and the fuel level in each bowl should be dang close if not exactly the same.

As to the fuel level check method. You need to get the bike level, ont he centerstand with the centerstand shimed to be certain the carbs are level side to side. Now, put a short piece of fuel hose on the down facing nipple on the bottom of the float bowl. Curve it and have the other end above the lip where the float bowl meets the carb body. Open the drain valve to that float bowl with fuel turned on (in the prime setting if you still use the octy valve). The hose should fill with fuel as well as the bowl until the float shuts off the fuel flow. The level in the hose will match the level in the bowl. Check how far below the gasket of the float bowl joint the fuel is, should be that 2 MM or so mentioned in the manual. Repeat on the other three carbs. Some recent discussion mentions doing this with the bike running, IMO, no fricking way. Just do it with the bike off, I'm not spilling fuel all over a running bike.

Definitely set your idle AFTER the bike is warmed up good. And yes, after you synch the carbs out, you may very well need to readjust the idle speed.