YICS eliminator question

[cywelchjr]

You can also use the idle ports to set the throttle plates in reference to. It's pretty much as close as the bread tie, and doesn't need the bread tie (the bread I buy uses those plastic clips anyways . It's actually recommended in the factory service manual for my XS400 for the bench sync for the carbs prior to installing the carb bank and doing a vacuum sync, seems it's just as valid for ours given they are the same model carbs, just 4 of them instead of 2 and with different jets and vacuum slide spring rates (and I think the needle and emulsion tubes are different too, but the carb bodies are the same).

[crazy steve]

...First let me point out that even if you clean the passage until there's no oil in there, if you leave the YICS Eliminator installed, it will look like that when it's removed. I have yet to figure out exactly where the oil comes from, some of it is the oil you used to lube the O-rings when installing the tool...

That's probably not oil; it's the 'heavier' elements of the gasoline settling out. Keep in mind that the fuel flow is interrupted each time the intake valve closes, and that moving fuel has to go somewhere. This why you'll find a light 'film' inside the airbox too.

Had this issue on my Sportster; kept getting a oily film (to the point it dripped out) inside the A/C, finally figured out it was fuel (for those HD owners out there, I'm no longer venting the crankcase into the A/C, so that ain't it...).

[Yahman]

Thanks Steve, I hadn't thought of that, but it makes perfect sense to me.

Larry

[Smash]

Alrighty, the butterflies were bench set to within about 2mm of each other. I was thinking it was running so poorly with the eliminator in cause this wasn't done. Cross that off the list. Will balance the fuel level in the carbs and see if that helps.

[Yahman]

Alrighty, the butterflies were bench set to within about 2mm of each other. I was thinking it was running so poorly with the eliminator in cause this wasn't done. Cross that off the list. Will balance the fuel level in the carbs and see if that helps.

2mm They definitely needed a bench synch.

Larry

[Smash]

I assume you're meaning this is not close enough?

[CatatonicBug]

I assume you're meaning this is not close enough?

That is WAY off!! 2mm is HUGE! Even 1mm is way too much. They should be within .1mm to start with, then an actual sync once it's on the bike.

[Smash]

Ok thanks guys. Haha she's gonna kill me when I tell her we have to pull the carbs again.

[DGXSER]

The bench synch bread tie method is the simplest. Take a garbage bag or bread wire tie, rip the paper off so you just have the thin wire. Now use the synch screws to set the gap on each butterfly so it just rubs the wire when you try to pull it out at the bottom center of the butterfly. Get them all so they offer the same resistance to moving the wire in and out.

[Smash]

Will do thank you sir!

[cywelchjr]

Alrighty, the butterflies were bench set to within about 2mm of each other. I was thinking it was running so poorly with the eliminator in cause this wasn't done. Cross that off the list. Will balance the fuel level in the carbs and see if that helps.

They should be as close to exact as possible, 2mm is WAY out, I would be surprised it runs at all. If you set #3 so that it's just at the edge of the last idle orifice then adjust the other 3 to be exactly the same, THAT is bench synced. I'd say you have found the problem there.

[Smash]

LOL

As soon as you put the YICS eliminator in it doesn't run!

Good, easy fix. Well, relatively, after I recover from the severe beating from my girlfriend. Who, by the way, has done 90% of the wrenching on this bike. I'm very proud of her, but this project is taking FOREVER. I touch it and she gets mad. LOL.

[DGXSER]

Hang on to that one friend!! Yeah, the carbs and gettign them set up is the bain of everyones existence when they first get one of these bikes. And that airbox on the XJ has driven ALOT of owners to POD filters, so give her my kudos for bearing with that bloody thing!!

Wether you use the bread tie, or the port mentioned or whatever, the biggest key is to get them ALL set to the exact same gap as close as possible. From there, the idle adjustment screw will adjust the actual gap to what it needs to be. If you set them all the same using a piece of 12 ga house wire, you would just be turning that idle screw ALOT to bring the idle down (exageration because I doubt it is possible to use 12 ga wire within the adjustment range) If you set them all to be shut tight equally, you would need to open the idle screw. Basically, the idle screw will adjust no 3 to be whatever you use as your set point. The synch screws will adjust the rest to match no 3.

[motoman]

Smash, looks like you and Karla are makin' progress resolving the bikes issues. Doing the fixes yourself and learning what makes it tick could save from being stranded between somewhere and nowhere! With all the knowledgable folks here, should'nt be an issue getting it squared away.

[Smash]

Now I see what you guys meant! Actually went and spent $4 on a set of feeler gauges (so I stop borrowing my friend's set) to do this right. There wasn't a big enough feeler gauge to not what they were synced at. We got them withing 0.0015 inches of each other, took about 20min of fiddling. We also set the A/F screws to 3 turns out. Will reinstall now and see what she thinks without installing the YICS eliminator.

I do have a question. I found in the manual (thanks to someone here) the description of syncing the fuel level between the carbs. The one problem though is the photo in the .pdf manual is so terrible I can't tell where you insert the gauge to check the fuel level!!! Can anyone describe this in more detail or have a better picture? THANKS!

We really couldn't be doing all this without the help of this forum. Huge THANK YOU to everyone that's taken the time (I know it's tedious) to help us out. I'm a firm believe of learning to work on your bike, just haven't had a bike that's needed this much!