Attepmting First Carb Rebuild

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • SFerinTEXAS
    replied
    And second is the price for a 79 xs1100 standard it is complete and just needs an airbox to start running he is asking $300 and he is gonna haul it for me does this sound like a fair price?
    Reply With Quote
    Unless you are looking for some swamp land in Nevada.
    just needs an airbox to start running But if its sweet after that stupidity could be a good deal.If you know whats sweet.
    Last edited by SFerinTEXAS; 05-22-2011, 09:04 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • XSWild34
    replied
    I haven't synched at all I just rebuilt them and put them back on then noticed the leak so I was gonna wait till that was fixed to do any syncing.

    Leave a comment:


  • TopCatGr58
    replied
    Originally posted by XSWild34
    Thanks Natemoen, I ordered the part and it should be here monday or tuesday. Two quick questions....should the bike run like dog sh** if I haven't synced the carbs yet? And second is the price for a 79 xs1100 standard it is complete and just needs an airbox to start running he is asking $300 and he is gonna haul it for me does this sound like a fair price?

    Hey Wild,

    IF you have a closely aligned bench synch, the bike should run fairly well, but IF there are other problems, ignition being the main thing, then it can still run poorly.

    $300.00 is a fair price for a PARTZER bike, and if you get one that's a runner, sure!
    T.C.

    Leave a comment:


  • natemoen
    replied
    A sync will do wonders to help your bike run right!

    $300 for a complete delivered bike sounds good.

    Leave a comment:


  • jwhughes3
    replied
    no bob

    Originally posted by forexbob
    Um, why, and as I already have, is there something I should do? I'm guessing the issue is the diaphragm?

    I've done my carbs bit by bit when the weather was warm enough and I had the time. Sure hope I haven't screwed anything up

    Bob
    Not because of diaphragms, but memory..

    its much easier to picture how it all goes back together if you do it back to back.

    you may have a better memory.

    john

    Leave a comment:


  • XSWild34
    replied
    Thanks Natemoen, I ordered the part and it should be here monday or tuesday. Two quick questions....should the bike run like dog sh** if I haven't synced the carbs yet? And second is the price for a 79 xs1100 standard it is complete and just needs an airbox to start running he is asking $300 and he is gonna haul it for me does this sound like a fair price?

    Leave a comment:


  • natemoen
    replied
    This is the longer T, I think the longer one is for the duel but they have both style t's.

    Leave a comment:


  • XSWild34
    replied
    Thanks for the info. We got the carbs off and cleaned but when we took them apart we noticed the "T" that goes between the 3 and 4 carb was in really bad shape and sure enough after we got everything put back together and turned the fuel on tthe carbs were leaking from that "T" so does anyone know where I can buy one of those i searched online but could not find one? Thanks if anyone knows or has an extra

    Leave a comment:


  • forexbob
    replied
    Thanks DG... I'll put 'em back together and see what happens. Might just get them back on the bike this weekend

    Leave a comment:


  • DGXSER
    replied
    Honestly, I have not seen the bad ju-ju that some fear of leaving the diaphrams out of the carbs for an extended period of time. Some do fear they dry out and could become brittle or tear and such. I've yet to see it, even in my bike that sat for YEARS with no fuel except what had dried up in the bowls near those diaphrams.

    Come to think of it, that MNS from Alaska that has like 3k miles on it, sat for more than ten years untouched. Diaphrams do not seem any worse for the time spent.

    Leave a comment:


  • forexbob
    replied
    Originally posted by jwhughes3
    ......... and dont wait long between teardown and reassembly.

    John
    Um, why, and as I already have, is there something I should do? I'm guessing the issue is the diaphragm?

    I've done my carbs bit by bit when the weather was warm enough and I had the time. Sure hope I haven't screwed anything up

    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • jwhughes3
    replied
    Brass toothbrush

    You can get a toothbrush-like brass brush (need I say it? please do not use on your teeth!) which is soft enough to clean but not scratch the calipers.

    I also used a cupped brass brush in my dremel same to polish off really tough stained areas.

    TomRodgers covered the rest (thanks for your active participation Tom - we all look forward to your posts!).

    Only thing I can add is have camera by to take memory jogging pics for reassembly and order your rebuild parts in advance and dont wait long between teardown and reassembly.

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • TomRodgers
    replied
    Last year i cleaned all 3 brake calipers w/ rebuild kits...bought a new front Master Cylinder and stainless lines all around....bleeding the fronts from scratch was a PITA, but a few tips helped!!!!!!

    WORK SLOWLY is the key.

    Pulled and cleaned carbs....not hard to do. just be PATIENT.

    Some other tools i found helpful..... Set of dental picks from drugstore, about $5. various spools of thin wire for chasing passages/holes...some use guitar strings, but the closest i come to guitars are the Guitar Hero/Rock band variety....

    Old tooth brushes are kind cool too. they dont scratch, but clean pretty well.

    PB Blaster is great for all kinds of stuff...i bought a case of it last year. have used 4 cans so far!!!

    Greatest tool...this site. Lots of good info and folks to chime in!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Shacknasty
    replied
    Tom, by "wheel cylinder" do you mean the brake caliper and the piston inside it?

    Leave a comment:


  • tom clisham
    replied
    the brake once more!

    The spooge hole is a common problem.

    But just as common is crud build-up under your wheel cylinder seal. Take the wheel cylinder apart, clean the groove the seal sits in (really clean!) & replace the seal with a new one. Of course, while it's open , clean the whole wheel cylinder out. You'll need a kit for the wheel cylinder.

    Leave a comment:

Working...