Update on my first bike - 11F

[XrazorwireX]

Haven't posted in a while so I should give you guys an update.

First, I haven't been driving my XS around much at all because I just got my M endorsement on the license yesterday - took an MSF course that was really helpful.

When I sat down to work on her the first thing I noticed was that there was almost no oil in the engine - she was pretty dry - and that sucks because the previous owner was driving her around like that and drove it to my house (one of my conditions of selling, being a newbie). So I drained what was left of the oil (the filter was nasty btw) and the transmission fluid (honest mistake, you can guess, but still necessary in the long run) and it was Gasoil. Now - the left petcock was completely disconnected as I noted in my first thread and we tried to reconnect it but the hose was way too tight (it's supposed to be tight but not impossibly tight) and so we're not sure about that one.

So I'm going to pick up my new battery from the shop this afternoon and I'm going to ask about the transmission fluid (which is just lighter engine oil, I presume) and change that and see what else she needs.

I'm going to replace both of the petcocks to save me the troubleshooting. I might just switch to non-vacuum, are the petcocks on Mikes XS compatible with the xs1100 F standard?

Feel free to shoot me your thoughts about all of this, bad news and good news. It's my first bike and although I'm spending way to much money it's all about the experience, I guess....
Thanks guys.

[DGXSER]

First of all do your self a BIG HUGE favor and get a service manual. Clymers or the factory service manual. You can get them free from Catatonic Bug's signature line, he has a link to a website where he host the manuals.

Do not put lighter engine oil in your Middle Drive, that takes hypoid gear oil 80-90 wght IIRC, alot of folks run synthetic in there. While your at it, drain and replace the final drive oil, smae stuff as the middle drive.

From how badly the poor girl has been abused, if it were me, I would take a few days and go over it top to bottom doing EVERY SINGLE maintenance item listed in the manual. Grease ALL of the bearings, wheels, steering neck, swing arm.... Change all the oils including the fork oil, at a minimum pump new brake fluid into both systems.

We have all bought something and found out later the PO had abused it badly, so do not feel to bad about it. But take some time to make that bike the best it can be before you go riding and find out at 70 MPH on a crowded superslab what else the PO did not do.

[natemoen]

DG is correct. What you are calling the transmision is the middle drive and it uses 80-90 gear oil, very thick. Final drive uses that too. Change both.

as to the petcocks, just buy rebuild kits for them if they are not working properly. Here is a well regarded seller on ebay that many here buy from and here are his petcock kits for your bike, buy 2 and your petcock problems are solved.

Petcock Rebuild Kits

I also agree that you should go through the brakes. These things are heavy and big and have a lot of go but not much on the stopping end, so anything wrong there will surprise you at a REALLY bad time. Open them up and clean them out. If you need rebuild kits for those here they are.

Front MC

Rear MC

[skids]

There should be absolutely NO gas in the middle drive (or in the crankcase for that matter). If gas has leaked into the crankcase due to leaky fuel needle valve seats in the carbs and due to leaky petcocks, or if you have a special, a leaky octopus valve, the crankcase can get gasoline in it. However, contaminated oil from the crankcase should not be migrating into the middle drive. Perhaps the seal is dry where the torque shaft enters the middle drive?

Once you do your oil changes, check the middle drive often. You probably know this, but oil levels are to be checked with the bike upright and not on the sidestand.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Feeling a little deductive reasoning is in order. I think when he pulled the oil filter he considered that "draining the oil" and the oil pan plug was "draining the transmission".

If as I believe then I have one suggestion for XrazorwireX.

Sir, step away from the bike. Time to study, not wrench.

[XrazorwireX]

It seems I did not drain anything but the engine oil - I was just worried since I had heard it was an easy mistake to make and made an assumption. We're good there, but I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to change all the fluids anyways. My LMS has a shop manual for his shop's use but someone bought the last one he had for sale and he says he'll pick a few up and let me know when he gets em.


New issue though, After doing the oil I ran the bike a bit to get the levels to settle, then topped her off - now she's right at the full line - but she runs like crap now. Used to need a little choke on start up then ran fine, no pinging or nothing; now I have to go half choke to even keep her running and once I crack 4k she pings and chuggs and struggles to survive. I'm thinking it might have to do with the carbs but I don't know what went wrong other than by it having a full, fresh change of heavy oil is putting a bit more of a load on than usual.

Any thoughts?

[crazy steve]

You did check the oil with the bike on the centerstand (or upright and level), right? If not, it's waaay overfilled and you're getting oil into the combustion chamber... not good.

[jwhughes3]

Check Catatonic-Bug's website for a manual

U can download free.

His link is in his signature. Search for one of his posts - he's always around.

John

[Irukandji]

I know you didnt put 80/90 gear oil in the ENGINE ? Right?

New issue though, After doing the oil I ran the bike a bit to get the levels to settle, then topped her off - now she's right at the full line - but she runs like crap now. Used to need a little choke on start up then ran fine, no pinging or nothing; now I have to go half choke to even keep her running and once I crack 4k she pings and chuggs and struggles to survive. I'm thinking it might have to do with the carbs but I don't know what went wrong other than by it having a full, fresh change of heavy oil is putting a bit more of a load on than usual.Any thoughts?

[natemoen]

I know you didnt put 80/90 gear oil in the ENGINE ? Right?

I used about 2/3 80/90 for a bit last summer help slow the amount of oil I was burning. Nothing hurt.

[skids]

I used about 2/3 80/90 for a bit last summer help slow the amount of oil I was burning. Nothing hurt.

=8-O
I would say you may be a lucky guy.

[XrazorwireX]

I actually don't have a center stand on this one for some reason - PO laid her down and removed a bunch of stuff - custom exhaust, etc... but I am checking by raising the kickstand with blocks. Looks like we're perfectly at full; she also took 3 and ~ 2/3 liters, which is what the manual calls for - so it shouldn't be an overfill issue.

She did sit out in the rain a few times; I'm thinking water got in some places it shouldn't have and so I drained the gas tank and filled it with fresh gas + seafoam and it's improved a bit but it's not back to the way it was - IDK if I need to just let her run a bunch more through or if it's going to make a difference. It sounds like a cylinder misfiring so it sounds like a good plan to pull some plugs.

Thanks all.

[greatnw]

Could be all the above plus pick up coil wires to boot!

Lot's of new people on board all the time. I know I was one a couple of years ago.

Even more guys with lots of experience with these machines.

They are giving you great advice.

Congratulations on the bike.

[natemoen]

Does the engine not have 3000cc(same as 3000ml or 3 liters) cast into the side cover right next to the oil fill hole?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nate,

Manual states 3.7 US quarts with oil AND filter change, hence his 7/10's appx 2/3 quart extra.

Razor,

Can't recall what other work you've done to the bike, but if you're sure you've got the right amount of oil in it, then that would not cause you any problems. Do you have inline fuel filters on it? If not, then you could be getting crud down in the carbs clogging the small ports in many of the metering parts, jets, emulsion tube, etc..

Just re-read your post, your Tranny gasoil was the main engine oil contaminated with gas! This indicates sticking float valve needles or bad floats, etc., which causes the carbs to leak/flood, and that will both affect your performance AND possibly re-contaminate your NEW ENGINE OIL with fuel again! Leaking petcocks themselves are not a real problem IF your carb floats and valves are working properly.

Sounds like you need a trip into the carbs to clean and check things out, the float needles and seats, etc.!

T.C.