If you went up 2 on pilots you would be at 50. I think that would be WAY to rich, especially with stock exhaust!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Does this sound off to you?
Collapse
X
-
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
-
Originally posted by natemoen View PostIf you went up 2 on pilots you would be at 50. I think that would be WAY to rich, especially with stock exhaust!
Comment
-
Taking the carbs apart again and one thing I did notice is that on the number 4 carb, the part under the float tang is stuck. ie. the other 3 have a spring action where the small pin goes up and down in the silver square part that comes to a point. This one is seized up.
Comment
-
Does anyone have a good link to a bench sync, maybe with a picture? The one's I'm finding with search lead me to believe there's something odd going on with my butterflys.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fix View PostDoes anyone have a good link to a bench sync, maybe with a picture? The one's I'm finding with search lead me to believe there's something odd going on with my butterflys.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
Comment
-
Originally posted by Fix View PostTaking the carbs apart again and one thing I did notice is that on the number 4 carb, the part under the float tang is stuck. ie. the other 3 have a spring action where the small pin goes up and down in the silver square part that comes to a point. This one is seized up.
Comment
-
Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
Comment
-
I refuse to be defeated...
by this damned machine.
So, I went to harbor freight and got a compression tester, feeler gauges, and a micrometer.
Cold engine compression test, no plugs in, no carbs on:
1: 135 2:150 3:134 4:135
And here's another oddity. These are my brand new 2 day old plugs, from 4 to 1.
Check the valve clearances next?
Comment
-
I found this in my toolbox, hopefully it's the right kind.
Comment
-
That looks very much like the valve tool. If it is not the right one, it is a dang good imposter!
I'd say you have some real issues in carb number 3. Either a jet fall out, a plug fell out, or the float is way out or something.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
Comment
-
personally id go back to the stock pilot jets
and go no bigger than 2 sizes on the main jets,
sounds like the bikes flooding with the larger pilots,
and theres usually no need to up the pilot jets even with
pod filters fitted, otherwise ull be chasing ur tail trying to
find a problem that isnt there.pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
Comment
-
Carbs can be finicy
IMHO you seem to be at a point where you no longer have a baseline to tune from so anything you try is a shot in the dark. If I am correct you have only really done one thing that should affect your jetting and that is a change to pod filters. That change alone should not require such drastic jet changes and in fact might not require one at all in some instances.
I would stop where you are and get back to the base setup with your carbs, ie - stock pilot/main jets, needle centered, idle mixture screws 1.25 turns out, float heights at stock settings, make sure everything is squeeky clean and then go from there.
Once you get it started, check timing and then check idle mixture and adjust if necessary, then sync your carbs and then set your final idle speed, in that order. Try it out and see if your performance is lacking anywhere and adjust from there. At least you will have a good baseline to tune from.Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
Comment
-
Thanks guys, I agree. I have the carbs partially torn-down and plan to finish tearing them down tonight. I'm putting the jetting back to stock until I can get an idea of what else is going on. I'd put the stock airbox on if I still had it, just to reduce the variables.
As far as the actual carb clean, I've heard good things about boiling them in lemon juice, but I imagine that would require a full rack disassembly, as I can't imagine the fuel "T"s between the carbs would stand up to that. I'm not discounting a full rack disassemble if that is the sure-fire best way to ensure the passages are squeaky clean. The only reason I wouldn't want to break down the rack is that I've heard (or read, don't recall) that some folks had problems with leaking fuel "T"s or something like that.
Comment
-
Originally posted by TADracer View PostIMHO you seem to be at a point where you no longer have a baseline to tune from so anything you try is a shot in the dark.
I'd forget the valve clearance idea. It won't be that. A valve isn't suddenly going to cause your problems. They run with clearances that are way out anyway. Looking at your plugs, and reading the story so far, I'd say it's carbs. You do not need to split the rackof carbs. If you do, you'll be potentially adding to the list of variables as to why the bike doesn't run properly.
The key to all this is that the bike was working fine until you started work on it. It's something you've done/not done. It's not valve clearances... or compression or anything like that IMO. Your bike was running fine. You did things to it and it's malfunctioned. It's something you've done to it or reassembled incorrectly, so I'd focus on that, not things you've not touched..........XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
Comment
-
Originally posted by James England View PostHear hear. I'm wary of doing loads of things all in one go. I've found it's better to do something (eg change to pods), then start up the bike. All OK? Then do the exhaust. Still OK? The do the next thing etc If you do loads of things at once, you just get lost.
I'd forget the valve clearance idea. It won't be that. A valve isn't suddenly going to cause your problems. They run with clearances that are way out anyway. Looking at your plugs, and reading the story so far, I'd say it's carbs. You do not need to split the rackof carbs. If you do, you'll be potentially adding to the list of variables as to why the bike doesn't run properly.
The key to all this is that the bike was working fine until you started work on it. It's something you've done/not done. It's not valve clearances... or compression or anything like that IMO. Your bike was running fine. You did things to it and it's malfunctioned. It's something you've done to it or reassembled incorrectly, so I'd focus on that, not things you've not touched..........
Comment
Comment