Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Milky Sludge in Clutch Cover

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Milky Sludge in Clutch Cover

    I just pulled my clutch cover off to add a proper gasket I have lying around to stop a minor oil leak.

    There's a milky sludge stuck to the clutch cover. The last oil change was a little before I put it up for the winter. I have not changed it yet this year, but I've had it torn apart and haven't gotten around to changing the oil yet, not that it would do much good for the sludge stuck to the inside of the case.

    Any idea why the oil would turn this color? To me it means water in the oil, but that could only come from condensation... unless oil gets whipped into a creamy substance without water...

    I'll post a picture of it later today.
    82J · 81SH · 79SF Fire Damage · 78E · 79F Parts Bike · 04 Buell Blast
    Website/Blog


  • #2
    Originally posted by Prothec View Post
    To me it means water in the oil, but that could only come from condensation...
    That's right mate. Change the oil and filter and you'll be back to normal.
    Short runs or rides cause the problem when the oil doesn't get hot enough.

    Comment


    • #3
      Before you drain your old oil you might consider running a little sea foam treatment in your engine oil then draining it. MAKE SURE YOU READ THE TIPS ON THE FORUM BEFORE DOING IT! Its been suggested to only run the engine at idle, not under load. Do a search to learn more about it. Some people swear by it, claims of fixing clutch slip, or at least postponing having to get invasive... Then some swear at it... believe someone wiped a crank bearing doing it, IIRC they were riding around with it in the oil... rust remember it thins the oil. Follow the directions on the bottle.
      Last edited by WMarshy; 05-01-2011, 03:00 PM.
      '79 XS11 F
      Stock except K&N

      '79 XS11 SF
      Stock, no title.

      '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
      GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

      "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

      Comment


      • #4
        I got some the other day after a very short run. It goes away after a good burn. You can also get the same stuff in the air filter box 'rake'-shaped pipe assembly.

        On one engine I had, the white stuff (ie emulsified oil) had settled on the clutch release mechanism over years of short runs, I suspect. This actually allowed the top ball bearing to rust and pit.

        Personally, I wouldn't put any additive in the oil just because of a little white froth. At most, I would change the oil and filter, clean the gunge away and also do the airbox (if you have one on the bike) and then give the bike a good run to get the oil nice and hot.
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

        Comment


        • #5
          I agree that a good long hot run is the best, easiest, and also cheapest way to get rid of all that.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #6
            All good to know. Thanks for the input everyone. It's just the first I've ever seen it. It looks and feels kind of like the gunk hand cleaner stuff and sticks to the outer parts of the case.

            I was thinking about running seafoam as I have done it in my beater car that was neglected for oil changes most of its life, but don't like the idea on the bike. I'd consider it on a bike that I've never had completely apart not knowing the history, with god knows what growing inside.

            80% of my riding is a short 10-minute drive to work in the cool morning and home in the evenings.
            82J · 81SH · 79SF Fire Damage · 78E · 79F Parts Bike · 04 Buell Blast
            Website/Blog

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Prothec View Post
              80% of my riding is a short 10-minute drive to work in the cool morning and home in the evenings.

              Right there, I'd say you found the cause.
              Ten minutes, in cold weather and stop and go traffic, in cool weather, won't get the oil hot enough to vaporize the moisture in it. ( Unless you hammer it between every stop light. ) And some of the moisture that does get vaporized and mixed with combustion byproducts, turns to acid, and condenses on the inside of the muffler, and starts to rust it out. Next time you go to work, spit on the end of the muffler. If it doesn't sizzle, it ain't hot enough. (Dribble some water if you are fastidious.)
              Now, how much more of an eXScuse do you need to take a looong ride. CZ

              Comment


              • #8
                Yep, I found my breather tube basically plugged with the milky goo after a winter of carb tuning and cleaning in my garage. I would suggest you take the long long long way home in the evening.
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

                Comment


                • #9
                  The Long Way Home

                  That's the first time I've ever seen an excuse for a long ride. My problem is taking the short way home.
                  1979XS1100SF
                  K&N's and drilled airbox
                  Jardine 4in1
                  Dunlop Elite 3's
                  JBM slide diaphragms
                  142.5 main jets
                  45 pilot jets
                  T.C.'s fusebox & SOFA
                  750/850 FD mod.
                  XV 920 Needle Mod.
                  Mike's XS plastic floats set at 26mm
                  Venture Cam Chain Tensioner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by natemoen View Post
                    I agree that a good long hot run is the best, easiest, and also cheapest way to get rid of all that.
                    It's also the most fun way to do it.
                    Cy

                    1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
                    Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
                    Vetter Windjammer IV
                    Vetter hard bags & Trunk
                    OEM Luggage Rack
                    Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
                    Spade Fuse Box
                    Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
                    750 FD Mod
                    TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
                    XJ1100 Front Footpegs
                    XJ1100 Shocks

                    I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X