Convert a Tube Wheel to Tubeless...

[crazy steve]

Just a quick 'how-to' for those that have an early standard with 'tube-only' wheels...

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Ok, here's one of those pesky holes for the 'bead locks' they felt were needed on these...

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... drill the holes out to 7/16". There's plenty of 'meat' for this by the way....

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... then tap the holes with a 1/4" pipe tap. I had to turn the tap almost all the way in, but be careful not to go too far...

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... get it right, and the pipe plug will come flush when tight...

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... AND be flush on the inside too!

I used some JBWeld as sealer/threadlock when I did the final install. Once sanded smooth and with some paint, this will disappear. A 'standard' pipe plug is just the right length for this.

By the way, the tube/tubeless rear wheels are virtually identical except for the holes.

[natemoen]

Very nice!!

[petejw]

nice work,
ive also seen the tubeless valves fitted in there
also without any problems.

[crazy steve]

nice work, ive also seen the tubeless valves fitted in there also without any problems.

Yeah, but you don't have to explain these...

[petejw]

Yeah, but you don't have to explain these...

lol

arhhh but it give u 2 extra points to fill it up with air.



tho i do like the look of the flush mount to the rim.

[Iron Duke]

Bead locks

Don't want to appear stupid but what do you mean by "Bead Locks" ? for the life of me I can't figure out why the extra holes are there.Thanks Duke

[petejw]

Don't want to appear stupid but what do you mean by "Bead Locks" ? for the life of me I can't figure out why the extra holes are there.Thanks Duke

hi duke,

heres a pic,



this fits inside the tyre, once tightened it clamps the tyre to the rim,
because our xs's have so much torque the idea is to prevent the tyre
from slipping on the rim and causing the valve from the inner tube from
ripping out. these arent fitted to tubeless tyres and usually found on mx tyres.

[Lamric]

Sorry for the necromancy on an old post but I think this is a great idea and it should be in the "Tech Tips" section.

[James England]

Hasn't this point been discussed before and someone pointed out that the tubeless rims have a different shape from the tubeless, where the bead sits?

[cywelchjr]

Hasn't this point been discussed before and someone pointed out that the tubeless rims have a different shape from the tubeless, where the bead sits?

Front wheel yes, rear wheel no. Crazy steve has both and has done a direct compare, the only difference on the rear is the hole for the bead locks and the lack of the stamp. The front however does have a different profile at the bead area of the rim.

[James England]

Ah, yes, I remember now.

What actually is the reasoning for converting a tubed rear wheel to tubeless, and removing the bead grips etc?

[WMarshy]

Ah, yes, I remember now.

What actually is the reasoning for converting a tubed rear wheel to tubeless, and removing the bead grips etc?

Ever change one by hand that has the bead locks? Its a down right PITA and you can end up pinching a tube. Much easier without putting a tube in and having to worry about pinching it.

[James England]

Ever change one by hand that has the bead locks? Its a down right PITA and you can end up pinching a tube. Much easier without putting a tube in and having to worry about pinching it.

Yes, I have... on four XS1100's over about 250,000 of use. All the UK ones have bead locks as standard. I've always changed my tyres myself, front and rear, using tyre levers. If you do it right, you don't pinch the tube. If that's the only benefit in taking the bead locks off, I'd personally rather leave them on, I think. JB Weld and plugs sounds secure enough but it would be a catastrophic deflation if they failed.

I use 9" levers and two plastic rim protectors and partially inflate the tube before using levers.

[Rickrod3]

Ah, yes, I remember now.

What actually is the reasoning for converting a tubed rear wheel to tubeless, and removing the bead grips etc?

Hey James:

I change my own tires also and have done the tube types with the rim locks.
Here are my reasons for converting to the tubeless types:

I ride a standard like yourself and the replacement rear tires are limited.
Mostly tubless which the ones I have gotten are fine to run with tubes but; The speed rating is lowered one rating with a tube.

I recently bought a stop and go plug kit so on the road tire repairs can be done much easier.

In the past 2 years I have replaced 6 tires myself wouldn't call myself a expert tire replacer but I'm no slacker either.

If on the road would much rather make an emergency plug repair than to be breaking out tire irons.
I have also read if you pick up a nail or a simular puncture; the tubless tire is designed to seal around it thus making it possible to make it to a safer place to deal with the problem.

I chose to find later wheels that were stamped suitable for tubless. I like yourself feel why have the additional concern of a taped hole.

I did apprieciate Steves research since; with bikes this old we are on our own. When it comes to tires and wheels I'm down right paranoid.

Rick

[crazy steve]

...If that's the only benefit in taking the bead locks off, I'd personally rather leave them on, I think. JB Weld and plugs sounds secure enough but it would be a catastrophic deflation if they failed...

That's not the only benefit... I don't know about Europe, but here in the US finding 'tube' tires is all but impossible these days as nearly all street tires are now tubeless. So by fitting a tube into a tubeless tire, you reduce the speed/load rating by a measurable amount. Converting will also reduce unsprung weight a bit, another small help for ride/handling. Add in the ease of tire changes, I can't think of a reason not to convert.... those beadlocks were overkill. If you're running low tire pressure (i.e. drag racing), you might need them, but otherwise I can't recall hearing of a single case of the tire spinning on the rim.