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Gents, I an doing the 750 FD swap and have gotten to the point of making the spacer. My query is would 1/16in wall aluminum work as well as copper since it isn't really load bearing? Or, am I AFU?
TIA, Clyde
Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
Yikes! That is plastic kind of stuff isn't it? How long has yours been in service?
Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
My only concern would be to make sure it would hold up to the grease and oil it will be exposed to in that area. Other than that, it is true that it's under no stress, and is under no load and so doesn't need to have any real strength. Think about it, the tech tip recommends that you use copper pipe, and that doesn't have a lot of strength, so I don't think that would be an issue, I would be concerned with the PVC holding up to the grease that the driveshaft can tend to end up coated with, at least mine has quite a bit of the stuff in the shaft housing.
Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
That is in line with my rationale. I figure to use the aluminum and check things out again after a couple hundred miles. Thanks for the reply. Clyde
Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
I think there is a small load from the drive shaft spring at the FD end, isn't there? But, it can't be much and it's not as if the pipe bit is rotating against anything. It seems to me it's just a spacer which is held firmly in place by the FD spring, rather than a load-bearing surface subject to friction and therefore wear.
I did think about a thick urethane collar myself! I just happened to find the right size steel pipe first, hence using it. I suppose certain types of plastic degrade over time and heat does strange things to it like making it brittle. Does the drive shaft get hot through conduction of engine heat, do you know?
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
The only additional force I could see being applied to the spacer is when the swing arm rotates it would apply a small amount ot the spacer as it pivots the u-joint. But still, nothing appreciable.
Reality is I bet that aluminum spacer you have has more strength than the copper fitting that I have used for it before. As to the urethane, I would not expect alot of heat to transfer into the U-joint and clear back to that spacer. The rubber boot protects it from UV exposure. So, I do not see any real hazard to it. If it is fully intact after a good hard pothole jumping the suspension around, then it should last the life of the bike.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
The only additional force I could see being applied to the spacer is when the swing arm rotates it would apply a small amount ot the spacer as it pivots the u-joint. But still, nothing appreciable.
Reality is I bet that aluminum spacer you have has more strength than the copper fitting that I have used for it before. As to the urethane, I would not expect alot of heat to transfer into the U-joint and clear back to that spacer. The rubber boot protects it from UV exposure. So, I do not see any real hazard to it. If it is fully intact after a good hard pothole jumping the suspension around, then it should last the life of the bike.
The only issue I could see/worry about would be the affect of grease on the PVC. Many plastics don't react well to long term exposure to petroleum products, and being on that shaft in that tube is probably what I'd call long term exposure, at least on my bike, which has been having grease pumped into that grease fitting right on schedule for almost 200,000 miles now. And since almost none of it got into the coupling between the FD and the driveshaft, guess where it is? And no, I wasn't going to dig it out, I don't figure having some grease wandering around and migrating onto those moving interconnections making sure that at least a little lube is getting there is doing any harm. There is NO way that I got that into the yoke without getting grease into the splines in the process.
Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
Who has Progressive springs in their Special. I do, and in the fitting instructions there is details on the PVC spacer required to take up the space left by the shorter springs. These are bathed in oil all the time and under a helluva lot more stress than any spacer in the driveshaft is ever going to be. Good enough for me.
1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
Who has Progressive springs in their Special. I do, and in the fitting instructions there is details on the PVC spacer required to take up the space left by the shorter springs. These are bathed in oil all the time and under a helluva lot more stress than any spacer in the driveshaft is ever going to be. Good enough for me.
There are many different types of PVC though. Often, it's not even PVC, which people use as a generic term for plastics of many different types.
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
Sounds like the right stuff then! Many automotive bushes are synthetic material which is similar/the same and are subject to oil leaks, grease thrown at them etc. They don't degrade. I did think of using a PVC bobbin like you get on car bushes... nice and thick and supportive.
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
In regards to the bushing. I bought 2 from McMaster Carr. Bronze I believe perfect fit.
~$8.00 a piece.
Hoping to start on mine very soon. I have aquired and extra u joint boot, drive shaft, and 2 final drives to mock up what I need.
Actually planning on having a complete swingarm unit that I can swap out easily if needed or desired.
1980 XS1100 special
4 to 1 Kerker exhaust
120 mph speedo.
1979 carbs jetted 147 mains
47 idle
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