?'s on XJ warning panel LCD thingie

[jacuff1]

Can anybody explain to me what exactly this thing is supposed to do? I put power to the bike and turned the key on, and it lit up and a bar graph thing showed up in the bottom right, but I didn't see anything else on it. I thought something might be wrong with the replacement that I had just put on, so I plugged in the semi-destroyed original, and it did the same thing. I've checked to make sure everything is properly connected. I do have a single red wire that I can't find anyplace for it to connect. It is "hot" (12v) all the time, so I'm assuming it's an auxilery power feed. Maybe for a radio? All the electrical stuff (lights, etc.) are working with exception of the horns, which are not (bad horns). Is this normal behaviour for this warning panel? Does the engine have to be running for it to work right? Is there a control module for it that may be bad? What does the bar graph signify? Battery power? I tried connecting the wires together that go to the fuel sender (tanks off), thinking that it might be a gas guage, but I didn't see any change on the panel. I've looked all over this site, but I can't find any info regarding this. I wish I had an owners manual for this bike, but after seeing one go on eBay for nearly $30, I doubt that's going to happen!
Thanks for any info you can share.
John

[mitch]

Fuel gauge

Yup its the fuel gauge non of the systems test or operate till the bike starts................. MITCH

[jacuff1]

What all is it supposed to show? And is the reason that the bar-graph didn't change when I connected the fuel sender wires together, because the motor isn't running yet? In other words, does the fuel guage only read properly when the engine is running? Seems kinda strange.
John

[mitch]

YUP

Its a system check, oil level, brake fluid level, headlight,tail light, side stand ,fuel and battery fluid level, does not power up to do the check till the motor is running HTH.....MITCH

[jacuff1]

Well, I now have the bike running, and I can see just how this thing is supposed to work. It's kinda cool, but I am having a problem with the brake warning indicator staying on. I have checked the fluid level in both of the m/c's, and they are both full, and the floats are all the way up. Any ideas on what to check? I don't see any obvious wiring problems. If one of the float level units is bad, can they be repaired somehow, or do they have to be replaced? Or do you have to replace the whole m/c?
Thanks!

John

[Jerry]

Looking over the microfiche I can't see a replacement for the float/switch listed. Having worked on mine, recommendation is to track down the wiring and clean all connectors. If you are sure the brakes are OK you might try jumping the wiring: unhook the two wires coming out of each master cylinder and run a jumper between the bike-side wires. Try one M/C at a time to find out which unit is sending the bad signal.

[jacuff1]

Well, I've done some more investigating on this. I tried jumping the front connectors, and the "BRK" warning stayed on. Then I tried the same at the rear, and the indicator went off. Next, I opened the rear m/c and verified that the float was moving freely up and down on the post, and that the fluid level was all the way up. No problems there. I then decided to examine my spare front master to see just how this thing works. It turns out that the float has a ring magnet inside of it, and this magnet apparently operates a reed switch of some type inside the post. I connected my ohm meter to the wires that come off the switch and worked the float up and down on the post. I could see the switch make and break on the meter as I moved the float. I then tried this on the rear master on the bike and verified that the switch in it was not working. I then removed the rear master from my parts bike (major PITA!), and checked it the same way. It worked fine. The switch (post) is held into the bottom of the m/c by a c-clip on the outside bottom. Pop the clip off and the post pulled out. An o-ring around the post seals it. So, I plan to make the swap over the winter. It looks like I can change it out without removing the master, but I won't know until I finally try it.
BTW, the front switch is held into the bottom of that master by a small screw on the inside bottom of the m/c.
I know this a bit long, but maybe this info can help someone else.

John