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  • (More) Rear Brake Woes

    Hello, y'all. With as many times as I've been through the rear brake system on my bike, you'd think there wouldn't be anything left to go wrong. Oh, how life loves to disappoint...

    Here's the deal- I've got brake shoes rubbing. It's enough to get the rear rotor nice and toasty after a relatively short ride. Not a good thing. The thing is, it's not like the rear brake is seized- it will grab when you push the pedal and release when you let it go- it just doesn't seem to release ENOUGH.

    In addition, while the brakes are built to apply when the piston pushes the brake pads, there doesn't seem to be any kind of spring to push the pads back apart once the piston pulls back when the pedals is released. Am I missing a spring, or did the rear caliper never have one?

    I've been through this entire system- the caliper was rebuilt and the MC was replaced. Spooge hole was cleaned out, and (after trying several times) the brakes were bled properly (or, at least, there isn't any air in the lines). Does anyone have any clue what I did wrong? Or is this one of those, "there's crud somewhere in the system making the brakes not work as well as they should" type-deals?

    Thanks again!
    Currently XS-less.

  • #2
    You're not missing a spring. When the pressure is completely released, the piston should ease back from the disc just a bit by itself.

    It is quite likely that you've got a bit of stuff in the spooge hole again that is causing a bit of a hold up. The other thing that might be a problem is a bit of dirt and build-up on the surfaces of the caliper shims where the pads slide in the body of the caliper. There might also be a bit of roughness on the sliding notch part of the pad, or light scratching on the shims.

    When I work on my calipers, I make sure the shims are clean and fit tightly, and I give them a light dab of silicone brake grease to help the pads slide easliy. This probably needs to be cleaned and redone at least once a season.
    Ken Talbot

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    • #3
      Does the disc glow, like red hot? No?
      Well it's normal then.
      It's a 30 odd year old bike. Things were different in the old days.
      Maybe the discs are warped. Bit like yourself?
      They all get hot and "toasty" to a degree.
      How long have you been riding bikes?

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      • #4
        How long? This is April, right? Well, that'd be..... about 5 months.

        I'll admit, when it comes to a LOT of technical stuff I don't know everything. It's just that, when compared to the front rotors, the rear was getting a LOT hotter than the front.

        I'll take a look at the pads again. I cleaned them up a bit last summer, but I'll give it another go.
        Currently XS-less.

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        • #5
          After a ride around town, depending on how you use the brakes, it's not unusual for the rotors to get too hot to touch. As long as they aren't starting to change color, you're ok. Try lifting the rear wheel up (in neutral, OFC) and spinning the rear wheel a bit. It won't move freely, but you should be able to tell if there is any binding.

          If there IS binding, time to tear the brakes apart and clean 'em. Check the fluid and if it's not yellowish clear, then it's time for a cleaning anyway.
          1980 XS850SG - Sold
          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
          -H. Ford

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          • #6
            Check the little post the comes from the break pedal and pushes up into the caliper. Make sure there is a tiny bit of slack there and that the brakes can actually completely release.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

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            • #7
              Originally posted by natemoen View Post
              Check the little post the comes from the break pedal and pushes up into the caliper. Make sure there is a tiny bit of slack there and that the brakes can actually completely release.
              +1 on this.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
                After a ride around town, depending on how you use the brakes, it's not unusual for the rotors to get too hot to touch.
                However, if you drive for five minutes or so at highway speed, then stop using only one set of brakes, the other set should be cool to the touch. I.e. stop with the rear and check the front, or stop with the front and check the rear. This is one of my diagnostics at the start of a season, or if I haven't been riding for a bit. If the rotors are getting warm to the touch whan you are sure you haven't been using them, they need some attention.

                YMMV...
                Ken Talbot

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                • #9
                  Did you change the brake lines? The steel line could be partially clogged and not letting the caliper completely.
                  '79 XS11SF

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