Just Puzzled I Am

[Rasputin]

Ok I guess I did something wrong. I moved the exhaust cam one tooth and this is what I ended up with. I was installing the new CCT at the same time. The two pics here are of the intake and ehaust cam positions after I rotated the engine several times, with the CCT from a venture in it. It is set to TDC in the pics and I rechecked it with a dial indicator to be sure. Seems to me I must have done something wrong or maybe it is one tooth off at the crank instead of the cams. The whole 2 to 1 ratio with the turns of crank to cam thing. Let me know what you think now.

The first pic is intake cam position after I adjusted:



This second pic is of the exhaust after I adjusted things:



So what have I done wrong or what fixes this? Do I simply have to move the cam sprockets or is it only half turn out and needs to move on the crank gear? Do I simply move both sprockets like I did before but both of them? Man I wish trdriver 71had been here today to help...lol. Just Kidding Laurier

[petejw]

not sure what u did to get that set up,
u only needed to move the exhaust cam,
id be going back to the manual and start
from scratch, as tc stated ull have to undo
the cam bolts and the best way is described in the manual,
pay particular attention when the manual states to put pressure
on the cam guide to help align the cams, they can be a bugger to set
up at the best of times.
if it helps your out by a tooth on both cams.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Rasputin,

You can still fix this without having to remove the cams. Same as before, you'll be taking the sprockets off. Keep in mind which direction you need to spin/rotate the sprockets to move the alignment dot to the right as seen in the photos. Remove the opposite cam bolt, then bring around to TDC position again, after you remove the sprocket from the shoulder, you THEN need to use a wrench on the cam and rotate it the 1 tooth position to the right, then also slip the sprocket 1 tooth on the chain, and then the sprocket to cam shoulder bolt holes should line up.

Do the Exhaust cam first, then after reattached, you can slightly rotate the exhaust cam towards the intake to help take up the slack and provide some slack to the intake cam sprocket.

With the Auto cam chain tensioner, if you get any slack, it then ratches and sets a locked position, so you will probably need to remove it to get enough slack in the chain to work.

T.C.

[petejw]

as tc stated ull have to undo
the cam bolts.

i didnt explain myself to well there, i meant the bolts
holding the cog to the cam, not the cam cap bolts.

[Rickrod3]

One quick clearification. Ras I hope you don't mind

Going back to this post from Pete gave me an idea that he may just be right.
Here are a few pics for your ponderings. First we have the Timing plate set to the T marks which were checked as well with a dial indicator.



Then we have a pic of the intake cam position



Next we look at the exhaust cam position



When I line up the exhaust cam position to look like this



Then the timing plate looks like this



I am thinking that I may have found why it has low vacuum and is not running right. May be why the carbs are so different in settings and other stuff that is happening.
I have never tried to adjust cams before so any input is appreciated. Do You think I am right or wrong? Is there anything I have to be specially careful of? I do have manuals but they only go so far and the experience of other members speaks volumes. Thanks

Sorry to high jack the tread but; it brought about a question.
In the picture showing the timing marks (first picture) Rasputin has the timing on the mark before the T.
I was under the impression you would line it up right on the T. the pictures in my manual are not the best.
Could someone clear it up for me?
Thanks in advance
Rick
PS.
Hope your making progress Ras.

[DAVINCI]

That mark IS the 'T" mark.

One other thing, though...how come that white wire is bare?

[Rickrod3]

That mark IS the 'T" mark.

One other thing, though...how come that white wire is bare?

Thanks Davinci:

It kind of makes sense when you look at it since with the F mark so close, The T has to be off to the side.

Rick

[Rasputin]

The white wire is bare because it was broken. I decided to make sure the bike would run before fixing that wire. I am also entertaining the idea of swapping the whole pick-up out with another that I have.

[Rasputin]

Got the Cams all lined up properly now. Now to decide which jets I want to start with. I think she will run a whole bunch better now

[DGXSER]

Excellent, that will make a difference for sure!

[Rasputin]

I have to tell you that this thing runs sweet now! I put on the carbs with 45 pilots and 120 main jets. Did a little color tuning and fine tuned it from there. Vacuum is now at 19 cmHG compared to the high of 12 cmHG I had earlier. Synched up the carbs, rechecked everything and even the plugs are a nice color. It even starts like it is supposed to from cold on the enricher and goes down to half choke when it should etc. I am so very pleased with the results. I thank every one for their input and instruction as I had never done any cam adjustments before other than the CCT. Still too much snow around here to try riding it, but I came across a new problem that needs to be solved first. That is the stuff for a new thread though.

[trdriver71]

Glad to hear you have it running good now.

[natemoen]

Glad ya got that part solved!

[DGXSER]

Nice Work Ras!! IT is always a great feeling to sort out one like that!

[Jarion]

Well,
I've been silently following this today...
Nice work.... And very educational.
Have to tell ya... mine has 7,200 miles on it.... and I just went out and started it for the first time today (since probably November)... and it fired right up and idled and ran smoothly.
But.... It's now "abundantly" clear that I'm not going to take it out until this chain gets adjusted (which - according to the owners manual should have been done at 3000 miles and then every 2500 miles there after).

All of you are awsome!
Glad to see how tight and helpful everyone is!

JT