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Whats the oil capacity for these bikes and what oil should i run? thanks
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2007 Yamaha r6
81SH -
With filter, 4qts to keep it simple. Checking HAS to be done with bike on centerstand or perfectly level. Anywhere between the two marks shown beside the inspection window. Choice of oil.....lots of opinions if you wanna spend alot of time reading instead of riding. A good ole' 20-50w dino will be fine, and it DOESN'T have to be motorcycle specific. Aviod using synthetics or semi-synthetic as this MAY cause clutch-plate/disc slipping. PS4933 NAPA oil filter comes with both O-rings too. Hope that helps, ride safe.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top. -
One last thing on the oil, it CANNOT have any friction modifiers in it! This will cause clutch slip.
Castrol 20/50 is used by most of us with no problems. Just make sure there is no writing on the lower part of the circle on the bottle of oil. (it has the SF or SE in the middle)Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!Comment
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3000cc (same as ml). Any dino oil will work as long as the api seal in the back does not say "friction modifiers". It it has friction modifiers it will make the wet clutch slip.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore RooseveltComment
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geez...its embossed in the cover next to the filler cap'3000 cc's' could it get any easier l?l&!Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!
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I run full synthetic in mine, 15w50. However, I switched to synth when I replaced the clutch friction plates. No slippage at all. The instructions that accompany wet clutch friction plates explain that you need to presoak the plates in 'the oil you will be running' prior to installation, so that the cork in the friction material will absorb it, to prevent clutch siezure on intial startup.
If your clutch has already absorbed conventional oil, the much slipperier synthetic can cause slippage. Therefore if you already run conventional oil (or don't know), stick with it at least until you need a new clutch. I've had the *clutch-slip-with-synth-oil-syndrome* on previous bikes that was cured by returning to the oil type that the clutch was "accustomed" to.
Admittedly this was an experiment on my part as suggested by my cousin (the wyotech trained motorcycle mechanic), but I'm about to enter the third riding season on this clutch / oil setup with the original clutch steels and original clutch springs, and can still get the front wheel felling really light without too much effort
'78 E "Stormbringer"
Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).
pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/Comment
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