Priming brake system + MC

[xs1100newb]

Ok,

I just finished working through the front calipers. Everything is whistling clean and I am ready to clean the MC.

First question, how do I remove the MC? I know there is a snap ring, but it seems like I cannot get to it without damaging that rubber boot. Can the boot be removed first?


Second question, when I finally put everything back together do I just fill the system with brake fluid and go on my merry way?


Adam

[crazy steve]

[QUOTE=xs1100newb;314074]First question, how do I remove the MC? I know there is a snap ring, but it seems like I cannot get to it without damaging that rubber boot. Can the boot be removed first?

Second question, when I finally put everything back together do I just fill the system with brake fluid and go on my merry way?[QUOTE]

Yep, you need to remove the dust boot first. It's just pressed in, so by pulling carefully on it you can usually get it out without damaging it. If it's old and dryrotted, you may tear it and the only way to get a new one is in a complete rebuild kit.

Second, you'll have to bleed the brakes. This is the process where you remove all the air out of the system. Just filling the system with fluid won't do it.

[petejw]

its been a while since ive done the m/c
but from memory it is a pain, u should be able to fold the rubber boot
back and remove it, the pain is getting out the snap ring, good
quality circlip pliers help, clean up the area the best u can
if its rusted to badly ull need to replace it.
also be aware what way the rubber seals face and smear either
brake fluid or rubber grease on the seals as well as the cylinder bore
on assembly.

with regards to bleeding

bleed the m/c first, if its off the bike which in ur case it will be,
put it in a vice, top the reservoir up with brake fluid, sit the lid
on top, with a screwdriver push the piston in, with ur finger over
the outlet when u release the plunger, do this till all the air is out
should only be a cpl of plunges. also be careful brake fluid will want
to go every where.

then attach m/c to the brake line

heres a pic of the set up i use



pour a little brake fluid into a clean container
attach the hose to the bleeder then place in the container
being sure that it sits in the clean brake fluid, now just pump
the lever till all the air is out and clean fluid is coming thru,

be real carefull not to let the m/c run dry, if u do, ull have to bleed
the m/c again.

do this to the other calliper, if ur doing this with no fluid in the callipers
or lines i go back to the 1st calliper and do the same thing to make sure there is no air left in the system, the bleeding process shouldnt take any
longer that 10 or 15 min and u should have a solid lever.

most contamination occurs when the brake fluid is exposed to air, so
keep the lid sitting on the m/c and always put the cap back on the bottle
as soon as uve finished using it.

i think ive covered most of it.

[stevestrom]

I just bled my front MC and calipers three days ago. After a rebuild of the MC and calipers as well as the addition of stainless lines I was expecting it to be a pain in the ass, but it was really easy. I started on one side loosened the bleeder and filled the MC. Sucked on a hose attached to the MC while pumping the brake lever until brake fluid came out with no bubbles (not long - just make sure the MC doesn't go empty). I closed that side and went to the other unscrewed the bleeder and fluid rushed out into the hose with no bubbles gave the lever an few more squeezes to make sure; tightened up the bleeder and I am done. The feel and pull on the brake lever are great so I am sure there is no air in there.

It's nice when a job turns out easier than you were expecting!

[xs1100newb]

Can someone give me a tip on removing the MC. I finally got the rubber boot and snap ring off but I do not know what to do next. I dont want to break anything by using too much force.

Currently, with the snap ring and boot off, I can push the MC in with my thumb and it pops back. Do I just pry it out with pliers, do I unscrew it, what do I do?

Thanks,
Adam

[DGXSER]

There is a washer under that snap ring, it may be kind of corroded in there. The rest of it should just pull straight out

[xs1100newb]

I didn't know about that washer. I removed it but still the same problem. I am pulling the rod directly outward but it doesn't do anything. Do I need to unscrew it, or am I not pulling hard enough?

I am currently soaking it in pb blaster.

Thanks,
Adam

[DGXSER]

Nope, no turning is needed, nothing is threaded. I would soak it liberally with the blaster. Pull the bolt out of the other end, and put blaster in from that end also.

Sounds like your in for a nasty job of cleaning that thing out when you do get it loose.

[xs1100newb]

What bolt are you referring to?

[Rasputin]

I think DGXSER is meaning the Banjo bolt that holds the brake line on the M/C. Once it is out and the M/C is apart there is a straight line opening thru there.

[xs1100newb]

Ok, I cannot get this MC out! I have tried pulling it with pliers and coming from the other end with a punch and hammer. The piston easily slides back and forth, but I cannot pull it out. I have removed both the snap ring and the washer, FYI.

[crazy steve]

Some of them can come out hard if the outer bore is corroded. Try the punch again, and don't be real gentle...

You'll need a rebuild kit for sure after this.

[DGXSER]

Yes, I mean the banjo on the front of the MC.

Sounds like you have a lip of corrosion where that washer and C-Clip were. I would suggest soaking the entire area really well with blaster or whatever liquid wrench type stuff you use. Then push the plunger into the MC as far as it will go and take a small pipe cleaner or wire brush or whatever you have that will "grind" the corrosion lip down, but not eat the walls of the MC.

As a last resort, I would take Steve's approach of a BFH and drive the snaut out of it.

[Ken Talbot]

May need to get down in there with some dental picks and scrapers to carefully remove the ridge that is keeping the plunger from coming out.