Greetings to all; Newby has ??

[RobMan]

Hello and thanks for all the good tech stuff you guys are putting out. I have been gleaning at this site off and on for a few months now (Old Fart!) and it has helped me get the VelvetHammer back together. More on that and pics later.

First I have to say that the tips on carbs and brakes and electrical almost made my head swim at first until I started trying to do the things suggested and found them fairly easy.

Still have a way to go with the restore and I'm going out to fire her up today. I need a couple of questions answered over the next few days though, which I'm sure will multiply by the time most of you read this.

Now, does anybody have a fix solution for the little plastic/nylon caps that go on the internal gas tank petcock filters? I have installed clear after market cones between 1&2/3&4 boots already (thanks somebody here), but thought it'd be nice to cap those inside the tank.

Also, does anybody have any information about wiring compatability with non-domestic (160) round instrument clusters and their availability? Have a pivot bolt cap and/or side covers for sale or trade? I have two good Mikuni carb bodies and one with a stuck diaphragm slide, if they are any use to anyone.

Last thing and I'll take a breath. Where does oil pressure switch electrical pin plug in? Or do I just hold onto it when I hit the "start" button? Just jokin'

Thanks and I'll keep it to a dull roar next time.
RobMan and The VelvetHammer

[newmaac]

Rob, what year/ model are you working on?
I have a set of side covers for an 80 Standard.

Why are you capping the internal filters? Why not leave the stock screens in addittion to the new inline filters?

I am not familiar with the "pivot bolt cap". Does it have another name?

[RobMan]

It is an '80 SG. Only 15,000 miles on the original engine.
Hey, I guess I thought they had to be capped. Just another way of keeping the big chunks out, I suppose.
BTW, I had real fun routing the new fuel lines last night (11 PM) and never got the pipes hot, and I'm not sure about the blue urethane I'm trying. Anybody know if it's any good?
What would you need for the side covers?
Thanks. RobMan and the VelvetHammer
(Feels Smooth while Nailing It!)

[newmaac]

Rob, the covers that I have won't work for you.
You need covers from a 79 or 80 Special. I think that the midnight Special uses the same cover, but with a differant emblem.
Watch for them on e-bay. there are some listed right now. Bids are at about $25 I think.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Rob,

With your special, did you just replace the existing hoses with the Urethane lines? If so, then you may have a bad Octopus, if you have one? You can bypass the Octy by putting petcocks on Prime and try running, and if you get good fuel flow and warm pipes, then you will probably need to investigate the Octy valve, and vacuum line that controls it!

The oil sender unit is below the carbs, near the jugs on the top of the engine case in front of the oil supply line that goes to the head. To test bulb, ground wire to engine with key on, but not necessarily running, if light comes on, bulb is good, if not, then bulb is bad.

With the speedo, I think one problem would be the self cancelling turn signals, I think they get a feed off of it, but the actual gauge is mechanical, so as long as it states for a Yamaha is should work, but you'll probably loose the signal cancel? I got one from salvage yard for an old 650, was only a 140mph, but the price was right, and it fit inside the holder. The tach is electronic and harder to replace with aftermarket, if at all?? I'm not sure if an Auto Electronic one for a 4 cyl would work?? Is your gauge not working, or just badly faded? Like most things XS, check EBAY!

HTH, T.C.

[RobMan]

Thanks TopCat and Newmaac for the replies.
First pivot bolt cap is the chrome cap fitting over the swing arm bolt on the sides and is just a dust cap with class.
Schematic of internal gas tank filters in Clymer shows covers at the tops and I seem to remember having them at one time (bunch of work went on here)...
I'll look for side covers on E-Bay.
I do have a set of 750 guages already installed on bike, they just don't have all the features that the 1100 SG has. I'd like to be as close to original as possible. I was hoping to find some 160mph speedo's that might work.
The "octy" I guess is the vacuum diaphragm mounted on carb bank and have been tracking electrical probs so I don't know if it even works or not (it's a replaced part). Am hoping to get something right today (for a change) but I am repairing a wrecked Caddy at the same time as this and my energies are not real focused since I'm splitting time.
As somebody here said, this has taken more time than money, so far. But again, the pipes haven't gotten hot, yet, so who's to say?
I have completely gone through bike from front to back. The only thing I couldn't do was check the oil pump when I had it off because the #$%^ torx were on so tight I was afraid I'd break something getting them undone.
BTW- I have found silicon spray, WD-40, Aerokroil (sp?) and white grease all invaluble to the restore. I've tried to run the threads on just about all bolts and thier corresponding fittings, using a combination of these lubes, when I took something apart. It sure makes it easier the second (or 3rd, or 4th) time taking them off.
Anyway group, thanks for the input. Pics soon.

RobMan
'80 SG "VelvetHammer"

[skids]

The bolts can be a bugger to free up. I have resorted to using vise-grips or channel locks on the heads of allen head bolts, while also using allen socket wrenches to free them. Of course, I never torque anything THAT tight...at least I try not to.