Clutch woes

[xs1100newb]

Hello all,

I finally got my bike running after it has been sitting for who knows how long.

I am afraid the clutch is not working properly and I have some questions.

With the bike turned off, I can static shift through all of the gears. However, if I put it into any gear and pull in the clutch I cannot get the bike tire to spin freely. I can sit on the bike in 1st gear with the clutch pulled entirely in and with all my might I can not push the bike forward.

Where should I begin looking? I was thinking that the clutch adjustment screw has to be adjusted.

I know the screw is under the cover on the right hand side. I do not remember the exact procedure. I know I first loosen the locking nut then do I turn the adjusting screw in or out all of the way? Do I back it in our out a quarter of a turn?

Thanks,
Adam

[natemoen]

Here is the tech tip for it.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140

Other clutch tech tips here

http://www.xs11.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=31

[petejw]

hi adam,

sounds like your clutch plates are sticking together,
something not unusual for an engine thats been sitting for a while,
the best way would be to strip the clutch pack down and clean
the plates, u could also check for the friction plates thickness are in
spec and the steel plates for warpage.

you could try putting it in gear (try 3rd gear), clutch pulled in
and rocking the bike back and forth in an attempt to help free the plates but again your better off pulling
the clutch apart and cleaning.

with the adj screw u were refering too, loosen the locknut, screw
in the adj screw til lightly seated and then back out a quarter of a turn.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Adam,

If you've just gotten the bike running, and you haven't changed the oil yet, then you could also try putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil, run it for 5-10 minutes, but don't actually drive it, don't rev it too strongly. The MMO can help remove sludge and such from the engine, and can also help to free up stuck clutch plates without necessarily having to take the clutch apart. Then drain the oil/filter and put in/on new ones.

T.C.

[xs1100newb]

Thanks for all of the responses guys.

Here is an update:

I was able to free up the clutch by rolling the bike in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in. I did a quick adjustment and the clutch seems to be working now.

Here is a new problem:
I attempted to shift into first with the bike on the center stand. The engine was idling at around 1200 rpm and when I changed into first, with the clutch pulled in, it made the most awful, loud sound. I pushed down hard on the shifter and the bike finally went into first. I went back into neutral and did the same thing again and there was no sound this time. What was that sound? When I attempted to shift into 2nd gear it made the same sound but I did not try to force it this time. What should I do?

[petejw]

thats not uncommon for the bike to do that with
a reasonably fast idle and the bike on the center stand,
lower the idle a little and do the same thing with the bike on the ground,
it shouldnt be as clunky, in saying that tho,
these transmissions are clunky at the best of times,
a lower idle, fresh oil and take the bike for a good run,
should help things.

one thing not to do on these bikes or any other bike is to force
the shifter down to hard, ull end up bending things and creating
more problems for urself.

glad ur getting things sorted.

[xs1100newb]

Ok, this is good to hear. Tomorrow I am going to replace the main oil and the middle and final gear oils.

I'll give an update tomorrow.

Also, off the top of your head does anyone know the socket size for the spark plugs. I have an 18mm deep socket that barely did not fit, so I am thinking it is 19mm.

Adam

[shadowman]

The plugs may be metric, but an old school 13/16" works fine.

[DenyP]

Ok, this is good to hear. Tomorrow I am going to replace the main oil and the middle and final gear oils.

I'll give an update tomorrow.

Also, off the top of your head does anyone know the socket size for the spark plugs. I have an 18mm deep socket that barely did not fit, so I am thinking it is 19mm.

Adam

Hey Adam,

One your next oil change if you are not going to pull the clutch basket I would recommend pouring in a half can of Seafoam tranny additive into the crank case and run it pulling in the clutch to let it do it's magic on the plates b/4 dumping the oil. It helped a bunch on mine. You will need to change the clutch springs at some point. If it were mine, and I was where you are again, I would bite the bullet, pull it down and clean / check the plates and install new springs. If the clutch don't slip under power right off - it will...! I was 1000 miles from home when mine started to slip and she had low miles on her.

Deny

[xs1100newb]

Ok. Here is an update.

I adjusted the clutch properly and I can shift into 1st gear just fine. When I try to go into second gear the shift lever refuses to move upward and when I try it makes the most awful clicking sound. It static shifts fine though.

I am going to put some seafoam in the oil and ride it around for a while before doing an oil change. Worst case, if it does not work after the oil change then I will lean the bike against a wall and examine the clutch basket without having to remove the oil.

I understand that the friction plates and springs probably need to be replaced, and I will do that as soon as I know the transmission is OK. So for now, I want this quick fix.

Adam

[natemoen]

Don't drive it around with the seafoam in it. Just put the seafoam in and let it run and warm up stationary and then drain it.

[CatatonicBug]

On the Centerstand, static shift to 3rd. Then start the bike with the clutch pulled. Let the clutch out slowly while giving it some gas to get the wheel up to speed. Then, try downshifting to 2nd. Does it shift smoothly? These bikes are notorious for a 2nd gear problem, and requires semi-major surgery to fix it, but it's very well documented, and anyone can do it.

It has been said that the XS "Shifts like a Russian tractor", because of the clunkiness. However, once it's in gear, it should STAY in gear until you shift again. If it tries to jump out of gear, you'll need to look into the "2nd gear fix", which can technically be attributed to ANY gear. The major symptom is generally described as a "machine gun" sound when you try to shift.

Good luck!

[DenyP]

Don't drive it around with the seafoam in it. Just put the seafoam in and let it run and warm up stationary and then drain it.

The only reason to put seafoam trany additive in the crank case is to wash the crud off from between the plates and to remove sludge from 30 years of sitting. Just warming it up then dumping does nothing for the clutch. Take it out and run it through the gears to put some load on the wet clutch. Then take it back and dump it. Thats what I did and have put 30K on the clock. Just don't get carried away with the RRR's nore run it any longer then necessary. It's a high detergent - let it clean the plates. Also, I recommend doing this after you have changed the oil for the first time. Good oil may take care of this on it's own.

Deny

Deny

[natemoen]

I would at most run it lightly through the gears on the center stand and just work the clutch a lot. I wouldn't trust putting to much load in oil that had enough seafoam in it to do the cleaning.