Newbie w/ 79 XSF

[XrazorwireX]

Hi, my name's Ken from NE.

I just bought a 79 xs11 the other day after doing some serious research on my options which often led me to these forums.



My bike has 24,xxx miles on it and runs great - the guy drove it to my house for me to do the deal; I bought it for $1200, which seems like a fair price being as how he just had the carbs rebuilt and synced and went through the bike. The back tire looks pretty used but still has tread and they're both Dunlops. Even gave me his helmet.

It didn't have turn signals and the guy put some cheesy led ones from autozone on there but they don't work and I'm pretty sure they're shorted. The fuse box is also stock so it's got the notorious 'fuses taped to the wires' syndrome that you would come to expect with these. Fortunately all of these issues are strictly electronic related and that's my profession so I plan on picking up some stock turn signals and replacing the fuseblock. I also noticed the front break is low on fluid and there's bubbles in the line - it still works but it pulls all the way to the handlebar.

I don't know how the petcocks are supposed to work but he said that I don't touch the clutch-side petcock at all and if the throttle-side one is straight down then that's my primary and if I switch it towards the headlight then it's the secondary. The gas gauge doesn't function most of the time and he was running it until it sputtered, which he then switched to secondary to go find gas.

He also gave me a battery charger; I don't know if there's a problem with the charging circuit or if it's just a quirky battery and something I should expect to deal with but it's not the original battery, although it's an older style that you can probably spill.

I ran it the night I got it but I don't have it registered or anything yet so I don't wanna take it out on the street, but I ran it a few times where I keep it parked and noticed that it doesn't shift upwards too many times (maybe into 3rd?) but I didn't know if I had to get moving to get it to shift into higher gears (which doesn't seem necessary) - it also shifts kinda hard - it makes a noise when I shifted into first but it functioned fine afterwards.

Lastly she's also missing the clutch-side cover that goes over the battery - I can't seem to source one anywhere for the 79 F that's a decent price and doesn't have the tabs broken off but I'm not too concerned since it's got the one that covers the fuse block.

What do you guys think? Do you notice anything odd about this that I should check into?
If anyone has any feedback I'd love to hear it; I'll try to participate and provide my knowledge on electronics to any discussion I find needing it but I'd love to tap into the bike-specific experience on this forum and it's all greatly appreciated.

I've got a lot of plans for this guy in the future if I don't need to sink money into it just to keep it going so I'll keep everyone posted on those.

Thanks.

[11Rider]

Hi Ken and welcome! Nice bike and a good price to boot. Just for the record, I don't think yours is an "SF" - the "S" designating the Special. I point this out so when you refer to your bike in the future, you get the right info in response.

[slow mo]

hi and welcome ken! looks like a good bike to me,,do all the basic things you need to do ,top up fluids or replace them, TCs fuse box is a must,,while your there clean as many connectors as you see lube with dialectic grease,,top up your battery with the proper fluid,,you may need to replace your tires if they are a few years old,,get crackin you have a great bike on your hands ,,ride safe ,,slow mo!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Ken,

Welcome, and congrats on a good find/price for an already working and mostly runner 79F standard. You'll want to put that in your signature for future tips requests and such.

Okay, since you're an electronics expert, then you'll appreciate that the blinkers are just a very low impedence load, and the flasher circuit was designed for 27 watts per bulb 4.5amp load per side to heat up the THERMAL flasher to make it work. You can either acquire OEM style signals and bulbs to maintain/use the oem flasher with it's built in self cancel feature, OR you can get any 2...YES..2 prong electronic flasher to replace the 3 prong, you will loose the self cancel, but can then use the small LED type signals.

The charging system on these are notoriously weak barely providing enough juice to power the bikes systems, and not anything left for accessories like radio, aux. lights, grip warmers or such! See my thread about Alternative Alternator Options for a possible "redneck" solution to getting more power! The battery may be weak or just old, if standard lead acid battery near or over 3 years old, then it's on it's last legs, and you will want to look into a new one...Wallyworld sells them for about $50.00. You'll then want to fill the new battery with electrolyte and then FULLY CHARGE IT OVERNIGHT FIRST before putting it into use to get the full power/charge capacity from it! Use the 2 amp setting, not the 6 amp one!

I just received a new batch of 10 fuseblocks from my source, so I have them in stock ready for shipping! See the for sale forum, Parts for sale, the sticky for info on price/ordering.

The petcocks are vacuum controlled, but the rubber valve can become dry/ shrink, and so may be why he said not to change it's position, because they may need a rebuilding!? At least the carbs are allegedly clean/synched!

The tranny is known to shift like a russian tractor, and yes, the back wheel rolling helps to spin the gears to get it to shift into the upper gears, it's 1 down and 4 up, total of 5 gears. Holding the clutch lever in for several seconds and NOT revving the engine before shifting down into 1st and reduce the KLUNK, but it'll still be there. There is a known fault/weakness of a skipping 1st or 2nd gear under strong throttle, but IF the odometer is TRUE...not rolled over or swapped for another gauge, then you may have many tens of k miles before/if it ever develops the syndrome...depending a lot on how it's treated/shifted/ridden!

Yep, the side covers are like gold, especially the ones for the locking tab side. I think there's a tech tip on repairing the tab, as well as a few threads.

[11Rider]

Hi Ken and welcome! Nice bike and a good price to boot. Just for the record, I don't think yours is an "SF" - the "S" designating the Special. I point this out so when you refer to your bike in the future, you get the right info in response.

Sorry, I read your title too fast, you're saying that you have an XS F. I'm a dunce!

[XrazorwireX]

Great info on the signal / electric system specs - I was looking into adding an Ipod dock if I ever find a fairing that I like to mount speakers on, but it looks like I'll have to do a bit of an overhaul. If I get around to doing something like that I'll definitely share my findings. I might have the initiative to wire together a simple voltage regulator board to supply a clean 5v / 12v line for digital equipment.

Has anyone ever looked into one of those Blue Sea Systems blocks?
Google Shopping Link

If not I'll probably just hit you up for one, TC.

I figured I'd shoot for something that took AGC fuses like the stock setup but I'm not against going for blades since they're probably easier to source new fuses if you're at a truck stop in the middle of nowhere.


Unfortunately not 24 hours after I bought this bad boy it '54-car-pileup-on-the-interstate' Blizzarded and it's been really nasty out there. I still need to go do the transfer of ownership and register it and talk to my insurance agent about adding a motorcycle policy so there's much work to be done before I take it out on the street. Fortunately there's an extremely large and often vacant parking lot connected to my back yard that I can practice in.

[natemoen]

Welcome! Congrats on the ride, and that its actually RIDEABLE!

I would go with blade fuses just for the reason you mentioned. Even just individual fuse folders work if need be.

As to the electrical system, if you switch over to LEDs bulbs in the gauges (there is 10 bulbs in there) and the signals that really does free up some space for some simple extras but still not a lot.

Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions!

[DGXSER]

Hey Ken, Welcome ot the madness of XS11 ownership!! It is a disease!!

Looks like a very nice clean bike!! You may have already noted the exhaust is not stock, but looks very nice. The seat is also non -stock, looks pretty comfy though, and like someone had a SWMBO that liked some room to ride on. And I have no idea what that cable running on the left side in front of the forks is about. Looks like it goes to something mounted on your left handle bar?

Like TC said, that left side cover is often broken (due to folks not knowing about the lock holding it in place) It has the lock so no one can steal your battery or whatever you have stored in the tool box. If you did not know about it, look on that left side, along the frame rail behind the engine under the battery box. The lock is probably still there.

There are more than a few folks who have fairings mounted, some I believe do have the "cycle sounds" system in them. And if you keep the LED signals you just bought yourself some power for your stereo. When I hear folks talk about the charging system on these bikes and adding accessories I always think of the scene in Appolo 13 where they are trying to figure out the right sequence and what minimal equipment to run for the power they have left.

Anyway, great bike. Enjoy the fun! And in case this is your first bike, as it seems it might be, I strongly suggest the MSF Basic Rider course.

[Mr.Bill]

nice looking fuse block, BUT to be honest, do yourself a favor get TopCatGr58 fuse block, best $10 you have spent and yes nice easily available spade fuses.

Save a few bucks and get that electronic flasher, and good to go

[Phoenix Rider]

As to the electrical system, if you switch over to LEDs bulbs in the gauges (there is 10 bulbs in there)

Interesting. Do you have an LED bulb number for replacement and where to find them?

Wayne

[natemoen]

Interesting. Do you have an LED bulb number for replacement and where to find them?

Wayne

The gauge lights are BA9's. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...gi?product=755

I got the 5th one down on that page. Bit right to get in the hole in a couple spots in there but they go. I also used the red bulbs in the gauges instead of white.

[crazy steve]

Nice!

It's alway fun to see a nice early standard that hasn't been molested/neglected beyond restoring. Looks like it was pretty well cared for, and that's a big plus.

Yours looks to be pretty much stock except for Harley Sportster mufflers and a 'touring' style seat (that may even be the factory 'optional' seat). As TC said, sidecovers are very hard to find (for any year/model) but keep your eyes peeled and one will turn up... just don't expect it to be cheap. $40-60 is a pretty typical price for a good left side cover. The only one that fits will be a '78-79 standard side cover by the way...

Good luck, and welcome!

[XrazorwireX]

Awesome - I was talking with the seller about that lock on the left side because he got this from his dad and neither of them had the side cover or knew what the lock was for, although right next to it by the battery there is a little lock box thing for your title and some tools and stuff. Pretty slick.

Funny that sooo many people broke their side covers due to ignorance of the lock... no wonder the left side is worth so much - at least it's not as important (at least to me) as the fuse side.

I noticed the seat was different from others of it's era but it's got "Yamaha" screened on the back and it fits good so I'm happy with it, although it's got a bit of a rift opening up (maybe I can channel some leatherworking skills and sew it back?).

Thanks also for the compatibility on the side plates - I saw a relatively cheap 80's plate that I didn't know if I could go for or not.



How is the reliability of these things? If I take care of it now and keep it going, run seafoam occasionally and change the filters before each season, etc, how many miles, on average, should I be able to expect? (assuming the 24k is a legit reading - which btw, is there a way to check outside of tearing the engine down?)
I've heard people say they can get 100 - 150k on these things if cared for, is that true?

[XrazorwireX]

(Double post action!)

The gauge lights are BA9's. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...gi?product=755

I got the 5th one down on that page. Bit right to get in the hole in a couple spots in there but they go. I also used the red bulbs in the gauges instead of white.

What voltage rating of those did you pick up? Depending on how they wired that I might spring for just one ultrabright in each box, but I'll have to see.

[natemoen]

What voltage rating of those did you pick up? Depending on how they wired that I might spring for just one ultrabright in each box, but I'll have to see.

12 volt. I wouldn't do just 1. Half the gauge would be dark. Even on mine with 2 bulbs one of the reflectors on the inside had been bent around at some point and doesn't reflect properly and the lower half of that gauge is much darker cause of that even with the bulb in there.