Charging or short problem

[jorge lobo]

Hello my friends
I got a problem with my battery I drive my bike for maybe 30 min and I got a drain battery
The battery is new and when I do the charge test looks good I got 11.90-12 volt in idle, and when rev gps up to 4000rpm goes to 13.80-14 volts
That tells me that the charging sistem is good but still I get a deat battery afther a ride
The bile runs until I shut it off
Any idea in what is my problem

[Geezer]

It should go up to 14.5 volts by 4500 RPM or there's a problem with the charging system. Seeing how it charges this good, I suspect you need to clean a bunch of connectors.

It also wouldn't hurt to have the battery tested. A bad battery can go flat when sitting. To test for a drain on the the system, disconnect the ground strap off the battery and connect a turn signal bulb in series between the ground strap and the battery. If the bulb glows with the ignition switch on, you have a drain on the system and will just have to dig for it...

Geezer

[DAVINCI]

Did you mean with the ignition switch OFF? I would think, that with the ignition switch ON, a bulb in series with either leg of the battery would glow.

[cywelchjr]

It should go up to 14.5 volts by 4500 RPM or there's a problem with the charging system. Seeing how it charges this good, I suspect you need to clean a bunch of connectors.

It also wouldn't hurt to have the battery tested. A bad battery can go flat when sitting. To test for a drain on the the system, disconnect the ground strap off the battery and connect a turn signal bulb in series between the ground strap and the battery. If the bulb glows with the ignition switch on, you have a drain on the system and will just have to dig for it...

Geezer

You mean with the ignition switch off right? It would glow with it on since it would be drawing current.

[Geezer]

Yes, with the main switch off... This test is looking for drains on the system with the the bike sitting.

Geezer

[jorge lobo]

Thanks
If I have a glowing bulb this means a lot of work right

[Geezer]

Thanks
If I have a glowing bulb this means a lot of work right

It would mean that you have to unplug things one at a time until you find the drain...

Geezer

[redbone]

pulling fuses one at a time can also give you clue as to where to begin your search for the battery drain.

[Phoenix Rider]

1 more suggestion if I may. Pull your fuse panel off and look at the connection from the stator to the battery. Sometimes they get dirt in there and it makes a bad connection which can heat up and melt the plug and the wires. That problem happened to me. I also had to buy a new battery. I bought a replacement plug and it has been fine since.

Here's a picture of the stator plug

http://s1198.photobucket.com/albums/...torPlug004.jpg

Wayne

[jorge lobo]

Ok no luck I'd dit the bulb test and was good no drainage,
Yesterday I got the battery death but I did a Jump from my friend car just to start the bike and roud home whit no problem although the battery was already dead which leads to the conclusion that the startor is working

[Geezer]

Ok no luck I'd dit the bulb test and was good no drainage,
Yesterday I got the battery death but I did a Jump from my friend car just to start the bike and roud home whit no problem although the battery was already dead which leads to the conclusion that the stator is working

Maybe the batter is bad...

Geezer

[jorge lobo]

Maybe the batter is bad...

Geezer

Well it's brand new battery Can this happen?

[cywelchjr]

Well it's brand new battery Can this happen?

Yup, especially if it wasn't prepped correctly before being put into use. Unlike a car that will bring a new battery up to full charge just by running it for a while, these bikes will NOT charge at idle at all, and lead acid batteries when first filled are only at 80% charge, and are damaged by going below 80% as well, so if you didn't charge it for at LEAST 6 hours (and better if a little longer but following the instructions that came with the battery) or if you charged it too fast (never want to push more than 2 amps into them while charging) it can be damaged and never actually work properly. Frankly overcharging is at LEAST as bad or worse than undercharging, and either one will kill a battery. Also, most lead acid batteries will only take being run flat a couple of times before they are no longer any good. There are things that can be done if you really know what your doing and have the stuff to do it, but your never going to get them back to 100% no matter what you do, and there just isn't a bunch of extra capacity on these things if everything is good.

[cywelchjr]

Hello my friends
I got a problem with my battery I drive my bike for maybe 30 min and I got a drain battery
The battery is new and when I do the charge test looks good I got 11.90-12 volt in idle, and when rev gps up to 4000rpm goes to 13.80-14 volts
That tells me that the charging sistem is good but still I get a deat battery afther a ride
The bile runs until I shut it off
Any idea in what is my problem

To repeat, if you only get 13.8 to 14 v at 4000 RPM you have something wrong. That is NOT enough to charge a lead acid battery, and any time you drop to idle it's actually discharging, even with everything right. A lead acid battery at 12 volts, which have 1.2 volts (nominal) at 100% charge, requires requires something like 1 1/10th of a volt over cell voltage per cell to charge (to overcome the barrier voltage), this generally means at least 14.2 volts MINIMUM to charge, and 14.5 is better, which is why the spec says 14.5 to 14.8 volts, as that is optimum charging voltage. When my XS400, which uses a similar system, had the same voltage levels, I ended up having the change the reg even though except for charging voltage everything passed the tests. You need to go through the tests in the book, and if everything is in spec except charging voltage, it might be the connections in the wiring harness.

PS, you have enough voltage to keep the bike running, but not enough to keep the battery charged, that's a fault with voltage regulation, which can be connections OR the regulator (I've seen them go bad and not regulate to the correct voltage and be fine other than that).