rear wheel "click"

[tinman905]

The Clymers manual is wrong, both Std. and Spcl. rear axle are 108 ft/lb.

I agree my Yam manual states the same for G and SG 108- ft/lb for the rear and 77.4 ft-lbs for the front axle

[DGXSER]

Well, everything I have, clymers and a manual I copied form online states the 108 and 76 for rear.

[bikerphil]

It just doesn't make sense why the two models would differ, everything except the wheel diameter(s) is pretty much the same.

[DGXSER]

Phil,

If you wanted to get theoretical about it, the taller wheel is capable of applying greater force to want to twist the assembly with in the swing arm. But honestly, yes, I see your point. I doubt it would have nay REAL world effect. It is just what every book I have ever seen said.

[cywelchjr]

Phil,

If you wanted to get theoretical about it, the taller wheel is capable of applying greater force to want to twist the assembly with in the swing arm. But honestly, yes, I see your point. I doubt it would have nay REAL world effect. It is just what every book I have ever seen said.

The torque is to stretch the axle rod the correct amount and squeeze the bearings firming in place. AFAIK, both use the same exact axle and bearings, same nut etc, so same torque spec.

[DGXSER]

The torque is to stretch the axle rod the correct amount and squeeze the bearings firming in place.

Yep it is, and continuing on that same path, the reason to do so is.....so they do not move side to side or twist when you apply force to the wheel, which is greatest when in a turn. Which is where the extra 1" comes into play.

Again, honestly, I'm going to go re-torque before I ride again. Learn something new every day.

[motoman]

Torque specs for different grades, sizes and threads per inch is so the threads DON't get streched. A correctly torqued bolt or nut will stay tight. An over-torqued bolt or nut can pull/stretch the threads and eventually work loose. You'll peel the threads before ever stretching a hardened axle shaft this size anyways. The torque specs. will also hold the inner races of wheel bearings stationary.....don't think I would want to be aboard two wheels if one of the inner races decided to spin on the axle shaft.......eeeekkkk.

[Steptoe]

the final end of the job

I have replaced the o-rings,, {with the new small o-ring, the spline was a much tighter to fit} and done the axle up to proper torque,, obviuosly close enough with a shifting spanner and a good arm isn't good enough

the old girl is a completely different bike to ride,{waited for a couple of weeks of riding to make sure} as smooth as the day I bought it, no buzz in the bars, no vibs any where

AND NO CLICKS

only 1 thought, maybe the spacer that sits behind the LHS seal was moving on the bearing face, without the 108 ft pnd, making some of the "click", because now the jobs done it is near impossible to get it to click doing the "steptoe" twist

1 thing I did end up doing was get 3.5mm section on both rings,, can never have enough "buffer"

I sincerely hope this has helped some one, because I know how much it annoyed the crap out of me for so many klms

[Rickrod3]

do or have any of you fella's had "special" rear wheels that click at low speeds
{only seems to be in them } with a very light vibration, { in the handle bars on my bike } that puts your hands to sleep that can't be explained ?

I've been living with this for yonks, but there are now quite a few here down under with the same problem, so I have been doing some pulling apart

I have found the cause and a solution

Hey Steptoe:

Mine did not click but they put my hands to sleep mainly the right not the left so much.
I recently changed out my rims to tubless changedthe, tires all the bearings and replaced the orings in the rear wheel. I have ridden the bike 250 miles and whatever it was that put my hands to sleep is gone.
Just thought you would like to know.

Rick