rear wheel "click"

[crazy steve]

...the issue of the bushes coming out with the splines is from when I had the wheel powder coated, the heat from the process melted the glue, hence the result...

I still say that's the problem. I looked at powdercoating my wheels, but didn't as I saw no way to get those bushings out without damaging them, and figured the cure heat would probably ruin them. Those are what's supposed to locate/retain the splined drive hub.

These are like shock bushings; they have a steel outer sleeve (pressed into the wheel) and a steel inner sleeve. You've lost the bond between the rubber and the outer sleeve, so they're free to 'move'. You might try 'tightening' the bushings by installing some washers on each side of them to 'expand' them in the hole. You'll need some smaller in diameter than the hole OD, but with a big enough ID that they'll go outside of the inner sleeve. This will reduce their length, but increase their diameter. Get those tight, and the noise should go away...

[Steptoe]

here's a can of worms ay?

the powder coated wheel is the one with the much louder click, yes,, but it also completly missing the large o-ring, but has the small, which would under power make the spline run in an eclipse type pattern,, which would explain the wear mark on the spline face, and also the chopped splines,, which were hard to see on the vid, the solo wheel on the bike now has a worn, and damaged {somehow??} large o-ring,,

as far as the o-rings themselves, why would they not be able to seal and buffer in the 1 application, why would they have not made the splines a slide or press fit, and do away with the rings
having the w/shop manual open as I type, I don,t believe the rings sole job is to seal, why for is there a huge rubber seal behind the splines, and the bearings have their own,, and when you look at them, they are bloody enormous o-rings

maybe my hub comes off so easy because of the worn/damaged large o-ring, maybe the small o-ring has worn also, 2 new o-rings may make the whole assy snug again,, as for bearings, all brand new, still clicked

don,t you grab the first thing you can,,
special tool number WHO CARES

even with the bonding glue in spline drive bushes gone,, with the axle done up to the right torque, or just bloody tight, the splines don't have any where really to go, you've pulled the axle head tight against the rhs bearing, thru the wheel,pulling the wheel into the back of the splines where the large o-ring is, then into the diff, only place it can move would be back and forward around the wheel like it's supposed to, powering on and off

the axle nut is 108 ft/pnd,, which is a 200 pound mans forearm, leaning on a 10" or 12 in" shifter,{ I don't have that bigger socket },,which is what I am , give or take, so thats pretty close enough for me

one last thing,, I suppose would be for some one to take apart a perfectly good wheel, remove the large o-ring, weather the surfaces for a week or two,, then throw back in the bike and see what happens,, can't see it happening, I wouldn't

one more last thing,,, for what ever reason,, this only affects the curly/ swirly/ Itallic wheels, on the specials---------

[DGXSER]

Interesting point on the swirly wheels. Over on this side of the big blue pond, the only XS models to have those is the LH, otherwise it is only the XJ models with those wheels. (Factory anyway)

[CatatonicBug]

Congrats on getting your problem solved! I couldn't help but feel like I was watching an episode of "This old house" though!

[CatatonicBug]

Interesting point on the swirly wheels. Over on this side of the big blue pond, the only XS models to have those is the LH, otherwise it is only the XJ models with those wheels. (Factory anyway)

Yeah, it seems the RH got a mish-mash of parts from lots of models, and a few of their own. Lots of MNS parts, a seat with handles on the sides, and XJ handlebars.

[Eveready1100]

I thought the XJ's had cast alloy sticky uppy things?
The RH's have low rise, very narrow 3 piece fully adjustable bars that are fitted conventionally to the triple clamps

[Eveready1100]

This is what they look like on their own

[petejw]

dang that pic looks familiar

[CatatonicBug]

Oh yeah! They ARE a bit different. Definietely one of those "that model only" parts.

[Steptoe]

have taken local advice

this is the last bit of the whole job,,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKg5up2wdSw

sorry slo mo and crazy steve, to many names and ideas to remember

[DGXSER]

Excellent wrap up. And I guess the 108 ft-lbs is a Standard spec (or Euro spec.) For the Specials it is 76 ft-lbs, but either way, a lot of freakin torque.

[crazy steve]

Excellent wrap up. And I guess the 108 ft-lbs is a Standard spec (or Euro spec.) For the Specials it is 76 ft-lbs, but either way, a lot of freakin torque.

No, that's the standard torque for a rear axle on all of them; the 76 ft-lbs is for the front axle...

[DGXSER]

Ummm..Steve, Sorry but your wrong. Service manual states 108 ft-lbs as "except for Special", Special is 76 ft-lbs.

[crazy steve]

Ummm..Steve, Sorry but your wrong. Service manual states 108 ft-lbs as "except for Special", Special is 76 ft-lbs.

Where are you finding that? My factory '78-80 manual shows the 108 figure for all models, even in the 'supplements' for the SF/G/SG...

[bikerphil]

The Clymers manual is wrong, both Std. and Spcl. rear axle are 108 ft/lb.