What is the correct float height for an '80 Standard?

[ThrottleJunky]

I do not have a manual, and I've only found one unsubstantiated comment mentioning 23mm, +/- .5 mm. I'm looking for the measurement from the carb body (gasket removed) to the highest point on the float.

[natemoen]

First you need to figure out which version of carbs you have. 80 was a switch year.....some of both. How is your pilot jets set up?

[ThrottleJunky]

I have the rubber block-offs, and the pilots feed from a port to the main.

[CatatonicBug]

Get yourself a manual. Download one or two from the link in my signature.

[ThrottleJunky]

Get yourself a manual. Download one or two from the link in my signature.

Thanks for the link, that's all great and everything, but do you know the measurement? Seriously guys, I'm just looking for the number.

[ThrottleJunky]

All I could find is 24.7mm - 26.7mm for "1978-1981" models. I guess they're all the same?

I'm just going to assume this is right, and go with it.

[tcoop]

In the supplement(back of the book) it has for the 80 carbs. page 254

The float adjustment procedure is the same as on previous models but the correct height is changed 0.906 +/- 0.020 in. (23.0 +/- 0.5 mm);

[ThrottleJunky]

In the supplement(back of the book) it has for the 80 carbs. page 254

The float adjustment procedure is the same as on previous models but the correct height is changed 0.906 +/- 0.020 in. (23.0 +/- 0.5 mm);

Thank you, tcoop. What book are you referring to?

[tcoop]

the manual from CatatonicBug. It's in the supplement section.

[Ken Talbot]

Remember, though, thet the "correct" setting from a manual may not necessarily be the right setting for your machine considering age and wear, what air filter and exhaust are now on it, what jets are in it, etc, etc.

You need to start with a number, get all eight lobes of the floats the same, sync and colortune it, then see what is happening. If your mileage is not good, and the plugs are black, you can start by adjusting the floats a mm or two towards tne leaner side (i.e. raise them when sitting upside-down). Leave everything else alone till you sync and colortune again and see where you need to go for the second iteration. When the floats are correct, then you can start working on needle position, jet size, etc, etc, all still one step at a time with a full cortune and sync between every adjustment.

[ThrottleJunky]

Remember, though, thet the "correct" setting from a manual may not necessarily be the right setting for your machine considering age and wear, what air filter and exhaust are now on it, what jets are in it, etc, etc.

You need to start with a number, get all eight lobes of the floats the same, sync and colortune it, then see what is happening. If your mileage is not good, and the plugs are black, you can start by adjusting the floats a mm or two towards tne leaner side (i.e. raise them when sitting upside-down). Leave everything else alone till you sync and colortune again and see where you need to go for the second iteration. When the floats are correct, then you can start working on needle position, jet size, etc, etc, all still one step at a time with a full cortune and sync between every adjustment.

Hi, Ken. I'm just trying to get to a starting point with this thing. Currently, I have fuel pouring out of the carburetor, filling the airbox, and possibly the crankcase. The jets are stock. I have the carbs apart again, and want to verify the float levels. The needles seem to be traveling in the seats perfectly, and I found no debris causing them to hang up. The left side petcock was leaking, and I took it apart and rebuilt it. After I have it running halfway decent, I will sync and colortune it.

[Ken Talbot]

You're on the right track then, and 23mm would be as good a place to start as any. Pay close attention to the float valves to be sure they are sealing properly before you put the float bowls back on.

Between carb #1 and #2, and between carb #3 and #4, do your carbs a single "T" fitting or two?

[ThrottleJunky]

You're on the right track then, and 23mm would be as good a place to start as any. Pay close attention to the float valves to be sure they are sealing properly before you put the float bowls back on.

Between carb #1 and #2, and between carb #3 and #4, do your carbs a single "T" fitting or two?

They seem to be sealing fine. The one question I still have is: Where on the actual float do I take the measurement from? It's a different shape than my other carbs on different bikes, and the stepped rear portion (near where the metal tang body is mounted) is higher than the mid portion of the float. Is the rear highest area where I set my caliper?

[bikerphil]

[motoman]

The pic not very good indication of the later model floats as the later floats will set a bit different when correct. When close to correct the lower rounded portion of float is highest point(upsidedown orentation) and measurement is to there. Have not tried it as of yet to see what actual measurement would be, but setting all floats so they are exactly perpendicular to carb body when inverted and held level is the rule of thumb so to speak for a starting point and most of time being correct. That was suggested to me by a bike mechanic friend who has worked many years at two different dealerships. Like I say, haven't done it to see what actual millemeters are, but IMO would be sound advice for a starting point. Before your done you will become an expert pulling these carbs, specially if using stock airbox.....get fairly quick at it too. Just for curiosity, let us know here what that particular motor seemed to like for a float setting.