Redshirt's Project BANZAI!

[DGXSER]

I do like the SS allen head screws. There is a seller on Fleabay that has a complete set for something around $16. I went to the local hardware store and bought them individually. I paid at least double that or more. So, that kit is a good deal IMO.

[natemoen]

You remember the seller or have a link?

[crazy steve]

Nate, the guy selling the 'kits' is this guy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAH...item56426ff00d
But I'll warn you; I bought one of these, and what showed up was wrong (correct float bowl screws, but the tops weren't even close). Now, to the sellers credit, when I contacted him about it he sent the right parts and promptly too. His engines kits are good, and you couldn't duplicate them for the money.

But there's an even cheaper source; McMaster-Carr sells packs of 100 for about $5 (can't remember the size, but I think they're 4mm x 6mm long) here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=b25hgd; add washers here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#washers/=b25kiq for $2 and even with shipping you're still at or below his cost and for a 100 screws..

Hmmm....for some reason their site won't give links right to the item, but the above will put you on the path..

[Redshirt]

Should I disassemble and clean the Vacuum piston, needle jet assembly? (the one with the fragile diaphram) I have the long replacement needles in my carb kits and Im alittle nervous about handling them.
Any tips?

[3Phase]

Redshirt, go ahead and take them off and have a look at them, just don't pry on the slides or the needles. Try not to drop them and do not use them for quick game of toe darts through the tennis shoes. DAMHIK ....

The diaphragms are a rubber/fabric sandwich and they have to be checked for holes, wear and tear by holding them up to a strong light source. If they tear or crumble when you pull out the slides or when you stretch them to look for holes then the diaphragms were bad and needed replacing anyway before drove yourself mad trying to tune the engine.

[mack]

C clips

pay close attention to which slot the c clips are at. Make sure the clips on the new needles go back in the same slot. If in doubt, the center position will be a good place to start for future tuning.

[Redshirt]

Progress!

Ok, I have been checking twice before acting once the entire way.

The carbs have been taken down, but not off the rack, cleaned, cleaned again, then cleaned some more. Not that I was going for the triple clean, I just thought it still needed more cleaning. The float needle seats had gunk built up thick in the shape of the dome screen on 2 carbs









This is the bike in my "man cave" (shed). That glow behind the bike is from the glory and majesty of the XS1100.


Ive already installed the carb kits and reattached the floats, float level adjusted, and float bowls back on. New jets all around (stock).
Taking a trip to hardware store tonight for SS hex heads for the covers.

The vacuum piston needles look undamaged and clean.

[natemoen]

It looks like you have not pulled out the enrichment circuit parts (the parts that the choke handle connects to). You gotta get those out, otherwise you cannot be sure the idle and enrichment circuits are clean. People say you can get them out without taking the rack apart but I have never tried.

[DGXSER]

They will not come out without pulling the rack apart, but they will pull out enough to get cleaner in there and do a good job on them.

I've yet to separate a rack of carbs and all of them have run great when I am done.

[Redshirt]

Voltage Regulator wired....odd?

Im starring at the Voltage Regulator and noticed that, although there exists a screw at the front, and a screw at the rear, 2 wires are running to the rear and nothing to the front.

um.... is this wrong? does this "bypass" something that isnt working right?

Oh, this isnt about the plastic connectors, just what's on the top screw. The wires come out of the harness, and look only as long as necessary to go to that rear screw on top. Just curious.

[petejw]

hi redshirt,
those wires ur talking about
are earth wires, as long as there clean
and have a good contact to the frame
where they attach, u should be sweet.

[natemoen]

Yup, Pete got ya there, just some ground wires.

[Redshirt]

update on progress

Well Ive been working tirelessly on getting the beast to a point I can fire it up. Still waiting on some parts, but I figured Id make a list of all the things Ive done/am doing before I fire it up.
Carbs: sprayed them down 4 times. Replaced needles/jets/gaskets with kits. SS allen bolts for carb tops. In progress: waiting on fuel hose that isnt 1' in diameter
Valve clearances: Looked fine. No wear showing and oil evidently pumps. Compression in #2 back to normal after letting pen oil sit in it for 3 days. I wore the oil after it squirted out on me. yum.
Left switch: Opened, cleaned (yuck!), and resoldered 2 connections.
Brakes: cleaned out light orange fluid. Added missing nut to rear MC. filled. Cleaned MC res by hand and sanded/brushed rust from internal metal thingys (front and rear).
Headlight: Removed headlight mounting tube/brackets. reorganized all wires in headlight area to keep it managed and nice looking (PO had them drooping under the cross brace between forks).
Oil/lube: Changed engine oil and replaced filter and o-rings (put a cheapo in and will change again with the good NAPA filter after it runs a bit). Middle gear oil had some water in it; changed it. Rear gear oild changed (looked fine but old). Pulled up and ziptied crank case breather tube so it wouldnt suck water from below.

continued next post...

[Redshirt]

Fairing: added Vetter Windjammer 4 fairing and did all the wiring for it. Windshield screws and clips replaced. In progress: cut the top half of the winshield down to shorter size (scratches on upper part are distracting and fog/ rain would make visibility low with it so tall).
Electrical: Removed a "bypass" wire PO put on. Replaced flasher with 2 prong electronic flasher. Fixed horrible solder jobs and wire splices all over. Heat shrink/tape/connector replacement nicely. Replaced fuse panel with ATC type. Correctly routed sparkplug wires (PO had it different). Replaced PO added rear running light bulbs with LEDs. New battery. Cleaned and dielectric greased every connection I could find. Battery box removed, sanded/brushed clean, painted and rubber coated (for fun). Fuse panel mount cleaned enough to eat off of. Cleaned, rewired brake light/running light housing (rats nest of wires from PO).
In Progress: stator plug melted, replacement on the way; still tracking down why running lights wont turn on. Blinkers work though!
Gas tank: Rust removal/coated interior. Sender unit cleaned, resoldered wire. In progress: waiting on gasket for sending unit.
Frame: spot cleaned rust and spot painted.
Airbox: removed PO pods and added stock airbox. modified EMGO (read CHEAP) airfilter to fit by cutting the top rung of wire and pressing it shorter as well as removed foam from top/bottom.
Misc.: Replaced exhaust clamp bolt (missing originally creating exhaust leak). Tightened a bolt for the pan under left side (loose enough to turn by hand!).
Steel wool (000) exhaust pipes (off manifold) as it had surface rust/stuff burned on. Removed cheapo trunk (jokingly called the "Hibatchi grill"). replaced fender bolts.

more...

[Redshirt]

I had some problems accessing this site to post this update so a few things have happened since.
I installed the sender unit gasket and finished the fuel lines (what a pain).
Went to fire it up with my buddies standing there and....not even a click.

It felt like the switch was stuck, so I diassembled and inspected the switch. Cleaned it, resoldered a poorly hacked wire (PO makes me so mad that he did a hack job on anything he touched) put it back in, and tried again. Nothing.
I was so mad at this point, but I soldiered on.
Suddenly I remembered handling/cleaning the tipover switch and thought I put it in wrong.
Lifted tank and had a buddy flip it.
Try it again: The starter was strong!, but no fire.

I lost all my light for the evening so I waited till next day.
Still no fire. Ended up taking the tipover switch off and it ran! Smooth as butter for 2 seconds, then I ran out of fuel. Oops. Didnt put enough in.
Took it to the local shop to have it sync'd. Found out my ignition coils are not working correctly. PO spliced accel 8mm graphite wires into the oldd coils and I was not getting a reading on the secondary for one and double on the other. Primaries within spec. Suspect the wire job.
Well, I was fired up to replace the coils and have it done with, so I started trying to learn about 3 ohm blah blah blah. I ended up getting offered some known good stock coils for cheap and I should get them friday.
Once I get them, its sync time and tune. Im letting the shop do it and bleed the brakes so can get on it quicker.
whew!
This is quite an undertaking for me. Ive never worked on a bike before so this is a big deal to me. Maybe not to you guys who touch every part and rebuild them from rust bucket to shiney new, but for me... Im quite proud so far.