Redshirt's Project BANZAI!

[Redshirt]

I was just reading that too .
I finished diassembling carb 1 (except emulsion tube) and the dome screen on the ...uh.. valve needle seat (?) is nasty. Chunks of stuff on it and what looks like hair or fine fibers. Bleh!

Back to reading.

[natemoen]

Nice, sometime ya just never know what you might find!

[XSive_speed]

I was just reading that too .
I finished diassembling carb 1 (except emulsion tube) and the dome screen on the ...uh.. valve needle seat (?) is nasty. Chunks of stuff on it and what looks like hair or fine fibers. Bleh!

Back to reading.

That's part of the adventure of working on a bike like this. Like fishing, you never know what you're going to catch.

Now just a small hi-jack. When working on the carb seals, should gasket sealent be used, or apply all the seals dry?

Thanks,

[natemoen]

Now just a small hi-jack. When working on the carb seals, should gasket sealent be used, or apply all the seals dry?

Dry, absolutely no sealants of any kind!

The only place I use anything is on the diaphragms, and i use a little bit of vasilen in the groove around the edge just to hold the diaphragm in place utill I get the cover on so it doesn't get pintched.

[DGXSER]

I do not use any RTV or anything like it on the carbs. First, I am not sure it will hold up to the gasoline. But secondly, the onyl real selaing points are the float seat which uses a small gasket or an o-ring on the newer carbs, and the float bowl, which uses a paper gasket. Not had any leak yet, and really only the float seat is actually wet when in use.

[XSive_speed]

Thanks guys. Carbs are a new thing to me. I've had many, but never needed to do anything other than feeding them gas. Guess that just means that the're great when they work.

[natemoen]

But a PITA when they don't

[petejw]

silicone and petrol dont mix,
the petrol causes silicone to swell
and causes all sorts of problems,

smearing a little bit of vasoline/cooking oil
spray will help stop the gasket from sticking
and makes removal a little easier.

[Redshirt]

The bike hasnt had inline fuel filters, but I am going to solve that.

I plan on keeping the octy, should I open it up and clean it?
It seems to work, but the amount of gunk in the tank makes me think that their might be some gunk in it.

All the fuel lines will be replaced as well.

[natemoen]

The bike hasnt had inline fuel filters, but I am going to solve that.

I plan on keeping the octy, should I open it up and clean it?
It seems to work, but the amount of gunk in the tank makes me think that their might be some gunk in it.

All the fuel lines will be replaced as well.

When in doubt, clean it out!

[Redshirt]

Ok thank you. I read something about being careful about the orientation of the diaphram inside (I think thats what I read). I will be diligent in observing the details.

Another question:
My carb kits have springs and screw needles (idle?) in them. Should I replace the old ones with these? I heard "dont touch them". Whats the wisdom on these?

[natemoen]

Ok thank you. I read something about being careful about the orientation of the diaphram inside (I think thats what I read). I will be diligent in observing the details.

From my understanding there will be a little, uh...breather hole we will call it, that just needs to line up with the corresponding hole in the octy case.

Another question:
My carb kits have springs and screw needles (idle?) in them. Should I replace the old ones with these? I heard "dont touch them". Whats the wisdom on these?

I would change them, but I would keep the old ones for spares just in case. The book says dont touch them cause they are factory set...blahblahblah. To get it tuned properly you will have to mess with them. when you put them back in just have them set at about 1 1/2 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. I emphasize lightly because if you crank then in even a little tight you can make a line on the soft brass needle and worst case, break off a needle tip. So turn them in slowly and softly!

[DGXSER]

Ok thank you. I read something about being careful about the orientation of the diaphram inside (I think thats what I read). I will be diligent in observing the details.

Just note the orientation of the holes in the outer edges of the diaphragm when you go to assemble it.

Another question:
My carb kits have springs and screw needles (idle?) in them. Should I replace the old ones with these? I heard "dont touch them". Whats the wisdom on these?

The only reason someone would suggest not to touch them is if they were afraid of tuning the mixture. Since you have pulled everything else apart and cleaned the carbs so well you have already changed the tuning of the mixture anyway. So pull them out, clean those and the passageway, and use the new ones if you like.

IIRC you have the older style carbs, so when you go to put them back in, just GENTLY seat the needle into that hole in the bottom. No forcing it, or it will break off and the tip stuck in the hole.

[Redshirt]

Ok good. Will do.

ANOTHER another question:
Is it ill advised to put anti-sieze on the carb cover screws? I dont think the internal stuff (jets and screws) get anything at all, correct me if Im wrong.

[natemoen]

Whatever floats your boat with those cover screws. Nothing on anything inside though!. I would suggest changing all those cover screws and bowl screws to stainless allen head bolts, then you just dont have to worry about rust making them stick, and you can get them off next time!